40 sedan bridge forum

I had that exact problem. Drove me nuts for about a year. Turned out to be that the cheap plastic thruhull for the cockpit drains had cracked. Water was forced through the cracks when on plane. I replaced them both with 2" marelon and problem solved. I especially enjoyed wedging into the corners on my back to do the remove/replace.

By the way I also removed the transom rub rail and rebed that joint. It had some areas where the bedding was completely gone. It's pretty easy to remove and re-install that full rubrail.

As affirmation I just bought a 400 and it had that exact problem - was the cockpit drain through hulls. I my case I had the PO replace large in part due to write up ZZ13 did abot how much of a PITA they were. Love this forum!
 
My cockpit AND flybridge speakers have "suddenly" (over the winter) stopped working :-(... they were wired to the FRONT (Left and Right) speakers from my Clarion XMD3, but when I moved the fader 100% to FRONT I lost all sound in the cabins (wired to BACK) and still have no sound in the cockpit or on the bridge...

I thought it might just be the old and cranky unit, so I bought an M608 to replace it, but I have the same problem with the new unit :-(((((

The only 12V electrical work I've done over the winter was to replace the cockpit fridge, so I wondered if I'd disturbed some (fragile) speaker wiring in the process?... so, I was on the boat again today and removed the cockpit speaker (above the fridge, cut into the stairs molding), and noticed a bunch of wires and terminals behind, connected to something which could be an amp, or other audio-related item? (presumably accessed by removing the main electrical panel port side in the salon?).

Before I tear my hair our and start removing half the boat to get to the wiring harnesses etc... I thought I'd try this forum in case any of you have had a similar issue... could be a fuse? or other "simple" fix... he said, hopefully.........................

Here are a couple of pics of the factory amp. I think it's 260 watts or something. I just finished a full upgrade to (2) 10" subs on the bridge, (2 )6 1/2's at the factory helm locations, (2) 6 1/2's in the arch, and (2) 7.7's with seperate tweeters in the cockpit locations, all JL. I then added a 600 rms watt kicker amp for the 2 subs, and a JL 600 rms 6 channel amp for the smaller outside speakers. My deck is a fusion, with remotes at the helm, and swim platform. The inside speakers run off of the deck only. I'm not an audiophile guy, but I think it sounds really good, with enough bass to shake the boat apart if I let it. I'm not interested in being the cove DJ, but do enjoy turning it up a bit with a great song and a rum punch as I bump down the lake from time to time.
The speaker wires for the speaker above the ice maker just drop directly down and tie into that amp. My wires were all still in good shape and re-used.
 

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Here are a couple of pics of the factory amp. I think it's 260 watts or something. I just finished a full upgrade to (2) 10" subs on the bridge, (2 )6 1/2's at the factory helm locations, (2) 6 1/2's in the arch, and (2) 7.7's with seperate tweeters in the cockpit locations, all JL. I then added a 600 rms watt kicker amp for the 2 subs, and a JL 600 rms 6 channel amp for the smaller outside speakers. My deck is a fusion, with remotes at the helm, and swim platform. The inside speakers run off of the deck only. I'm not an audiophile guy, but I think it sounds really good, with enough bass to shake the boat apart if I let it. I'm not interested in being the cove DJ, but do enjoy turning it up a bit with a great song and a rum punch as I bump down the lake from time to time.
The speaker wires for the speaker above the ice maker just drop directly down and tie into that amp. My wires were all still in good shape and re-used.
Your installation sounds amazing (literally and figuratively, I bet!)... my original plan was a little simpler (which probably means it will be a whole lot more complicated!)... my desired outcome is as follows:
  • (simply) replace the aging Clarion XMD3 with a new Clarion M608 - should be "plug and play"
  • be able to isolate the 4 sets of speakers in my boat (stateroom, salon, cockpit & flybridge)
  • I have the Pyle selector switches that should enable me to do that (see attached photo - I have 2 of these)
  • assuming I'll need to route the wiring from the stereo to the amp, then from the amp to the selectors, then on to the speakers
  • so, I will need to trace the wires from each pair of speakers back to each of the selector switches
...thanks to everyone's help on this great forum, I managed to find the amp under the sofa, but now I'm none-the-wiser... the "rear" speakers (salon and stateroom) were bonded together (see photo) and connected to the rear outputs(?) on the amp (kind of makes sense), HOWEVER, there was only one pair "bridged" across the front outputs(?) with a single pair connected to the front (L&R) RCA inputs at the other end...

