460 DA Owners Thread

I don’t remember the size, but whatever I took out I matched up. Yes I changed both sides to stainless but... if I had to do it over again, I think I would have had a fiberglass guy mold the ones on the topsides so the water didn’t have anywhere to collect. The stainless ones still have a lip and water still sits in there and I hate that. I spoke to a local fiberglass guy, he said 200 each and he could make them like a funnel and smooth so nothing could collect in there. To me that’s the way to go.
 
I saw your pictures of the ones on the side. Would you mind posting a picture, whenever you get to take one, of the fittings you used on the deck?
 
Spring has sprung (despite the snow on the ground when I woke up this morning)!
20180410_112120.jpg
 
I don’t remember the size, but whatever I took out I matched up. Yes I changed both sides to stainless but... if I had to do it over again, I think I would have had a fiberglass guy mold the ones on the topsides so the water didn’t have anywhere to collect. The stainless ones still have a lip and water still sits in there and I hate that. I spoke to a local fiberglass guy, he said 200 each and he could make them like a funnel and smooth so nothing could collect in there. To me that’s the way to go.

I changed them out this winter as well. Here is what I used and they are 1-1/2". This was not a "fun" job! The port side drain is a real bear to get at with all the windlass wires situated right there. If I had 1 more joint in my forearm it would have been easier. The other issue was that these new SS parts have a longer shaft than the original plastic which makes the connecting pipe run a lot shorter. Be patient, it will go in and look a lot better than the dried and checked factory plastic ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HC6XLU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree, this should be molded in fiberglass for better water drainage. The new SS through hull has a slightly higher lip than the plastic which can trap a little more water. Unfortunately I had my fiberglass guy work on my bow last year and never thought of having that done. I wish I could get that done for $200 ea!!! LOL My fiberglass guy is incredible and I know it will be perfect when it's done, but it will cost a "boat buck". :)

I would recommend getting a deep well socket and cutting a groove in each side that will align inside the new through hull. This will allow you to tighten it better or at least get a firm hold on it while someone is tightening the nut in the anchor locker. I do not know what the inner dimension of the through hull is, sorry. (my buddy did this for a generator through hull he needed to replace on his cruiser yacht...I thought he was a freakin genius when I saw what he did with that socket...LOL)
 
They are maxwell. I can’t remember the part number off hand. There was a thread in here about them for a while. I got mine from fisheries supply.

What’s up with the power connection on your bow?
 
They are maxwell. I can’t remember the part number off hand. There was a thread in here about them for a while. I got mine from fisheries supply.

What’s up with the power connection on your bow?

The power connection....Our boating style is to bow in at nearly every harbor we travel to...also in our home port we must bow in. I hated running 75'-90' of power cable down the dock to the transom, hauling it harbor to harbor etc. So, I had a marine electrician rig me up with a bow shorepower connection. It is a really sweet hook up! We have a switch panel in the salon to select the bow or stern power source.

I got the idea last summer when a brand new 50' Sea Ray was in Traverse City. He had the bow power connection added at the factory when he ordered his boat, so I can't claim rights to the idea...lol. All he needed was a 25' cord to reach the power pedestal...which is a lot lighter to haul around than the 50' and 75' PLUS a lot of times the additional 12'.

I didn't want to install the Glendinning system as it takes up so much room in the engine compartment so this was a nice and simple solution. Again, it's just our personal preference on how we like to dock, and bow in is our preferred method. We like our privacy when enjoying the back deck and the scenery is usually better that way too. :)
 
That’s a great idea. It’s almost impossible to bow in where we are so I hadn’t given it much thought.
 
Sunday while helping a friend clean his strainer basket for his AC I dropped it in the lake. I ordered one but it is the wrong size I had a picture of the decal and it says the strainer unit was a 858E but when I ordered what I thought was the correct basket it was a smaller diameter. Anybody have a clue the size or model strainer basket.

Thanks
Phillip
 
I’m assuming you have a perko strainer. I think they are 458, all you need is the number and the height, call perko and they will give you the number of the strainer.
 
