Fresh water system not right

Todd320

Todd320

Well-Known Member
Jul 21, 2016
1,508
St. Petersburg, FL
Boat Info
2007 Sea Ray 320DA
Engines
Twin V-drive 5.7L 350 Horizon
my fresh water system is acting up. When I turn on the water at the galley sink, it will sometimes come out real slow, eventually build up pressure and then works. You can hear the delay of the pump not turning on. Also, the sink in the cockpit and bathroom will spit air quite a bit when turned on, and I am wondering if I have air in the system somehow and that is causing the pump to not turn on correctly, or maybe a leak causing air in the system? Steps to diagnose, possible causes?
 
I would take a hard look at your fresh water pump and look for leaks.

There should be a filter before the pump that might me clogged causing restriction.

Could also be the diaphragm or pressure sender is going on your pump which both are serviceable depending on pump.

When my pump would run but stopped building pressure I purchased a new pump head off amazon for my make and model fresh water pump for $60. It came complete with diaphragms, pressure switch and housing. All it took was to remove 3 screws and replace using the same motor.
 
Last edited:
It may be that the pump diaphragm has ruptured resulting in low pressure. What it a bit odd is that the pressure switch on the pump also seems to be acting up. If there is low pressure on the house side, the pump should switch on immediately.

A few questions:

Is the pump original or has it been replaced?

Is this something new or did it happen last season as well?

Does the pump have a filter on the tank side?
 
Mine was leaking, and was an obsolete model, so I just replaced it and the inlet filter. The pump itself was $145 on ebay for a 4 GPM (link below) and i bought a new strainer to go with it separately from West marine. I used crimp fittings with shrink tube pre-installed and put some silicone in the screw holes (PO moved to bottom of front bilge).

The old pump was 3.3 GPM, and 11A Max @12 VDC. The new Aqua King II 4 GPM was 10 A max, so I was under the previous pumps electrical load, otherwise, I would have choosen the 5 GPM, but it draws a max of 13A.

45 minute job.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shurflo-Marine-Aqua-King-II-4-0-Fresh-Water-Pump-4148-153-E75/201590727894?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
OK, Just acquired a 1997 270 Sundancer. Potable water runs only on COLD faucet at sink and head. Nothing comes out of the hot faucet (actually get a spurt when I first open the hot faucet). When I use the water heater drain spicket, I do get hot water there, AND the 12VDC OnDemand pump will kick on.

Same effect when I am on shore water.

Thoughts? I find no valve... Is there a "priming process"?

Thanks!
 
One other thing to look at, your system may have an accumulator. I think you bleed the system, then open up a port on the top and allow air in and retighten. Maybe the pump is having to refill the accumulator? Once filled/pressurized it works correctly?

Just a thought.
 
mmccoy36363 said:
OK, Just acquired a 1997 270 Sundancer. Potable water runs only on COLD faucet at sink and head. Nothing comes out of the hot faucet (actually get a spurt when I first open the hot faucet). When I use the water heater drain spicket, I do get hot water there, AND the 12VDC OnDemand pump will kick on.

Same effect when I am on shore water.

Thoughts? I find no valve... Is there a "priming process"?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Make sure your hot water heater was not disconnected as part of the winterization process by the PO.

-Kevin
 
To expand on my previous comment, don't run the hot water heater empty as it is a sure way to burn out you heater element.

-Kevin
 
PlayDate said:
A few questions:
Is the pump original or has it been replaced?
Is this something new or did it happen last season as well?
Does the pump have a filter on the tank side?
Click to expand...
Almost certainly original
Just started happening on last trip
(Note, pump still works well enough for showers, washing hands,etc)
Filter on tank side per manual, have not put eyes on it yet.
 
dtfeld said:
One other thing to look at, your system may have an accumulator. I think you bleed the system, then open up a port on the top and allow air in and retighten. Maybe the pump is having to refill the accumulator? Once filled/pressurized it works correctly?

Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Couldn’t find an accumulator in the owners manual, or the parts detail, assuming for now I don’t have one.
I did find the part, shurflo 2.8gpm, so that is helpful. Sure makes sense that I have air in the system and I need to bleed it all off. As mentioned, I need to make sure I don’t get air in the hot water heater since it will burn up the coil (part of my SOP prior to turning on the heater is to turn on all hot water spigots until I get all of the air out of the shower, sink, and transom shower)

Thanks for all the recommendations!
 
KevinC said:
To expand on my previous comment, don't run the hot water heater empty as it is a sure way to burn out you heater element.
-Kevin
Click to expand...
I did run it last weekend, no issues. Wondering if the air is getting into the cold side only. When I first bought the boat, I turned it on without running plenty of water through it and it stopped working. I got lucky though, the tank has a reset button, and I guess before any damage was done the reset button cut power to the unit, and once I found the reset button, I was able to get the tank working again. Also lucky, I was docked at Marriot Waterside in Tampa when it stopped working and so we had full use of their really nice showers, hot tubs, spa, etc.
 
mmccoy36363 said:
OK, Just acquired a 1997 270 Sundancer. Potable water runs only on COLD faucet at sink and head. Nothing comes out of the hot faucet (actually get a spurt when I first open the hot faucet). When I use the water heater drain spicket, I do get hot water there, AND the 12VDC OnDemand pump will kick on.

Same effect when I am on shore water.

Thoughts? I find no valve... Is there a "priming process"?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
There is a water manifold which controls the distribution, the water can be turned off there. That is the only thing I can think of which might cause your symptoms.
 
"water manifold"... is that the hot water system derived from the engine? I see no valves on this but will look again.

I have the land power hooked up, and I am producing hot water. I can open the drain cock at bottom of heater and get hot water... and that will force the pump on to refill. I can do the same by opening the over-heat valve.

Just not getting water (hot or cold) from opening hot water faucett. I have traced the red lines from heater throughout... I see no valves for shut off.
 
Do you get water pressure at the faucet if you are connect to city water? If so it is likely related to your pump. Then verify if your pump is pumping. Turn off your fresh water pump system. Remove the hose and quickly turn on the pump and see if it pushes out water. If not start the troubleshooting at the pump and electrical.

If no pressure at the faucet on city water then I would look to troubleshoot a blockage inline. I while ago a friend of mine had this issue. Did not use filters on city water and picked up a bunch of dirt the clogged his lines.

-Kevin
 
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