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out:
  1. how does the sound get to the amp from the head, if there's just a single pair of audio RCAs connected to the front?
  2. how would sound ever have got to the cockpit and flybridge speakers with this arrangement? Must be additional wiring/bridging somewhere!?
Finally (for this post), I think I may have disturbed the switches on the back as I removed the unit, so not 100% sure what should be switched to what (see photo), based on my desired ultimate configuration? Would really appreciate anyone's input (no pun intended) as to how the switches should be set?

Thanks in advance for all the help... again, this is a great forum... plan B could be to throw money at it and get an audio guy to the boat, but how hard can this be?

Cheers,
Simon

PS The amp power light was on, but I have no idea how to "prove it's working" and Clarion's glorious technical service number sends me to an IVR that just tells me I've qualified for a cruise!!!

PPS I have been in contact with Sea Ray and they are digging out the original wiring diagram, which might shed some light?
 

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I had that same amp on my 2004 300DA. It completely quit working after 8 years. The head unit has a wire from it to the amp that is the turn on switch to the amp. Trace it and make sure it's connected properly. Your manuals will tell you which wire that is. Sea Ray used the forward RCA output from the head unit to connect to the amp to get the sound to the amp. They then used a Y connector at the amp to split it to the two RCA inputs on the amp. The four cabin speakers are wired in parallel to the left and right speaker connections of one of those channels at the amp. So there will be 8 wires on four connectors there. The subwoofer is wired in a bridged connection to the other channel of the amp. So only the two outer connectors of those four connectors will have wires on them.

The four cabin speakers are connected directly to the head unit via all the wires coming out of the big rectangular plug on the back of the head unit. The amp turn on wire i mentioned also comes out of that plug connector.
 
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Your installation sounds amazing (literally and figuratively, I bet!)... my original plan was a little simpler (which probably means it will be a whole lot more complicated!)... my desired outcome is as follows:
  • (simply) replace the aging Clarion XMD3 with a new Clarion M608 - should be "plug and play"
  • be able to isolate the 4 sets of speakers in my boat (stateroom, salon, cockpit & flybridge)
  • I have the Pyle selector switches that should enable me to do that (see attached photo - I have 2 of these)
  • assuming I'll need to route the wiring from the stereo to the amp, then from the amp to the selectors, then on to the speakers
  • so, I will need to trace the wires from each pair of speakers back to each of the selector switches
...thanks to everyone's help on this great forum, I managed to find the amp under the sofa, but now I'm none-the-wiser... the "rear" speakers (salon and stateroom) were bonded together (see photo) and connected to the rear outputs(?) on the amp (kind of makes sense), HOWEVER, there was only one pair "bridged" across the front outputs(?) with a single pair connected to the front (L&R) RCA inputs at the other end...

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out:
  1. how does the sound get to the amp from the head, if there's just a single pair of audio RCAs connected to the front?
  2. how would sound ever have got to the cockpit and flybridge speakers with this arrangement? Must be additional wiring/bridging somewhere!?
Finally (for this post), I think I may have disturbed the switches on the back as I removed the unit, so not 100% sure what should be switched to what (see photo), based on my desired ultimate configuration? Would really appreciate anyone's input (no pun intended) as to how the switches should be set?

Thanks in advance for all the help... again, this is a great forum... plan B could be to throw money at it and get an audio guy to the boat, but how hard can this be?

