kysearay
Active Member
OK question for this one - is the cabin key universal? The PO couldnt find it and I am having a hard time finding a replacement!!
Thanks
chris
420 DA Thread
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OK question for this one - is the cabin key universal? The PO couldnt find it and I am having a hard time finding a replacement!!
Thanks
chris
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
I put down some blue painters tape, marked on the tape where I wanted the grip tape to go, peeled the blue tape off and played on the grip tape, then cut on the lines I made.
The grip tape has sticky back to it. Just peel off the back and put down like a sticker. I didn't use a roller like they suggest, I just put on my flippy floppies and walked on them for a few minutes.
Mightychan
Member
I see a 12v outlet switch on the power panel, but I am only seeing one 12v outlet on the boat, at the helm, which is hot when the starboard batteries are energized. Are there some 12v outlets on the boat that I haven't found? Thanks, all.
Jaybeaux
Well-Known Member
- Jan 3, 2016
- 2,046
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 48
Naught On Call
- Engines
- Cummins QSC-540s with V-Drives
11 KW Onan Genset
Mightychan: I believe that there is one in the cabinet to the forward side of the sink in the Galley.
brewster16
Well-Known Member
Master bedroom below the AC panel has one as does the master head inside the cabinet
hynespa
Well-Known Member
- Jun 7, 2010
- 314
- Boat Info
- 2005 420 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-VD-8.1 S HO MerCruiser (T-420 hp)
There is a 12v outlet in the leftmost upper cabinet in the Galley, above the stove. There is also a 110v outlet in that cabinet as well.
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
Lies! Maybe a mod by the PO? I wish i had one in the master.
hynespa
Well-Known Member
- Jun 7, 2010
- 314
- Boat Info
- 2005 420 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-VD-8.1 S HO MerCruiser (T-420 hp)
Hi Chris,
Here is a close up of my cabin key.
. The PO only had one. I have a 2005, so I went to the parts manual and found this part listed:1472851 KEY, BLANK TRIOVING LOCKSET (#3312-V)
I called the Sea Ray dealer in Orange County, and they can order the blanks for me for $16.26 each. Hopefully they will come in this week. My plan is to take the original key and the blanks to our local locksmith and hopefully get spare keys made.
My suggestion is to order some blanks from your local dealer. When the blanks come in make sure they work (i.e. physically able to slide into the lock). Then remove your lock from the boat, and bring the lock and blanks to a good lock smith (not a Home Depot key jockey but a true locksmith that has their own shop). They can normally "read" the pins in the cylinder and can make a key for you from the pin readings.
Gook luck and let us know how it turns out! I will do the same once I get the blanks and hopefully make them into spare keys!
Chris - one return favor. The PO on my boat lost the glove box key. I tried to order a replacement "1781340 KEY, GLOVEBOX " but the Sea Ray dealer said they are no longer made. Could you PM me a photo of your Glovebox key (both sides). I would love to get a replacement made.
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
Does anyone know what this lower raised section is for? I keep getting water in there and the only way to get it out is the round access port on top. There are two weep holes at the front and rear of it which I tried caulking up (see the white blob), but I still got water in there! I see no way for water to get in there other than the two weep holes at the bottom (which I caulked), there are two weep holes at the top, and an inspection hole. Water doesn't get that deep in there, that it can come in from the top. Is there somewhere else it may be getting in that I failed to notice? Drives me insane because the water can't get out easily and it just sits in there to get rank.
Thanks!
Thanks!
kysearay
Active Member
Thank you so much for the info!! I will check if I have the key and do just that! My PO didnt really leave much for me, key wise. I will check through the boat and get back to you.
thanks again.
chris
Woody
Well-Known Member
I don't have that inspection hole or the little holes in mine. What do you have between the stringers on the foreward end, looks like a battery hold down in the pic. On my boat all that's there is a bilge pump and float. If water is getting inside that raised area I'd think it's coming from mount screws or something near that end where you can't see good.
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
Here's the forward end. Yeah, I have my bow thruster batteries up there. You can see the other small hole I caulked right below the float switch. There's the other week hole on the top left of the bump. There may be other holes under the batteries, but wayer never gets that high in there that it would go in there. Maybe it just sloshes around in there and flows over?
+1... Mine is solid as well...That access hole looks like it was added... I have the same sump forward of the raised area. Have you looked around what looks to be a battery box. That small pocket will hold water. If that's a battery was it added later?
That helps... Aft of the float and to the left that black area... I had something similar on another Sea Ray where it wasn't sealed with fiberglass and gel coat and let water pass thru.... That crease where the raise section starts might be the problem ....something to check closely
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
Cool. Will take a closer look next time I'm there. Thanks.
hynespa
Well-Known Member
- Jun 7, 2010
- 314
- Boat Info
- 2005 420 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-VD-8.1 S HO MerCruiser (T-420 hp)
I replaced the 3 CO detectors in my 42 Sundancer this week. I just bought the boat and the survey noted they were expired / non functioning. I lucked out because West Marine is having a sale on the replacement model (CMD5-MD) this week - they are on sale for $79 (normal WM price is $99).
