Rebed deck fittings

rh320

Member
Mar 2, 2018
119
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Boatless
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Boatless
So, I just purchased a 2005 320DA and am thinking that I should probably rebed any all deck fittings. What all should I look to rebed and what is the best product to use? While I am at it should I replace the portlight gaskets?
 
Boat Life - Life Caulk works well for re-bedding deck hatches and fixtures.

If the gaskets for the port-lights show any kind of dry rot or deterioration then replace them. If they look good you might want to try and tighten up the dogs that hold the port-light closed if they're leaking. They're simple to change and not very expensive so doing it anyway just for peace of mind can't hurt.
 
Did our boat last year. Stanchions were all leaking and I have one portlight left to do this year. I used 3M UV4000 for the deck fittings and 3M marine silicone for the port lights. You'll need an entire tube per window. See below for my pictures. The port lights are tricky. You have to remove the exterior trim ring, then you will see a bunch of nuts on the outside. KEEP TRACK OF WHERE THEY GO! They're cut to fit the curve of the hull. Once loosened you'll have to clean all the dried up caulk off. I reinstalled the window, caulked the gap between the frame, then filled the trim ring with silicone and pressed it in place. The hardest part is getting to the backside of the stanchions. You might need a helper, but I was able to wedge some vicegrips inside to tighten everything down from the outside.

Any questions just ask
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Did our boat last year. Stanchions were all leaking and I have one portlight left to do this year. I used 3M UV4000 for the deck fittings and 3M marine silicone for the port lights. You'll need an entire tube per window. See below for my pictures. The port lights are tricky. You have to remove the exterior trim ring, then you will see a bunch of nuts on the outside. KEEP TRACK OF WHERE THEY GO! They're cut to fit the curve of the hull. Once loosened you'll have to clean all the dried up caulk off. I reinstalled the window, caulked the gap between the frame, then filled the trim ring with silicone and pressed it in place. The hardest part is getting to the backside of the stanchions. You might need a helper, but I was able to wedge some vicegrips inside to tighten everything down from the outside.

Any questions just ask
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Awesome. Thanks a lot. I appreciate the pictures! A little nervous about the port lights but without really knowing what I am getting into with them I can't really formulate any questions but glad that people are here on this site are always ready to provide an answer and a detailed one that!
 
Awesome. Thanks a lot. I appreciate the pictures! A little nervous about the port lights but without really knowing what I am getting into with them I can't really formulate any questions but glad that people are here on this site are always ready to provide an answer and a detailed one that!

No problem, ours are quite a bit older than yours but I can't imagine the design changed much. The key was to not touch the inside screws until you see what's under the trim ring. I started by trying to tighted them from the inside and all that does is spin the nut on the outside and shred the silicone, making the leaks worse.

The other thing that might need rebedding would be center bow rails and hatches but I haven't bothered tackling that. We don't have signs of a problem and that would mean taking the entire headliner down. I'm going to do windlass, spotlight, and foot controls this year though.
 

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