Cheers,
Simon

PS The amp power light was on, but I have no idea how to "prove it's working" and Clarion's glorious technical service number sends me to an IVR that just tells me I've qualified for a cruise!!!

PPS I have been in contact with Sea Ray and they are digging out the original wiring diagram, which might shed some light?
In my case, the previous owner had already dropped in a Fusion head unit with one set of Sub RCA outputs, and one set of regular line out RCA outputs. The deck speaker outputs are my inside speakers using the decks factory power, and is zoned through the head unit to control that volume. The RCA outputs form your deck provide the sound signal to the amp. The amp "turn on" power is the single blue wire plugged into "remote" terminal on the amp that lets the amp know that it needs to turn on when the deck turns on. Your factory set up has the blue turn on wire. Bill is correct in that the bridged speaker wires that you see, power your 10" sub on the bridge, which requires the extra power from the amp. The individual speaker wires that you see bound together are obviously your remaining speakers, of which you have 8 total. These can be un-crimped and wired to whatever channel works best for you. Those (8) speakers are likely wired in parallel with (2) speakers both wired on the same circuit back to the (4)+, and (4)- channels that you see on the amp. So, from the amp + to a speaker +, and then from that speaker + to the next speaker + in line. You don't really need a wiring diagram. You can trace what speaker wire goes to where without using the amp, with a simple 9 volt battery. Touching the positive and negative terminals to the wire will create a pulse through the wire that will move the speaker cone enough to provide an audible click to the speaker on the end. I took masking tape and a sharpie and labeled all of my individual wires near the amp connection. The hardest part that I ran into was getting additional wire from the deck above, to the amp under the couch. In my case, I only needed one more set of RCA's for the additional sub amp. I dropped a long RCA cable back behind my main circuit breaker panel, accessed from behind the deck, which then drops pretty easily into the engine room. From the engine room, I came back up through the access plate for the port side tank sending unit, under the couch, and to the amp. You may have to do something like this to get your speaker wires from your amp, to the speaker selector switch, and then back to the amp again. I will probably do something similar with an equalizer under my deck that does the same thing. Wakeboard boats use these to control the volume of their tower speakers. Right now I cannot separate the volume between the bridge and the cockpit areas, which I would like to be able to do. I don't know about your new amp that you have purchased, but should you decide to buy another for more power, many amps have an RCA line out on them to allow multiple amps to be daisy chained together. The big thing with adding more powerful amps, is to make sure that you have a large enough power wire to handle the load. This is very important. I now have large 2 gauge marine battery cable going directly to a dedicated battery, through a 65 amp fuse, into a splitter, with (2) 4 gauge cables feeding into each amp from there. The factory amp power wires are pretty inadequate to go with much more amp than what is there. Hope I didn't ramble too much, and that some of this helps!
 

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Drafter and I may have implied two different wiring. But to be clear, the amp does not connect to the four interior speakers. The amp connects to the four exterior speakers and the subwoofer. The bridge and cockpit port speakers are tied together on the same connectors and screwed down to the LEFT connector pair on the bottom row of the amp. The bridge and cockpit starboard speakers are tied together on the same connectors and screwed down to the RIGHT connector pair on the bottom row of the amp.
 
Drafter and I may have implied two different wiring. But to be clear, the amp does not connect to the four interior speakers. The amp connects to the four exterior speakers and the subwoofer. The bridge and cockpit port speakers are tied together on the same connectors and screwed down to the LEFT connector pair on the bottom row of the amp. The bridge and cockpit starboard speakers are tied together on the same connectors and screwed down to the RIGHT connector pair on the bottom row of the amp.
You guys ROCK!... now it's all starting to make sense... would explain why the interior speakers still work even with the amp completely disconnected!... with all that said, all roads now seem to be pointing towards blown amp... the nice man at Sea Ray helpfully emailed me the attached wiring diagram, which puts into pictures that which has already been said above, but may help others on this forum (now or in in the future) who may be similarly scratching their heads trying to figure all this out... I've also spotted another (ahem) potential culprit (see attached remnants of the flybridge subwoofer cone - RIP!)... will replace that, reconnect the amp per the attached wiring diagram and continue the step-by-step diagnosis... feels like we're edging closer to a (re)solution :)

Thanks again for all the assistance... what did we ever do before internet forums?!

