340 SUNDANCER THREAD

I have an 01 with the 7.4 Horizons. Been running with the log style mufflers for the 3-4 years I have owned her and haven't had any issues with a total of around 925 hours on the engines. The water ingestion was also more of a problem for the horizons motors vs the MPI due to the cams that were installed for the extra HP.

With the 3 riser, resonator it should be fine. Just come off plane nice and easy to help prevent water flowing back up the exhaust tube.
 
If you own a boat that hasn't demonstrated issues I'd suggest, at a minimum, you consider replacing the mufflers when the time comes to sell. Most people that spend any time researching this vintage Sea Ray will figure out that there are two big things to look for - 1.) wet foredeck and 2.) log style mufflers. Not having water lift mufflers should be on the hit list for most buyers. I personally wouldn't pay for the survey to find "issue #1" if the photos showed issue #2. Though that's just me.
 
Has anyone had experience with a Rocna anchor on the 2002 generation 340DA with a stock bow roller? I would be looking at the 33lb one, their model 15. I saw posts from folks with one generation newer Sundancer, '06 I think it was, that had trouble with the point of the anchor contacting the bow when pulled up on the roller. I think in '03 the configuration changed with the new model. Thanks.
 
Has anyone had experience with a Rocna anchor on the 2002 generation 340DA with a stock bow roller? I would be looking at the 33lb one, their model 15. I saw posts from folks with one generation newer Sundancer, '06 I think it was, that had trouble with the point of the anchor contacting the bow when pulled up on the roller. I think in '03 the configuration changed with the new model. Thanks.

Sounds like an awfully big anchor for a 340? I think our stock plow's are 16lbs???
 
My stock anchor on my 320 07 is 25lb, so I would assume the 340 would be at least 25, maybe larger??
 
My stock anchor on my 320 07 is 25lb, so I would assume the 340 would be at least 25, maybe larger??

Well you had me doubting myself. You are indeed closer, I looked and my parts manual says my stock rig is 22lbs....

Perhaps this varies by year and model. 33lbs still seems a bit big but maybe not for the newer 340's.
 
My current stock Kodiak plow is 25lbs, I was looking to upgrade the anchor to their 33 model since we overnight on it more, and it gives me a little more holding power. My concern is that it might not fit on the roller without touching the hull. I found that on Rocna's website, they have templates you can print to size and then try it on the boat. I will probably do that when I can get over to the boat.
 
Any 340owners, that have replaced their Vacuflush switch, know which model it is?
I thinks 385318032. Was hoping to order and have in hand when I go down to work on the run-on problem this weekend. Already received the duck bills.
Call: SD CA Phone Number: 1-619-223-7159 seems there the only ones that I could order from for the Vernalifts around $1400! Then I had to order the Real nice Elbos and Hoses from Jamestown at 1-401-253-3840
But they really had Nice Round Elbos in the 5" and 4" and Hoses $1485 for everything I needed and the Elbos came from across the Pond in the Netherland I was told. But they sure look better then them Fiber glass Mickey Mouse Cheap stuff parts!
 
The boat came out of the building last Friday. So I headed out to the marina to make my spring "to-do" list. I know I want to replace all my batteries this year. I looked at the paperwork from when I purchased the boat and the dealer put in 3- group 27 dual purpose Exide Nautilus (2-port and 1-starboard) and 1- 1000mca Exide Powersource Group 24 for the genny. These have all been great batteries and have lasted several years with proper charging. Just curious what size batteries is everyone using? 1000mca for the genny seems a little overkill.
 
The boat came out of the building last Friday. So I headed out to the marina to make my spring "to-do" list. I know I want to replace all my batteries this year. I looked at the paperwork from when I purchased the boat and the dealer put in 3- group 27 dual purpose Exide Nautilus (2-port and 1-starboard) and 1- 1000mca Exide Powersource Group 24 for the genny. These have all been great batteries and have lasted several years with proper charging. Just curious what size batteries is everyone using? 1000mca for the genny seems a little overkill.

I replaced all 4 on my 340 with Group 31 Marine AGM batt's from Interstate two seasons ago. Capacity is good, and I'm on a mooring, so they're not plugged in for a full charge too often, just charge them on the alternators and with the generator and plug in when I'm in a transient slip some weekends. Depends how you use the boat, I'm on the mooring or hook a lot, and use both fridges.

