2000 Sea Ray 410 survey results are in. Couple of minor concerns..

MJ Anchors

New Member
Jan 31, 2018
22
Red Wing
Boat Info
410DA
Engines
7.4
Had the boat surveyed this week and have a couple of questions for the experts here...

Engine: T-7.4L mpi Horizon Mercruisers 380 hp (850 hours each)
Port Eng compression: hi 120, low 115
STBD compression: hi 120, low 110
Based on a tech bulletin I read Mercury states anything above 100 PSI is acceptable.
Engines started easily and ran smooth, v-drives were very smooth too.

I believe the engines are in tolerable range any feedback/concerns from the 7.4 L owners?



Moisture readings (Sovereign Moisture Meter): one elevated moisture reading of 17% around anchor capstan and bow cleat (but within tolerable range according to surveyor). Every where else on the boat the moisture level was the middle of the green band (4-7%) even around the portals and windshield.

I've read plenty about water intrusion issues on this site. At what % of moisture do you start getting concerned and should I reseal the grp around the capstan ASAP?

Recommendations for repair from survey:
Service AC units - they were weak but ran cold.
Cruise air Model SLX12M29, SLX7M25

Any idea on the cost of two AC units on a 2000 410 DA or recharge service?

I really appreciate all of the information I have gained from this site! I believe I will have a new to me boat next weekend...

THANK YOU!!!

PLUS the hydraulic swim platform worked ;-)
 
Engine: T-7.4L mpi Horizon Mercruisers 380 hp (850 hours each)
Port Eng compression: hi 120, low 115
STBD compression: hi 120, low 110

When was the compression test run, cold motor or post sea-trial?
 
Pre trial - the engines were run for some time at idle speed at the slip and the test took about two hours.
 
Regarding ACs.....I assume that the surveyor turned them on, they blew chilled air, but not cold, correct? If so, you should check the Hi/Lo side of the compressor with AC gauges (just like it's done at home) and adjust freon (or whichever refrigerant is used) accordingly. Let the ACs run for a day or two, and then recheck the pressures. You don't want to go into a new to you boat with a leaking system. Problems can be masked by charging a system just prior to a survey. Ask me how I know.

Regarding costs: 12,000 BTU AC, new controller: Parts: $3,040 Labor: $1,500
Marina Rates.
 
I'd personally want the advice of someone familiar with repairing wet decks before making a deal. Figure out how fast and how far can you expect that moisture to migrate. I'd also want to get a quote for a repair of only the affected area, if feasible.

Full deck repairs for moisture (done right) cost a whole heap of money. The prior owner of my 340 paid $14k to do the job...
 
I am a broker, so don't listen to me. You are looking at a 18 year old boat. So, it's not new. Your engine survey came back great. AC's are cold and recommend service, could just mean cleaning coils and water lines. Moisture levels are acceptable. If you are happy with the boat and the price you negotiated, pull the trigger. Keep in mind everything works today on a boat, doesn't mean it will all work tomorrow. My $.02
 
I agree with bahamabreisus, my boat was 10 years old, as soon as I started running it every other week, issues started popping up. It will happen, if not now, eventually. If you love boating and enjoy it, the problems won’t cause you much grief.
 
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Sounds to me like a pretty decent boat with almost no issues. If the price is fair buy the boat.
 
The deck is not wet enough to worry about. I assume the surveyor did a percussion test also?
Pull the hardware, re-bed and enjoy the boat!
 
Well you know what opinions are like but here is mine.

The wet core IS an issue. It will NOT go away or fix itself, it will get worse. So you need to adress that. If you seal the area where the moisture intrusion is occurring you are just trapping the moisture in the core, it will rot, spread and show on the survey when you sell the vessel. To fix it the core must be removed and replaced and of course the source of intrusion repaired. The cost you should get from a reputable fiberglass shop in your area because it’s all over the board. Locally, this repair is under 3000.00 worst case but that means nothing because it’s Texas.

The ac’s can easily be replaced as they are self contained units. If you can replace and AC wire and 2 5/8” hoses then there is no labor involved. The best price I have found is Citi Marine on the net. Cost wise it depends on the BTU of your units, I am a believer of the dometic turbo units and complete replacement would be around 5k for both.

The survey sounds great for this vintage of boat! Congrats and looking forward to hearing from you!

Josh
 
Sea Ray usually has a solid wood core (usually 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood) around the windlass mount, not a balsa core. How far away from the windlass the plywood runs is model specific. The area around the windlass frequently reads high on a moisture meter because a wet line runs thru the deck and into the anchor locker at that point. The usual repair is to remove the windlass, dry the plywood then coat/seal the exposed wood with West Systems Epoxy or Polyester Resin. Get it dry and seal it and you will never have to deal with wood rot.
 
Sea Ray usually has a solid wood core (usually 2 layers of 3/4" marine plywood) around the windlass mount, not a balsa core. How far away from the windlass the plywood runs is model specific. The area around the windlass frequently reads high on a moisture meter because a wet line runs thru the deck and into the anchor locker at that point. The usual repair is to remove the windlass, dry the plywood then coat/seal the exposed wood with West Systems Epoxy or Polyester Resin. Get it dry and seal it and you will never have to deal with wood rot.

I agree completely. My 400 DA had these types of moisture readings around the windless and the, very experienced surveyor stated this is very typical for SR boats (actually all boats). Survey sounds like a nice boat!
 

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