Cheers,
Simon
 

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Hi guys. I have a leak that manifests itself when we are running. It appears to be coming from the STBD side. Nothing comes in when we are still or running at idle. When I am on plane it is leaking significantly. I can see it running along the inside STBD quarter when I am in the engine room. It kicks the bilge on every few minutes but again, only when running. Has anyone experienced this or have any recommendations? The "obvious" culprits would appear to be the bilge through-hulls, the scupper for the cockpit, or the rubrail from the transom that extends to the side. I want to get someone to look at it and would like to offer some suggestions for them to look at.
I had the same problem and it was completely different what the other guys have mentioned. My float in the gray water box would go on the blink and sometimes work (or not work). Sitting still, the box would not leak and the pump/float would work...don't ask me how, but it did. When we would run, the tilt of the boat would make the water run out of the rear of the box since the gasket was bad, causing the aft bilge to kick on. I replaced three things and fixed it. The gray water float and bilge and the gasket around the clear lid cover which had deteriorate to nothing. It is an easy fix since the distribution box is right outside the stateroom doors.

Good luck. Pesky leaks are a pain sometimes. If you are getting any odors in the cabin, the gasket is bad in the gray box. Even though it is gray water, it does build up a musky smell.
 
Anyone know where you can get either replacement captains seat covers or replacement seats?
I don't, but that sounds like quite an expensive undertaking?... have you considered a vinyl seat repair/refurbish guy?... I used my local Color Glo agent to refurbish the spent vinyl covers on our Maxum 2300SC and they came out great: www.colorglo.com... I have some marks/stains on my captains chairs on the SB400 and plan to use them to do the same here... not sure if this helps or not?
 
Has anyone out there installed a Sirius XM antenna anywhere on the boat?... as part of my (ongoing and ever-growing) simple stereo replacement project, I thought I'd upgrade the radio to Sirius XM... I have bought a SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner, which will plug straight into my new Clarion M608, but the (magnetic) antenna needs to be mounted somewhere where it can see the sky... the radar arch is the obvious immediate thought, but that's fiberglass... before I go too crazy, thought I'd ask here if anyone has successfully mounted a magnetic antenna anywhere and traced the wiring back to the unit?... and, if so, where and how? Cheers
 
Has anyone out there installed a Sirius XM antenna anywhere on the boat?... as part of my (ongoing and ever-growing) simple stereo replacement project, I thought I'd upgrade the radio to Sirius XM... I have bought a SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner, which will plug straight into my new Clarion M608, but the (magnetic) antenna needs to be mounted somewhere where it can see the sky... the radar arch is the obvious immediate thought, but that's fiberglass... before I go too crazy, thought I'd ask here if anyone has successfully mounted a magnetic antenna anywhere and traced the wiring back to the unit?... and, if so, where and how? Cheers
I just have mine set on the port side of the shelf below the front windows, and run the wire along the port side of the boat. It picks up the signal just fine there. But mine isn't a permanent install. I sometimes take the unit and antenna off the boat and use it in the car.
 
I have one that came with the boat. It is mounted on the arch. Not that it helps with the magnet, but the arch is aluminum vs. fiberglass. I started a satellite subscription, but cancelled it. We are under a dock and can only use it while underway or anchored. I use a Spotify no commercial subscription during the summer.
 
I have not had a chance to anchor this boat yet since we've had it. (October) Today I pulled all of my chain out on the dock to see how much was there and to mark it in 10' increments. Looks like 200' which is great. We usually anchor in 50-60' of rocky bottom, and just for the day, so that should be plenty from past experience on our lake. Does the original Lofrans 1 windlass free fall, or just motor up and down?
 