The model is 31M-AGM https://www.interstatebatteries.com/recreation-vehicles/marine-batteries/dual-purpose
 
If you own a boat that hasn't demonstrated issues I'd suggest, at a minimum, you consider replacing the mufflers when the time comes to sell. Most people that spend any time researching this vintage Sea Ray will figure out that there are two big things to look for - 1.) wet foredeck and 2.) log style mufflers. Not having water lift mufflers should be on the hit list for most buyers. I personally wouldn't pay for the survey to find "issue #1" if the photos showed issue #2. Though that's just me.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I think the mufflers will be my long term project. Maybe do one a year in order to lessen the pain. Has anyone done this retrofit themselves that could share their part numbers or sourcing. Thanks
 
Congratulations on the boat. It's a fantastic boat! One thing you may want to think about doing is rebidding everything on the bow. The seals breakdown over time and can do some serious damage. You would remove everything on the deck, hatches, horn, cleat, light etc. Remove and if not bad recaulk and put it all back together. If need be you may want to epoxy and redrill holes. Good luck. May a project for next winter
 
The anchor roller only fits certain anchors.. I have a few threads on it if you go look at my past posts. Kodiack does not fit all of them... and for sure not the bigger one.
 
Hello everyone! Just wanted to say I'm really glad you all have and contribute to this thread. It's already helped me out. I just purchased my first SeaRay 340DA 1988 about a month ago. She is a great boat and I've already done a ton of work on her.
What I've done:
- Tshoot and repair water system
- Reupholster the settee
- Tshoot port engine low idle and stall - was due to a loose alt belt and corrosion on the carburetor linkages from a blown shaft seal ie. saltwater spray.
- Replace faulty and broken bonding wires in the bilge.
- Tshoot and repaired generator. She has a Westerbeke 6.5kw and it was neglected and not working. Had to rebuild the seawater pump, new impeller, replace fan belts, order new fan shroud housings bolts, clean corrosion, weld housing mounts, retap screw holes, clean heat ex-changer from fouled anode and replaced seals, flush block/exchanger and overall cleaning. Works like a singer sewing machine now!
- New stereo, speakers, bluetooth aux setup. :smt001
- Overall cleaning, waxing, steam cleaning carpets, wash bilge, clean bimini from mold/dirt and resealed with 303 fabric guard, snap-in carpets cleaned.

What I'm working on now:
- Finally found a glass shop that can get me the slide track channel for the slider windows. The old ones are hard, brittle and busted. Windows wont slide.
- Tshoot electrical issues, I suspect due to corrosion, eg. the tachometers bounce during operation and are not reading correctly. Going to methodically replace and re terminate all related wiring and connections until they work.
- Port engine ammeter is reading weird, bounces around, can get it to move by tapping on the glass of the gauge, hmmmmm...
- Replacing the anchor line with new 300ft of 1/2". Trying to find an economical source, WestMarine wants $1.31/ft, gah! Also trying to decide if I should go with the smooth chain to line splice setup for ease of vertical windlass operation as opposed to using shackles and eyelets for the line to chain transition?
- Learning how to tighten the drip seals on the shafts. They are dripping too much right now and need tightening. Damn those things are down below the trannies, I don't think I can get my fat rump down there...

There is more but its minor stuff.
I'm writing this to not only add to the thread and hopefully help someone else out, but to also document some of my work. These issues take a lot of time to tshoot and resolve. If I was to hire a mechanic to do all this I would already be into thousands of dollars of labor. Luckily I'm an engineer, inquisitive and love to learn about my boat!

If I can help anyone out I will try. Again I'm new to this boat so in the process of learning. I do have a mentor that has owned SeaRay's for years and has really help me a ton in where to focus.

The weather is finally nice here in Seattle!!! Time to go boating.
 
Congratulations on the boat. It's a fantastic boat! One thing you may want to think about doing is rebidding everything on the bow. The seals breakdown over time and can do some serious damage. You would remove everything on the deck, hatches, horn, cleat, light etc. Remove and if not bad recaulk and put it all back together. If need be you may want to epoxy and redrill holes. Good luck. May a project for next winter
Is everything just screwed in or is it thru bolted Thanks Rich
 
Is everything just screwed in or is it thru bolted Thanks Rich

Bigger items like windlasses are through bolted. Smaller items like windlass foot switched are probably just screwed in. So it will depend on the item.

-Kevin
 
The bow rail is thru-bolted. Getting to the bottom side is quite a lot of work involving moderate molestation of the ceiling in the cabin...
That's what I thought. I remember trying to do my 1990 28' I just did it neatly around each stanchion
 

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