Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

I just replaced both turbo oil drain pipe and hose (see picture), the other day I was in the engine room cleaning and painting and suddenly notice one of the pipes very rusted at the connection with the hose, I went to Cummins dealer and bought 2, it is just a piece of galvanized pipe, I gave it 3 coats of anti rust paint, and 2 coats of Cummins paint beige, also bought new hoses, easy to replace.
 

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Felizdream

Do you happen to have the part number? I’m going to get a couple.

Thanks

Josh
 
Has anyone adjusted their fuel aneroid? Since I've owned it, one of my engines has had a slight delay (a few seconds) spooling up the turbo and after eliminating everything else (air restriction, exhaust leak, etc) I'd like to see if adjusting the aneroid will make a difference. Here is a link to pictures of it: http://www.sbmar.com/articles/aneroid-adjustment-on-the-bosch-p7100-injection-pump/
This may be a mute point for you by now. I had to make the aneroid adjustment a few years ago, because my starboard engine was lagging severely (appr. 20 sec) I used Tony's instructions after I bought the special Torx tool to get access to the aneroid. The fix worked like a charm, never had a problem again!
 
This may be a mute point for you by now. I had to make the aneroid adjustment a few years ago, because my starboard engine was lagging severely (appr. 20 sec) I used Tony's instructions after I bought the special Torx tool to get access to the aneroid. The fix worked like a charm, never had a problem again!
Thanks. Mine ended up being a worn turbo. Got it rebuilt and it spools instantly now.
 
Bill I replaced my trans coolers spring of 2017, and my experience from a logevity standpoint is still limited.

I removed my entire saltwater system for service, and noticed on the port cooler some green streeks around the solder joint....early signs of failure. The solder joint was starting to crumble, and were replaced.

I have Mr Cool trans coolet's now....this model does have 2 zincs per cooler.
I ended up deciding on the SeaKamp version. Around $350 on average from all the online places.
 
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I am probably going to remove my fuel coolers. Don't need them in the climate where I boat and it's just another place to fail involving salt water. But I do have a question. What is this thing for that's on the tank side of the fuel cooler?
 
Not sure what it's purpose is, but looks like an adaptor to npt from orfs. Maybe some applications have need to connect something else to that tee?? Mine has it also but I can't think of any reason why it needs to be there on our boats. A 90degree fitting on the hose or just a straight adaptor would be fine.
 
Well I finally did it. After two years of pondering it I dropped the pitch on my 400 Sedan Bridge from 24 to 23 to gain 125rpm at WOT. I was hitting 2625rpm at my normal load, but my normal load is not fully loaded with fuel and water. Plus all my Cummins buddies (both Sea Ray and non Sea Ray owners), as well as sbmar, told me to get to 2750. So there is that. I'll just give her a bit more throttle to make up for the speed loss. Ha!
 
Well I finally did it. After two years of pondering it I dropped the pitch on my 400 Sedan Bridge from 24 to 23 to gain 125rpm at WOT. I was hitting 2625rpm at my normal load, but my normal load is not fully loaded with fuel and water. Plus all my Cummins buddies (both Sea Ray and non Sea Ray owners), as well as sbmar, told me to get to 2750. So there is that. I'll just give her a bit more throttle to make up for the speed loss. Ha!
I’m probably an inch or so under pitched for optimum performance but I sleep soundly knowing I’m not overloading my engines. Rather buy fuel now instead of an engine prematurely.
 
I’m probably an inch or so under pitched for optimum performance but I sleep soundly knowing I’m not overloading my engines. Rather buy fuel now instead of an engine prematurely.
I ended up at a pitch of 22.8. The 420 mile trip home on them went great. I lost about 1mph or so at my previous cruising rpm of 2100. But I gained all of that back and a little more because I now run at 2200. Most noticeable difference was the puff of black smoke I had when spooling up my starboard engine, completely went away. By the way, the port prop was found to be at 23.8 prior to and the starboard prop at 24.1. So the starboard engine was working a bit harder. I highly recommend anyone who bought a used boat and has never had props checked, pull them and at least get them scanned even if you are running smooth. You might be surprised at the actual numbers.
 
