40 sedan bridge forum

Do you still have the template for your boat, I am wanting to do mine, thank you
I don't directly, but Castaway Customs will. I have an electronic image of it that I asked them to send me, out of curiosity before it was installed. My bridge is the 3 helm chair version with u shaped lounge. 1998 model
 
Juergen, that is beautiful! 80 hours and it is very nice. I'll bet the next one you do you can do in under 60. When are you planning to come?

Also, are you on Keowee? I missed that lake when I ran through SC selling SnapCapn last December. I had the flu so I wasn't thinking too clearly.

Hi Andy,
thanks. Just let me know where and when ;)
I'm on lake Hartwell, just a little south of lake Keowee.
 
I found this dangling below the dashboard... I secured it to a 5" x 5" wood block, so it no longer swings around causing potential damage to the electronics and/or itself, but does anyone know what it is? Thanks in advance...
 

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I found this dangling below the dashboard... I secured it to a 5" x 5" wood block, so it no longer swings around causing potential damage to the electronics and/or itself, but does anyone know what it is? Thanks in advance...
Looks like something to do with your engine synchnoizer
 
Well that will get you puckered up first thing in the morning.... Galley sink drain re-route. 98 has a balsa core.
 

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Well that will get you puckered up first thing in the morning.... Galley sink drain re-route. 98 has a balsa core.

Wow. I'm surprised that they changed between 1998 and 2001 (Bill's boat). Make sure you epoxy the heck out of that balsa before you put the new through-hull in.
 
I was told by Sea Ray that 2001 was the changeover year. Very early 2001's are balsa sides, later 2001's are not. That was verified recently by ZZ (Bill) who installed a sink discharge on his (late 2001 no balsa) and helped a friend do it on an early 2001 that had balsa.
 
Good to know. Now that's one less project for me to do this spring seeing I have a '98. LOL.
 
I was told by Sea Ray that 2001 was the changeover year. Very early 2001's are balsa sides, later 2001's are not. That was verified recently by ZZ (Bill) who installed a sink discharge on his (late 2001 no balsa) and helped a friend do it on an early 2001 that had balsa.
As I mentioned to Mark offline, I installed the drain in both RayO (occasional poster here) 2001 and my 2001. RayO boat was built in September of 2000 and is cored. My boat was built in May of 2001 and is not cored. The other note is the non-cored hullside is thinner, about 2/3 the thickness of the cored hullside. More glass but no thick balsa.
 
Wow. I'm surprised that they changed between 1998 and 2001 (Bill's boat). Make sure you epoxy the heck out of that balsa before you put the new through-hull in.

I joined the galley sink direct drain club recently as well, I sealed the flange on the outside to the outside hull. Why do u need to epoxy the balsa? What happens if it's not epoxied?
 
I joined the galley sink direct drain club recently as well, I sealed the flange on the outside to the outside hull. Why do u need to epoxy the balsa? What happens if it's not epoxied?

All caulk breaks down over time. If you simply caulk around the hole, when it breaks down the balsa is going to act like a wick and just keep sucking in moisture = wet hull = bad bad news. The best defense against that is to epoxy the balsa core before putting the through-hull in. Then use the caulk around the through-hull fitting. The epoxy will stop any water from getting in if/when the caulk breaks down. Actually, the best defense is not to drill a hole through a balsa-cored boat in the first place....hence that "upgrade" getting scratched from my to-do list.

When Sea Ray built these boats, they made sure that the hull was solid (not balsa) in the specific areas where they planned through-hulls.
 
I joined the galley sink direct drain club recently as well, I sealed the flange on the outside to the outside hull. Why do u need to epoxy the balsa? What happens if it's not epoxied?
John explained it. Is it a high risk area for water damage? Probably not. Plus if you pack the gap between the nut and the flange with sealant before you tighten down the nut, that helps as well. I do know of one person with the cored hull that had some caulk failure and moisture penetration into the balsa around the oval stateroom windows. They dried it out and dug out the compromised balsa and sealed it with either caulk or epoxy (I don't know which one). That made them apprehensive about doing the drain mod. I don't remember who that person was....
 
Concerns? .....YES!

Anytime you drill or bore a hole in a cored area, the exposed core material and the FRP layers of the structure you expose should always be sealed with epoxy.

And don't just take my word on it... take it from our resident expert, Mr. Frank Webster, many posts earlier on this thread. :)
 
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Starboard fuel tank full-to-spitting but gauge only reads 1/2 full (Port side also full-to-spitting and reads full)... before I start trying to find the fault, thought I’d try my luck here in case anyone on this forum has/had the same issue... I’m thinking it’s either an earth fault, sender issue or gauge issue... any thoughts/suggestions where to start? Thanks in advance as always!
 
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First thing to try (and easiest) is to swap the 2 gauges. That will narrow down what the problem is.
 
I joined the galley sink direct drain club recently as well, I sealed the flange on the outside to the outside hull. Why do u need to epoxy the balsa? What happens if it's not epoxied?

And to be done right, it's not just painting some epoxy on the exposed core. That helps but core material should be removed from between the inner and outer fiberglass skins and the core and exposed inside surfaces of the skins wetted out with un-thickened epoxy, then after that begins to set up, mix another batch, this time thickening it to a consistency of mayonnaise or peanut butter and pack that into the area that was wetted out where the core was removed. If you can imagine it being like a "donut" of epoxy around the outside of the hole you drilled, you have the right idea.
 
View attachment 54266 Starboard fuel tank full-to-spitting but gauge only reads 1/2 full (Port side also full-to-spitting and reads full)... before I start trying to find the fault, thought I’d try my luck here in case anyone on this forum has/had the same issue... I’m thinking it’s either an earth fault, sender issue or gauge issue... any thoughts/suggestions where to start? Thanks in advance as always!
If it turns out to be the sender, it is accessed in the floor of the salon under the starboard sofa. There is a cover over it. Port tank sender access is under the port sofa.
 

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