Cracked Block, new block or new engine?

Freshwatercruiser

New Member
Mar 18, 2018
14
Boat Info
210 Bow Rider 1999
Engines
MCM 5.0 L EFI
Hello all, I know this has been discussed several times throughout the forum but wanted just some sound information and input from the experts on this site. I have a 1999 210 bowrider with MCM 5.0L EFI. There is a large crack in the block, has been 2 seasons since the boat has been in the water and the project has been handed over to me (family boat) From what I’ve been told the boat ran / runs great however the crack is spraying water everywhere. My question mainly is should i replace the block or do a complete swap. How much would the price vary between the two? And what are my options for a drop in motor and or what block should I be shopping for as there are a lot of opinions out there. See images for more detail, thanks in advance for any feedback!
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597A6F24-0F9D-4E8F-92E2-5AC9D81E2FB5.jpeg
 
Probably caused by poor winterization and freeze damage. Where are you located? I assume the boat is raw water cooled. If in salt water and raw water cooled then a new or remanufactured "long block" would be needed. Going by your screen name I assume you are in fresh water but the damage is still freeze related and will require a long block. Either Jasper or Michigan Motors are good sources. Are you doing the work yourself?
 
I’m in freshwater, and no I prefer not to do the work myself however was hoping to shave some of the price by buying parts myself instead of going through shop, so new 5.0 long block it is then.
 
If you are not doing the work yourself, you will be paying labor to have all the components swapped from the old motor onto the replacement long block assembly.

A new complete engine assembly will cost more in parts, but will be less labor. You should do some calculations and see what the price difference is between the 2 once labor time is considered.

I imagine that the full replacement will be more expensive overall, but may be worth the extra cost to you when you consider that everything will be new.
 
Awesome thanks for the info, I have been looking around the web trying to price out blocks vs motors, found a 5.7 EFI with 278 hours on it, not sure if its still for sale or not, for $3500. I was quoted from my mechanic when this first happened two season ago that to replace the block and get back to normal would be looking at $5000. So just weighing if 5000 would be equal to a 3500 for motor and shop work, I will just have to talk to the mechanic.
 
one question I do have to ask is why a long block? From what I was told from a mechanic friend of mine I should be looking for a short block, just want to get the information correct.
 
Another issue is the core charge for a cracked block. Remanufacturing shops want to re-use the old block, and have a sliding scale of what they will charge you based on how much they have to do to your old block to get it remanufactured. If your block is not usable by them, it may be an addional $1000 out of your pocket.
 
A new block or complete engine would obviously be the best - BUT if it is running and not mixing water into the oil then the waterjacket is not compromised internally. You said this is a hand me down boat - I might try repairing that with JB Weld, you have nothing to loose at this point and it might get you a season on the water with the boat to sort out any other issues. Issues, you might not want to invest a new or rebuilt motor into.
 
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If you have the work done by a good shop chances are they will want to to get all the parts so they can warranty it when they are done.
 
I new block or complete engine would obviously be the best - BUT if it is running and not mixing water into the oil then the waterjacket is not compromised internally. You said this is a hand me down boat - I might try repairing that with JB Weld, you have nothing to loose at this point and it might get you a season on the water with the boat to sort out any other issues. Issues, you might not want to invest a new or rebuilt motor into.
Being the cheap SOB that I am, I would go this route as well.
 
That was going to be my initial task to get the boat on the water however the crack looked way more intense than I was told, it is a hand me down by that I made a trade with my father because he is getting close to retirement so got him a golf cart. Boat has brand new interior and structurally and cosmetically is in great shape.

Based on the provided picture has anyone successfully repaired a crack of this size?
 
Not the size, but how well you can prep the area. Pics don't show it all completely. You would want to dremel a groove into the crack and do a bit of grinding in the adjacent area so the JB can get a good bite. Truly is amazing stuff.

Or if you have deep pockets, sure a new engine would be nice.
 
I’m willing to throw 4K at it right now but would like it running this season....maybe I’ll start by getting a better examination of the crack and start prepping it and see
 
I would prep it as above and get out my arc welder, as long as there is NO water in oil. 0$!!!!
 
awesome thank you everyone for the good information and I will keep yall updated on the progress!
 
Repairing that block is a risky proposition at best. It may be cracked in other areas as well that you can't see. Small block Chevies are most likely to crack in the lifter valley under the intake manifold and the result would be water in the oil.
 
Looks like it’s gunna go to the shop and see what kinda quote they throw at it and just do it the “right” way....boat didn’t cost me anything so if it cost a good bit it’ll b a worth while investment
 
A complete drop in engine from Michiganmotorz would be the best way. It's only a one day job for a DIY if you have access to a hoist. I did both of mine that way and had the boat back in the water in two days.
 
A complete drop in engine from Michiganmotorz would be the best way. It's only a one day job for a DIY if you have access to a hoist. I did both of mine that way and had the boat back in the water in two days.
I agree.
 
What about a remanufactured 5.0 ? A turn key engine is outside my available funds. Would this work with the EFI and the current manifolds on the motor I currently have? Item # 5000 RRR
 

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