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^^ what he said. I cut my props to 22.5 pitch, and the engine spins to 2680, with no smoke. I've been running this for a few years, and my engines are happier for it!
 
When I bought the boat the factory Sherwood seawater pumps were toast. So I bought Tony's SMX pumps and impellers. A tad pricey at $750 each but a spare impeller was included in addition to the one inside the pump. So effectively about a $675 pump. I planned to replace the impellers at the traditional two year mark. But when I took them out they still looked brand new. So I called sbmar and asked what's up. Corey told me as long as you use the boat regularly and don't let the impellers sit and get set, they are getting reports of 600-800 hours out of them. So I just pulled them again and here they are at 4 years and 500+ hours. They are going back in for another year/100+ hours. And those spares are still in their box waiting to be used. Plus the pumps also still look new. Some of the best money I have spent on this boat are these pumps/impellers.
 

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When I bought the boat the factory Sherwood seawater pumps were toast. So I bought Tony's SMX pumps and impellers. A tad pricey at $750 each but a spare impeller was included in addition to the one inside the pump. So effectively about a $675 pump. I planned to replace the impellers at the traditional two year mark. But when I took them out they still looked brand new. So I called sbmar and asked what's up. Corey told me as long as you use the boat regularly and don't let the impellers sit and get set, they are getting reports of 600-800 hours out of them. So I just pulled them again and here they are at 4 years and 500+ hours. They are going back in for another year/100+ hours. And those spares are still in their box waiting to be used. Plus the pumps also still look new. Some of the best money I have spent on this boat are these pumps/impellers.
I just did the same
I replace both
Great pumps
The Port pump is a pain, but I just remove all heat exchangers and aftercooler, so it was easier to change the PORT pump
Without removing that, I don’t have any idea how you could remove/ change the pump
I agree excellent pumps
 
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My old sherwood impellers were in bad shape after 2 years, and I replaced both pumps with SMX spring 2017.....I'm happy to hear of the longevity.
 
I just removed all the aftercoolers and heat exchangers, oil coolers.
My engines are 1,250 hours, Last year I flushed the inside with barnacle buster, took it to the radiator shop for a full service, when they Presure tested one of the core was leaking air, so is time to order 2 new cores, I order it directly from Cummins about $ 1,525 each.
Recommendation flushing the coolers is not enough, you must remove it to check the core.
Only one was leaking, but I think is safer to change both, the radiator shop told me maybe the previous owner ran acid creating the leaking.
See pictures
 

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Id love to hear all of the details of this project; but I'll limit it to a few!

1. Are you replacing all hoses at the same time?
2. How hard is it to remove the hoses?
3. Lastly, how much other equipment did you have to remove to accomplish this? Exhaust tube? Turbo charger? etc...

Thanks for the pics.

Jaybeaux
 
Jay beaux
I just replaced all the hoses last year, they are still in very good shape, so I am using the same hoses. I bought the entire hoses kit from Cummins.
2) Hoses are very easy to replace, just give it a little wiggle with a special hose tool removal.
3) It is really not hard to remove, it was my mechanic and a helper and they remove everything in 4 hours, you don’t need to remove the exhaust hoses, nor the turbos, we remove the air separator filters to gain access to change the port raw water pump.
4) my original black exhaust hoses are starting to leak sea water, I am going to replace them with the new 6” blue silicon hoses, I will post a picture.
5) I strongly recomend specially on the port side, after you remove everything to change the raw water pump to the new version, or at least replace the impellers on the Port side.
 
Jaybeaux
I just saw you have V-drives, looks like your engine room is easier to work.
Look at how my mechanic has to crawl to acces the water pump, after the aftercoolers removal.
 

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