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Has anyone out there installed a Sirius XM antenna anywhere on the boat?... as part of my (ongoing and ever-growing) simple stereo replacement project, I thought I'd upgrade the radio to Sirius XM... I have bought a SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner, which will plug straight into my new Clarion M608, but the (magnetic) antenna needs to be mounted somewhere where it can see the sky... the radar arch is the obvious immediate thought, but that's fiberglass... before I go too crazy, thought I'd ask here if anyone has successfully mounted a magnetic antenna anywhere and traced the wiring back to the unit?... and, if so, where and how? Cheers

I ran this one to the bridge and down to the stock location inside the salon. Plenty of wires to chase down. Easy install. https://greatlakesskipper.com/track...MIyuT16PPM2gIVRQOGCh23yQUHEAQYByABEgIMS_D_BwE
 
I ran this one to the bridge and down to the stock location inside the salon. Plenty of wires to chase down. Easy install. https://greatlakesskipper.com/track...MIyuT16PPM2gIVRQOGCh23yQUHEAQYByABEgIMS_D_BwE
Thanks... could be a good permanent solution if Plan A fails... I'm going to try using this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2K4LCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) attached to the windshield inside port side as a start... Crutchfield tell me that the antenna should be able to "see" enough of the sky (even through the gauze screen shade - we'll see) to be effective... if that doesn't work, I'll have to resort to the external radar arch option... more expense, more drilling and more fishing wores through the boat :)
 
I have not had a chance to anchor this boat yet since we've had it. (October) Today I pulled all of my chain out on the dock to see how much was there and to mark it in 10' increments. Looks like 200' which is great. We usually anchor in 50-60' of rocky bottom, and just for the day, so that should be plenty from past experience on our lake. Does the original Lofrans 1 windlass free fall, or just motor up and down?
I've always "powered down" the windlass, so never tried free-fall (easier to control amount of chain dropped)... I always used a stop watch to time how much chain I dropped, but I like your color-coding... I might plagiarize that (ultimate form of flattery)...
 
Thanks... could be a good permanent solution if Plan A fails... I'm going to try using this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2K4LCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) attached to the windshield inside port side as a start... Crutchfield tell me that the antenna should be able to "see" enough of the sky (even through the gauze screen shade - we'll see) to be effective... if that doesn't work, I'll have to resort to the external radar arch option... more expense, more drilling and more fishing wores through the boat :)
I have a heavy sunbrella canvas cover over my windshield. It does not block the signal at all.
 

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Hi guys. I have a leak that manifests itself when we are running. It appears to be coming from the STBD side. Nothing comes in when we are still or running at idle. When I am on plane it is leaking significantly. I can see it running along the inside STBD quarter when I am in the engine room. It kicks the bilge on every few minutes but again, only when running. Has anyone experienced this or have any recommendations? The "obvious" culprits would appear to be the bilge through-hulls, the scupper for the cockpit, or the rubrail from the transom that extends to the side. I want to get someone to look at it and would like to offer some suggestions for them to look at.

Definitely look into what Bill (ZZ13) mentioned first. But I had a similar leak with a different source. Took me 2 years to find it. On my boat, in the engine room, the forward bilge would get water in it only while underway. I finally figured out that the water was coming from the bilge pump itself. I traced the hose all the way back to the stbd/aft corner of the boat...behind the compartment for the fuel shutoff valves. I removed the wood panel in there and saw the culprit. The hose that goes out to the thru-hull is SUPPOSED to have a loop in it so water can't come back into the boat from the outside. The loop is held up by a cheap plastic hose ring/holder and that broke so the loop fell down. So when I was underway, any water from the wake of my boat, or waves hitting the side of the boat would force water into my bilge. 2 years of searching and a $0.01 zip tie fixed that problem.
 

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