Official 400EC thread

No, I didn't. They aren't that bad and I don't know how I would cut all of those small switch holes. They have to be more precise than anything else. I wasn't actually intending on replacing the main panels at this time either, but when I took the dash apart to work on my electronics, I could see that there wasn't much I could do to install the new electronics and use the old panel. So one thing just let to another. I've stopped at this point for now. I think I'd need some kind of CNC to cut the holes for the switches.

I think there are some precut panels available from some of the companies making aftermarket panels.

It is always amazing how one thing always seems to lead to another.......
 
Yeah, there are, but I don’t know if it’ll match the Burl wood I just installed or not. And what I’ve found is that you seriously pay for the precut versions. I’m going to attempt it one day but it’s not a high priority. Too many other projects to tackle.
 
Looks sweet!! I know personally how much work is involved after replacing my dash panels early last summer.

Anyone know what the part # is for a Ignition sensor for my 1995 7.4L?

 
Looks nice Talon. Did you get the replacement panels from Flounder Pounder? If not, I'm wondering how you managed the systems monitor on the right side of the electronics panel. I'm having to make up my own solution for it and it's a work in progress.
 
Looks nice Talon. Did you get the replacement panels from Flounder Pounder? If not, I'm wondering how you managed the systems monitor on the right side of the electronics panel. I'm having to make up my own solution for it and it's a work in progress.

Thanks!!

Yes, I bought the three panel dash set from Flounder Pounder. They begged me to give them the specs on my new equipment so they could make the cut outs. I'm so happy that I did!
 
Speaking of projects. I just put Infinity woven vinyl on the floor in my cockpit. This photo was taken before the edges were surged.

vinyl_floor.jpg
I'm thinking that this would look great on my '94 400EC. Does this material have any type of backing?
 
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I'm thinkig that this would look greta on my '94 400EC. Does this material have any type of backing?

It does have a backing. It's water proof and some people even use it as a swim platform material. It's pretty much what every new boat manufacturer has gone to. No one is using carpet anymore.
 
  1. Has anyone replaced or updated their controls? The Teleflex CH4400 looks like it would be a direct drop in for the old controls.
  2. Can anyone recommend a source for a new spotlight control switch and joystick?
 
After taking the boat out for the weekend I found the starboard engine to be a bit sluggish, and have noticed a very slight miss for the last few months. So after a compression test I pulled the heads and found this on the left bank. Looks like someone else has been in here before, and used automotive head gaskets. That's a big no no!



On the right bank I found two tulip shaped intake valves, so off to the machine shop for a valve job.



An hour later the machine shop called to tell me that both heads are cracked! Luckily they had a set for only $250 using my parts. What's next??
 
Talon are the engine raw water cooled or FWC? I have been told by many that automotive gaskets are fine on FWC engines. I would use marine gaskets anyway myself.
 
Talon are the engine raw water cooled or FWC? I have been told by many that automotive gaskets are fine on FWC engines. I would use marine gaskets anyway myself.

My engines are raw water cooled. If I keep this 400 EC and not move up to 500 Sundancer, I'll install a FWC system on both engines.
 
Talon, at least you found this now and not in June or July. Good luck with the work.
 
A question about changing the port engine impeller. Has anyone done this without opening the floor all the way? I'm wondering if it's possible to crawl to the outboard side of the port engine and be in a position effective enough to accomplish this task.
 
A question about changing the port engine impeller. Has anyone done this without opening the floor all the way? I'm wondering if it's possible to crawl to the outboard side of the port engine and be in a position effective enough to accomplish this task.

My 1995 boat, the starboard one is the tough one to reach.
I can squeeze my 200lb body in front of the engine and remove the pump on the bracket. Then, R&R the pump kit on deck while standing up straight.
My trick is to do the easy side first..this way you have the correct size wrenches out to tackle the SOB side :)
 
A question about changing the port engine impeller. Has anyone done this without opening the floor all the way? I'm wondering if it's possible to crawl to the outboard side of the port engine and be in a position effective enough to accomplish this task.

Yours has the Cats in it, correct? On my 1994 with 7.4 Mercs, the port motor is the easy one to reach, just as Mark said. Since I don't know how the Cat engines are configured, I can't comment on them.
 