My 2005 42DA came with the Fireboy-Xintex CMD4 model which has been superseded by the CMD5 model. This model fits in the same screw holes as the old one, but you will have to cut the wires on the old one, and splice the wires on the new one.
Page 132 of the owners manual shows that there are (hidden) automotive type blade fuses for the CO detectors:
Since I didn't want to try to find them (I believe I would have had to unscrew the main DC switch panel to get to them), I figured out through trial and error that I could also cut power to them by turning off the Port Battery Solenoid:
Once the power was off, I was able to unscrew each detector from the wall, and pull out anywhere from 3-6" of wire from the wall. I stripped the wires, and used these Type B gel filled connectors to join the wires:
I wrapped these connectors and the wires with electrical tape to further strengthen the joint.
Here are pics of each replacement CO detector, along with comments:
SALON:
I chose a black CO detector here to better match the existing switches (the original detector was white), etc. I had no problem feeding the wire, and connectors back through the hole and then screwing the new detector to the wall.
MID STATEROOM:
I did a white CO detector here since the upholstery on the wall was white. Feeding the wiring and connectors back through the hole was a little more challenging, but still fairly easy.
MASTER STATEROOM:
I was going to go with another white detector here, however West Marine only had black ones left - and I didn't feel like waiting another couple days for them to get in additional. This was the most challenging. The wires run right under the upholstery, so there was no place to really feed the excess wire. As a result if you run your hand over the upholstery above the CO detector, it will fee lumpy as the wires are right under. If I were to do it over, I would try to cut off more wire so there was not as much excess.
OTHER NOTES:
1) The CMD5 models consume much less electricity than the old CMD4 models.
2) The CMD4 models had an always on green power light. On the CMD5 model, the light blinks green briefly once every 3 minutes. The green blink is so faint, I don't think it will bother anybody during nighty night time.
My 2005 42DA came with the Fireboy-Xintex CMD4 model which has been superseded by the CMD5 model. This model fits in the same screw holes as the old one, but you will have to cut the wires on the old one, and splice the wires on the new one.
Page 132 of the owners manual shows that there are (hidden) automotive type blade fuses for the CO detectors:
Since I didn't want to try to find them (I believe I would have had to unscrew the main DC switch panel to get to them), I figured out through trial and error that I could also cut power to them by turning off the Port Battery Solenoid:
Once the power was off, I was able to unscrew each detector from the wall, and pull out anywhere from 3-6" of wire from the wall. I stripped the wires, and used these Type B gel filled connectors to join the wires:
I wrapped these connectors and the wires with electrical tape to further strengthen the joint.Here are pics of each replacement CO detector, along with comments:
SALON:
I chose a black CO detector here to better match the existing switches (the original detector was white), etc. I had no problem feeding the wire, and connectors back through the hole and then screwing the new detector to the wall.MID STATEROOM:
I did a white CO detector here since the upholstery on the wall was white. Feeding the wiring and connectors back through the hole was a little more challenging, but still fairly easy.MASTER STATEROOM:
I was going to go with another white detector here, however West Marine only had black ones left - and I didn't feel like waiting another couple days for them to get in additional. This was the most challenging. The wires run right under the upholstery, so there was no place to really feed the excess wire. As a result if you run your hand over the upholstery above the CO detector, it will fee lumpy as the wires are right under. If I were to do it over, I would try to cut off more wire so there was not as much excess.OTHER NOTES:
1) The CMD5 models consume much less electricity than the old CMD4 models.
2) The CMD4 models had an always on green power light. On the CMD5 model, the light blinks green briefly once every 3 minutes. The green blink is so faint, I don't think it will bother anybody during nighty night time.
hynespa
Well-Known Member
- Jun 7, 2010
- 314
- Boat Info
- 2005 420 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-VD-8.1 S HO MerCruiser (T-420 hp)
I forgot to include a pic of the CO detector box - it is confusing because the battery and hard wired boxes are almost exactly the same. Make sure you get the one that says "12/24V DC". Also the black ones are in boxes with a white picture:
The cabin key for most of us is an "Ilco T06". I bought the blanks at my friendly MarineMax parts department for $16 each. Brought them to a local locksmith who had them hanging behind the counter. His price...$5.75 each. The following pic from top to bottom...the new key, the MarineMax blank w their part number and another key that was in the pile of keys that came with the boat.
importmonkey
Opinionated Member
- Jul 9, 2015
- 1,056
- Boat Info
- 2005 260DA (sold)
2007 44DA (sold)
1989/2015 Hatteras 65c
- Engines
- 12v92TA
Had a leak to the water heater. Since I was down there, I decided to replace all three connections to the water heater. Since I was doing all three, why not put a bypass in. 
now, no leaks and easier come winter.
Also added a length of hose from the water heater drain to make draining a little dryer.
now, no leaks and easier come winter.Also added a length of hose from the water heater drain to make draining a little dryer.
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