40 sedan bridge forum

Stereo upgrade update... changed the old (wired) Clarion remote on the flybridge for the newer Clarion MW1 (also have a wireless remote connected for more mobile use)... needed to run a new (8-pin) control cable from the unit to the bridge (easy enough), but cutting the new 3" hole in place of the old 2" hole took some creativity (see pics)... in the end I epoxied a batten behind the old hole (creatively held in place overnight with a screw and tape while the epoxy went off), then 2" core drilled some MDF to provide a guide for the auger and screwed it to the temporary batten... then (carefully) core drilled the new 3" hole, removed the batten and installed the new remote... as someone said on this forum... "only hurt for a second" :)... glad it's done, though!... just thought I'd post my solution in case anyone now or in future wants to do the same... thought it might help? Cheers!
 

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Stereo upgrade update... changed the old (wired) Clarion remote on the flybridge for the newer Clarion MW1 (also have a wireless remote connected for more mobile use)... needed to run a new (8-pin) control cable from the unit to the bridge (easy enough), but cutting the new 3" hole in place of the old 2" hole took some creativity (see pics)... in the end I epoxied a batten behind the old hole (creatively held in place overnight with a screw and tape while the epoxy went off), then 2" core drilled some MDF to provide a guide for the auger and screwed it to the temporary batten... then (carefully) core drilled the new 3" hole, removed the batten and installed the new remote... as someone said on this forum... "only hurt for a second" :)... glad it's done, though!... just thought I'd post my solution in case anyone now or in future wants to do the same... thought it might help? Cheers!
Hehe
I was going to do the same, then I just use the old one to drill the hole, I was going to throw it away anyway, very simple solution.

I still have pending to run the wire from the bridge to the salon, how hard was to run the cable? Any sugestion?
 

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Pretty easy to run the wire. I've done it several times. Remove subwoofer to help you feed the wire. Then push it down through the hole all the other wires go through. That hole is just forward of the first access hole at the base of the radar arch. The wire will end up in the area behind the radio.

I have done the opposite of you two. I didn't need the wired remote at the helm anymore so I sent it to a fellow CSR member. I then replaced it with an air temp gauge I found that happened to be the right size for the hole. Now I know how hot it is on the bridge. Ha!
 
Last electronics upgrade "I think" I added the E7 and Ray 70 mostly because the refurbished sale. It also gives me another option other than just the touch screen. I like the Ray70 my OCD said it needed to match all the other new electronics. The AIS is a bonus, now I just need to get rid of the ugly thing beside it, probably just remove it and get a blank panel.
Ray O
Hi Ray when you upgrade the Raymarine char plotter on the Port side, did you connected it to the original Radar dome? Is that compatible?, or you had to change the entire Radar.?
My radar is working fine, but my screen just died, I don’t know if I buy only the charplotter it will be connected to the existing radar dome?
 
Pretty easy to run the wire. I've done it several times. Remove subwoofer to help you feed the wire. Then push it down through the hole all the other wires go through. That hole is just forward of the first access hole at the base of the radar arch. The wire will end up in the area behind the radio.

I have done the opposite of you two. I didn't need the wired remote at the helm anymore so I sent it to a fellow CSR member. I then replaced it with an air temp gauge I found that happened to be the right size for the hole. Now I know how hot it is on the bridge. Ha!

Thank you Bill
 
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Hehe
I was going to do the same, then I just use the old one to drill the hole, I was going to throw it away anyway, very simple solution.

I still have pending to run the wire from the bridge to the salon, how hard was to run the cable? Any sugestion?
ZZ13 beat me to the punch, but, yes, pretty easy to run the wire... I removed the subwoofer and left speaker and used some weed-whacker string as a mouse through the hole where the other wires drop... that and some cable ties and you're in business!
 
I just did after the hurricane Irma, a new windshield cover going all the way ,one piece covering the side windows, works perfect to protect the interior from the south Florida sun.
Also did the new sun pads in the bow, I just bought 3 floating pool pads and cover it with sunbrella.
 