Talon, at least you found this now and not in June or July. Good luck with the work.

Thanks!!

Latest update, all exhaust valves needed replacing, and picked up two new head bolt kits, Gen 5 head, intake, & exhaust manifold, and riser gaskets etc.
 
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Yours has the Cats in it, correct? On my 1994 with 7.4 Mercs, the port motor is the easy one to reach, just as Mark said. Since I don't know how the Cat engines are configured, I can't comment on them.

Ah yes. Good point. I should have mentioned that they're CAT diesels. The starboard one is probably one of the easiest maintenance items to access. The port one in on the outboard side of the motor and I'm not looking forward to removing the whole seat assembly (and icebox) to open the floor up more just to accomplish a 10 minute maintenance task.
 
Hey Guys, If any of you have been thinking about replacing your old cockpit carpet you might be able to benefit from my colorblindness. I bought a roll of the Infinity Luxury Woven vinyl flooring material thinking it would match my white with gray and blue accent interior, but it really doesn't. It is tan, taupe, and cream colored, and it is the teak style pattern. It's beautiful stuff and would go great with a a light tan bimini. It is cut to fit my 94 400EC and I think it would fit most years. i put a lot of time in creating a template , test fitting and trimming. It's much nicer than the stock carpets and I am going to use the same stuff to do mine I'm just going to find it in a gray color. I'm not looking to make a profit on this so I'd just like to get back what I have in it (Six Hundred) so I can buy another roll. If you are thinking about this upgrade this will save you at least a thousand bucks and probably close to twice that. Post a reply or send me a message and I'll send you pics and details.
 
  1. Has anyone replaced or updated their controls? The Teleflex CH4400 looks like it would be a direct drop in for the old controls.
  2. Can anyone recommend a source for a new spotlight control switch and joystick?
Sorry Olysan, looks like your post got lost between two stories.

I have not looked into changing controls so I can't help you there.

On the remote spotlight, the OEM was probably the Jabsco 7" chrome light. The control with joystick is still available and should be simple to replace. I changed my light to a Jabsco RL135. It was an easy swap as it uses the same plugs and wire as the OEM light. I just changed the light and the control and kept the same wiring.
 
For anyone that may need this one day, accessing or replacing the shore power inlets can be made a little easier with "some" trim panel removal. The Line 1 shore power connector on my boat had a burned leg so I picked up a new insert. As it turns out they are not simply screwed into the side of the boat, bolts with lock nuts were used so you need access the inside to reach the nuts. Attempting to reach up from behind the electrical panel seemed difficult at best, so I looked for an alternate way to reach them. Removing the small trim piece at the aft end of the salon window curtains let me see that the shore power inlets were right there (you may have to unscrew the end of the curtain track to get the panel out of there), but the power inlets were still blocked by a support coming from the trim surrounding the salon windows. I was not able to move it far enough to give access behind it, so out came the screw gun. Ultimately, here is what needed to be removed (again my images are sideways and I don't know why, sorry):
IMG_6986.JPG

You need to start by removing the trim that contains the 3 salon lights. Taking the lights out allows you to access the screws that hold it in place. There are two screws in each hole. One screw is in the bottom of the panel into the wall, the other is at the top of the panel (looking straight up into the hole for the light fixture) into the overhead.

With this out of the way, you can now start to remove the side trim panel that has the curtain track. It is all one piece. It is held in place by 3 screws. One screw is in the middle up into a block of wood affixed to the overhead. The other two screws are into the forward bulkhead (for the second stateroom) behind another trim piece that you need to remove. When all three screws are out the panel should be loose enough to pull the forward end away from the windows then pull the panel towards the bow to get the aft end off of the window shelf. The end result is:

IMG_6985.JPG



Now you will have access to the rear of the shore power inlets:

IMG_6983.JPG



You can see three of the four bolts that hold the inlet in place. The aft lower bolt had to be done a little by feel for me, but I was able to get it. An 11/32 box end wrench did the trick for me on disassembly. I used a deep socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet when tightening the bolts. Given the placement of these, it is definitely a two person job! My 8 year old using the cordless screw gun helped make it happen.

All in all, the project did not take too long. Maybe an hour start to finish, but part of that time was the negotiation with the 8 year old to keep him involved in the project!

Hope this can help someone else someday.
 

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