40 sedan bridge forum

I'm confused, wasn't the vinyl painted? How did you get rid of the black? I'm totally interested in getting rid of the doghouse.

Yes, the ceiling section was painted black along with a small square section on the wall. I tried many different solutions and solvents, and the one that worked best for me was 202 Fiberglass Solvent Wash. That with a brush and many rags got most of the paint off. It was a PITA, though and smelly. It's still not perfect, but it's pretty good.
 
Does anyone know an approximate budget number for new canvas and Strataglass? My top still provides shade, but it does not have much water resistance when it rains. If I'm going to get a new top, figure I might as well go all the way and replace the glass also.

Now that the IRS took their cut, I'm not sure if this is still a feasible 2017 idea....

Thank you!

Sunset 2.jpg
 
A few years back I priced doing a color change with 30g strata using boatswain locker (this is who supplied the 400 for sea ray). It was new bimini, glass, and fastback for a tick under 10k (no discounts).

I went in a different direction, and bought my wife an industrial machine. I'll post the pictures once we finish the job (next month or so)
 
Does anyone know an approximate budget number for new canvas and Strataglass? My top still provides shade, but it does not have much water resistance when it rains. If I'm going to get a new top, figure I might as well go all the way and replace the glass also.

Now that the IRS took their cut, I'm not sure if this is still a feasible 2017 idea....

Thank you!

View attachment 54862

There is about a $1000 of material in your bimini and enclosure. Go buy a Sailrite basic walking foot sewing machine, watch the Sailrite videos on Youtube, order the material and use your old canvas as a pattern and make your own.

It makes a fun project, and saves you over 6 grand.
 
Does anyone know an approximate budget number for new canvas and Strataglass? My top still provides shade, but it does not have much water resistance when it rains. If I'm going to get a new top, figure I might as well go all the way and replace the glass also.

Now that the IRS took their cut, I'm not sure if this is still a feasible 2017 idea....

Thank you!

View attachment 54862
Boatswain Locker in Jacksonville, FL did all the original factory 400DB canvas installs. A new full bridge package with bimini top and all panels will be a little over $6000 from them. You will need to negotiate a bit to get that price but you should be able to get it for that. They will come all ready to install with a loaner tool to punch out the holes to install the push pin sockets into the canvas.
 
I met the guys at Boatswains Locker/cover my tractor. Good guys and if you go with them you can order pieces down the road if you drop one. Is anyone familiar with the sinking speed of isinglass?
 
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I met the guys at Boatswains Locker/cover my tractor. Good guys and if you go with them you can order pieces down the road if your drop one. Is anyone familiar with the sinking speed of isinglass?
Ha, unfortunately yes. It was a very windy day in the 280da (previous boat), and I lost grip, as the wind took it overboard. I tried to recover it, but it sunk before I was ever close enough
 
Apparently Sea Ray had more than one supplier for canvas on these boats. Mine was originally done by Gioia Sails. My glass had seen better days so I called them and gave them my hull number and was told they have all the templates and making them was no problem, I would just have to install all of the lift-the-dots and snaps. I had mentioned that I thought my canvas was in good shape, it was just the glass that was bad. I sent them the complete bridge package so they could look at it in October and a few days later I got a call from them saying they felt my canvas had many years left in it and recommended only new glass and complete re-stitching. Needles to say, very happy about that. Looks great and waiting for it to warm up here to get it back on the boat.
 
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View attachment 54936 View attachment 54935
Felix here the only one I have right now. I am going to remove the R300 beside the vhf and replace it with a few isn't switches to or something similar.

Ray O, nice setting.
Is time to replace mine, some equipment is not longer working.
My auto pilot is also no longer working. I see you maintain all Raymarine
Thank you for posting, is looking great.
 
Hi guys. I have a leak that manifests itself when we are running. It appears to be coming from the STBD side. Nothing comes in when we are still or running at idle. When I am on plane it is leaking significantly. I can see it running along the inside STBD quarter when I am in the engine room. It kicks the bilge on every few minutes but again, only when running. Has anyone experienced this or have any recommendations? The "obvious" culprits would appear to be the bilge through-hulls, the scupper for the cockpit, or the rubrail from the transom that extends to the side. I want to get someone to look at it and would like to offer some suggestions for them to look at.
 