Has anyone with a 460 looked into changing the configuration of the various electrical points in their boat. My boat (European spec from new) has Vimar fittings throughout.

I have just ordered a couple of USB Charging sockets that will slot straight into the current outlets that are set up for the Landline telephone sockets.

In this day and age the Landline will never be connected to the boat but the USB chargers will be used every night.

About $37 each, seems like a bargain to me.

Graham
 
Looks good!
Mine looks identical!!!
View attachment 54924

I like your stainless foot button covers for the windlass...where did you get them??
I too bought and put the stainless foot covers on the bow for the winch. Only $65 each! You can call/email MMI Marine/Magna Marine in California. Kevin Ruiz was great. When searching, some people only list and try to make you buy the entire switch to get the covers, which drives up the price to an insane amount. There is a way to order just the covers in SS. They also fit the factory switches even if winch is not a Maxwell.

No Item Description Qty Price Total Unit
1 MAXP100733 MAXWELL Cover only SS. footswitch 2 68.75 137.50 EAC
Customer Message:
Credit Card payment is being sent via email.
SUBTOTAL: 137.50 USD TAX 0.000%: 0.00 USD SHIPPING: --quote-- TOTAL ORDER: 137.50 USD
 
I too bought and put the stainless foot covers on the bow for the winch. Only $65 each! You can call/email MMI Marine/Magna Marine in California. Kevin Ruiz was great. When searching, some people only list and try to make you buy the entire switch to get the covers, which drives up the price to an insane amount. There is a way to order just the covers in SS. They also fit the factory switches even if winch is not a Maxwell.

No Item Description Qty Price Total Unit
1 MAXP100733 MAXWELL Cover only SS. footswitch 2 68.75 137.50 EAC
Customer Message:
Credit Card payment is being sent via email.
SUBTOTAL: 137.50 USD TAX 0.000%: 0.00 USD SHIPPING: --quote-- TOTAL ORDER: 137.50 USD

Thanks!!! Just ordered the last 2 they had in stock.
 
Hi all,

I have completed my all my Fall/ Spring punch list other than one last thing.

My steering is hard to starboard and easy to port. I know there is a reservoir under the helm.

Any tips on correcting this or the services procedure?

I also wanted to share some of the fun work we did to the boat.
All new down lights and cockpit lights.
Plasdeck floor.
Full JL sound system.

IMG_3227.jpg IMG_3228.jpg IMG_3230.jpg IMG_3231.jpg IMG_3212.jpg IMG_3213.jpg IMG_3214.jpg IMG_3211 (1).jpg
 
Funny you bring up the steering. Just flushed mine Sunday. You will need 2-3 quarts of sea star hydraulic fluid and the proprietary pump (it’s worth the 20 bucks I made a mess then ordered it).

Under the generator pedestal is the steering cylinder,, it has 2 5/8” bleeder ports. Put a hose on the bleeder valves and into a gallon jug. Have someone help fill it at the helm and you bleed from underneath. Takes about 10 minutes and I’ll bet your steering is smooth as silk.
 
Funny you bring up the steering. Just flushed mine Sunday. You will need 2-3 quarts of sea star hydraulic fluid and the proprietary pump (it’s worth the 20 bucks I made a mess then ordered it).

Under the generator pedestal is the steering cylinder,, it has 2 5/8” bleeder ports. Put a hose on the bleeder valves and into a gallon jug. Have someone help fill it at the helm and you bleed from underneath. Takes about 10 minutes and I’ll bet your steering is smooth as silk.


Can you please give details of the pump and where it can be purchased.

Thanks

Graham
 
Funny you bring up the steering. Just flushed mine Sunday. You will need 2-3 quarts of sea star hydraulic fluid and the proprietary pump (it’s worth the 20 bucks I made a mess then ordered it).

Under the generator pedestal is the steering cylinder,, it has 2 5/8” bleeder ports. Put a hose on the bleeder valves and into a gallon jug. Have someone help fill it at the helm and you bleed from underneath. Takes about 10 minutes and I’ll bet your steering is smooth as silk.

Thank you as always your a big help to us all.
 

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