True North
Member
- Sep 11, 2012
- 165
- Boat Info
- 2005 SR 260DA
350 MAG MPI
Bravo 3
- Engines
- (1) 350 MAG MPI w/Bravo III
OK, just replaced the alternator on starboard motor for irregular voltage spikes. Now it appears I have a starter going out on my port motor, but wanted to describe the situation to verify before I go replacing it because like everything else in these old motors, it sure isn't easy to work on or access (bottom left side of the motor, have to basically take it off while laying upside down in the bilge LOL!)
Symptoms:
First off, port side starter battery has good fluid level and been on a tender off and on throughout the off season as well as hooked up to shore power charger. I verified voltage of the battery with a voltmeter at 12.8V.
Go to turn the port motor over and all I get is the "machine-gun" clicking sound. Didn't have 2 people in the boat to be able to stick my head down there to verify, but pretty sure. So here's where it gets interesting before I verified the starter battery voltage. The first time when I was running the boat on the muffs, when I had the starboard motor running at a higher rmp, I was able to get the port starter to "connect" and turn the port motor over after a few attempts, but as soon as I turned off the starboard motor and try to restart the port motor, I was not able to get the port motor to turn over, only the machine gun clicking. Then I took it one step further and hooked up my remote jump to the starter battery. First few times I turned the key I got the machine gun clicking, but then it started. I was able to reproduce this with the remote starter hooked up. Keep in mind voltage on the dash shows about 13V when the key is turned.
So, do I have a starter issue (intermittent) or a battery issue? Once the motor is running, all is good. If my battery was bad, I would think that it would reflect on my voltmeter and the dash guage??? But why will the starter work better if I hook up my remote jump starter to the battery? That's what is making me second guess the starter, and it would be a lot cheaper and easier to replace a bad battery vs. a new starter. All other power items (trim/tilt) etc. work as it should on the port motor. Thoughts?
Symptoms:
First off, port side starter battery has good fluid level and been on a tender off and on throughout the off season as well as hooked up to shore power charger. I verified voltage of the battery with a voltmeter at 12.8V.
Go to turn the port motor over and all I get is the "machine-gun" clicking sound. Didn't have 2 people in the boat to be able to stick my head down there to verify, but pretty sure. So here's where it gets interesting before I verified the starter battery voltage. The first time when I was running the boat on the muffs, when I had the starboard motor running at a higher rmp, I was able to get the port starter to "connect" and turn the port motor over after a few attempts, but as soon as I turned off the starboard motor and try to restart the port motor, I was not able to get the port motor to turn over, only the machine gun clicking. Then I took it one step further and hooked up my remote jump to the starter battery. First few times I turned the key I got the machine gun clicking, but then it started. I was able to reproduce this with the remote starter hooked up. Keep in mind voltage on the dash shows about 13V when the key is turned.
So, do I have a starter issue (intermittent) or a battery issue? Once the motor is running, all is good. If my battery was bad, I would think that it would reflect on my voltmeter and the dash guage??? But why will the starter work better if I hook up my remote jump starter to the battery? That's what is making me second guess the starter, and it would be a lot cheaper and easier to replace a bad battery vs. a new starter. All other power items (trim/tilt) etc. work as it should on the port motor. Thoughts?