Hi guys. I have a leak that manifests itself when we are running. It appears to be coming from the STBD side. Nothing comes in when we are still or running at idle. When I am on plane it is leaking significantly. I can see it running along the inside STBD quarter when I am in the engine room. It kicks the bilge on every few minutes but again, only when running. Has anyone experienced this or have any recommendations? The "obvious" culprits would appear to be the bilge through-hulls, the scupper for the cockpit, or the rubrail from the transom that extends to the side. I want to get someone to look at it and would like to offer some suggestions for them to look at.
I had that exact problem. Drove me nuts for about a year. Turned out to be that the cheap plastic thruhull for the cockpit drains had cracked. Water was forced through the cracks when on plane. I replaced them both with 2" marelon and problem solved. I especially enjoyed wedging into the corners on my back to do the remove/replace.

By the way I also removed the transom rub rail and rebed that joint. It had some areas where the bedding was completely gone. It's pretty easy to remove and re-install that full rubrail.
 
My cockpit AND flybridge speakers have "suddenly" (over the winter) stopped working :-(... they were wired to the FRONT (Left and Right) speakers from my Clarion XMD3, but when I moved the fader 100% to FRONT I lost all sound in the cabins (wired to BACK) and still have no sound in the cockpit or on the bridge...

I thought it might just be the old and cranky unit, so I bought an M608 to replace it, but I have the same problem with the new unit :-(((((

The only 12V electrical work I've done over the winter was to replace the cockpit fridge, so I wondered if I'd disturbed some (fragile) speaker wiring in the process?... so, I was on the boat again today and removed the cockpit speaker (above the fridge, cut into the stairs molding), and noticed a bunch of wires and terminals behind, connected to something which could be an amp, or other audio-related item? (presumably accessed by removing the main electrical panel port side in the salon?).

Before I tear my hair our and start removing half the boat to get to the wiring harnesses etc... I thought I'd try this forum in case any of you have had a similar issue... could be a fuse? or other "simple" fix... he said, hopefully.........................
 
My cockpit AND flybridge speakers have "suddenly" (over the winter) stopped working :-(... they were wired to the FRONT (Left and Right) speakers from my Clarion XMD3, but when I moved the fader 100% to FRONT I lost all sound in the cabins (wired to BACK) and still have no sound in the cockpit or on the bridge...

I thought it might just be the old and cranky unit, so I bought an M608 to replace it, but I have the same problem with the new unit :-(((((

The only 12V electrical work I've done over the winter was to replace the cockpit fridge, so I wondered if I'd disturbed some (fragile) speaker wiring in the process?... so, I was on the boat again today and removed the cockpit speaker (above the fridge, cut into the stairs molding), and noticed a bunch of wires and terminals behind, connected to something which could be an amp, or other audio-related item? (presumably accessed by removing the main electrical panel port side in the salon?).

Before I tear my hair our and start removing half the boat to get to the wiring harnesses etc... I thought I'd try this forum in case any of you have had a similar issue... could be a fuse? or other "simple" fix... he said, hopefully.........................
There is an amp for the outdoor speakers. In my boat it is under the port salon sofa against the aft end. It may have gone belly up or you disturbed the turn on signal wire to it from the head unit, or you disturbed power or ground wire to it.

All that wiring you see behind the speaker is not audio. It's for a bunch of other things (sofa controller, galvanic isolator, system monitor, halon system, etc). Look under the sofa for an amp.
 
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There is an amp for the outdoor speakers. In my boat it is under the port salon sofa against the aft end. It may have gone belly up or you disturbed the turn on signal wire to it from the head unit, or you disturbed power or ground wire to it.

All that wiring you see behind the speaker is not audio. It's for a bunch of other things (sofa controller, galvanic isolator, system monitor, halon system, etc). Look under the sofa for an amp.
Thanks Bill,

...and so to my follow-up question... how easy is it to get under the sofa?... any clues as to what to remove/unscrew/move to get under it?

Thanks again in advance...
 
Thanks Bill,

...and so to my follow-up question... how easy is it to get under the sofa?... any clues as to what to remove/unscrew/move to get under it?

Thanks again in advance...
You can see it by peeking under the skirt bellow the sofa. You can remove the skirt. Three screws hold it onto the underside of the sofa. Then if you want more elbow room you can easily unscrew the bench seat from the frame.
 

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