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I just did after the hurricane Irma, a new windshield cover going all the way ,one piece covering the side windows, works perfect to protect the interior from the south Florida sun.
Also did the new sun pads in the bow, I just bought 3 floating pool pads and cover it with sunbrella.

How do you find the heat with the windows screen and the black canvas? I am going to replace my canvas and want to go with black, just looking for feedback. I know it will be hotter than tan or white, just looking for a comparison from those that have experienced it.
 
How do you find the heat with the windows screen and the black canvas? I am going to replace my canvas and want to go with black, just looking for feedback. I know it will be hotter than tan or white, just looking for a comparison from those that have experienced it.
I have solid black sunbrella canvas around the front windshield. I will be replacing it with something white (either a film or an identical sunbrella cover but in white). The salon takes on a lot of heat from it. Looks great from the outside, but not that useful for interior heat prevention.
 
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How do you find the heat with the windows screen and the black canvas? I am going to replace my canvas and want to go with black, just looking for feedback. I know it will be hotter than tan or white, just looking for a comparison from those that have experienced it.

what I have is Black screen made from Textilene 90,Weather max80, you can see thru from the interior to the outside, but no one can see inside, it is hot in summer, I was thinking of doing it in white, but I check several boats around my marina, and they get dirty, it need washing to maintain it beautiful. White is great and I think will be a lot more reflective and cool in summer, I got a quote in White, and I am thinking to keep the white for the summer time and then the black for the cold days December thru march, cost was like $1275.oo the entire windshield including the lateral windows. For now I only did it in Black and it really looks nice.
 
Ray O
Hi Ray when you upgrade the Raymarine char plotter on the Port side, did you connected it to the original Radar dome? Is that compatible?, or you had to change the entire Radar.?
My radar is working fine, but my screen just died, I don’t know if I buy only the charplotter it will be connected to the existing radar dome?
Yes, I change out the open radar to the Q24 works nice!
 
I was hoping to live with the cockpit and flybridge speakers a little longer, but they sound so tinny ... does anyone have any good value suggestions for replacements to the (original?) Panasonic speakers (see attached)?... I know Drafter went the JL Route (with additional tweeters in the cockpit)... I may have do do likewise, but was looking for (hoping for) something a little less expensive/simpler... anyone have any thoughts?
 

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There you go Tigger. I've always thought the best upgrade was speakers first.. I do have (2) pair of the MX650's. The M650's are pretty spendy, and have a slightly larger tweeter. (2) are in the factory location on the flybridge, and (2) in the arch. The arch speakers required spacers for the depth. I also added an M series 10" sub to match the one that I had already replaced on the factory port side. My speakers in the cockpit are the M series 7.7's that come with the separate tweeters. They're not cheap at around $450 for the pair, but there is not much space down there for several pair that don't involve kicking one like in a stair riser. The 2 subs share a 600 watt amp, and the outdoor speakers share a 2nd 600 watt amp. I added a 2nd remote at the swim platform.
 

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Do you remember if this was an easy disassembly?
Yes, it was easy. Just methodical. You have to remove the seat from its base. I don't remember the exact sequence to remove it but I figured it out without much thought.
 
Great 80 degree days this weekend. New bimini top is on, and the transition from a green boat to blue is complete. The big projects are done, and maybe we can stop some of the financial bloodshed and just enjoy. Got a chance to play with my wife's new drone that she asked for, for her birthday, ( I know! right?) and keep it off of the bottom of the lake!
 

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View attachment 54051 Here is what you are replacing. Once you remove yours, just call the phone number and give them the long sequence of numbers that is stamped on it.

In case anyone is interested - I just ordered 2 new ones and they were 81.00 each. I ordered from this website - http://www.hahn-gassprings.com/ The phone number on the spring is no longer active and actually routes you to a Phone Scam, my advise don't call that number.
 
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