Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Table looks awesome, thx for posting! The round Frisbee table is horrible; looks lousy and way too small. I'm going to 'cheat off your paper' and get the same Marine Teak table. Did you do anything to modify the table holder in the engine room to store it, or do you just keep the table up all the time?
Keep it up all the time. Removed the table holder long ago. Takes up too much valuable space.
 
Keep it up all the time. Removed the table holder long ago. Takes up too much valuable space.
Eddie. I owe you for two great ideas: Awesome cockpit table PLUS reclaimed room in the engine room by removing goofy frisby holder. Thank you sir - Greg.
 
What a great idea for removing the table holder in the ER. I was in there today adding water to the batteries and with the 2 - 5.0 MAGS, i couldn't move.
 
What a great idea for removing the table holder in the ER. I was in there today adding water to the batteries and with the 2 - 5.0 MAGS, i couldn't move.

Ha, I also removed that holder a few years ago to give me more room. I think I did it when I had to replace the port side fuel pump. Never put it back in!
 
So you have clear lenses with red and green bulbs??? On my 05 280 I have red and green lenses per marinebeam instructions I purchased their warm white clear led bulbs and they work great. Note they recommend the warm white as cool white is too bright and you cant distinguish that hey're bow nav lights. They did recommend cool white for the all around./anchor light. Marinebeam is a little more expensive but well worth it they know boats.

Ok...wow, I'm an idiot. For some reason, I got fixated on having red and green LED lights. When, as you correctly mentioned, I already have red and green lenses! Well thank you for solving my problem, and for the light recommendation! Still need to find polarity-insensitive LED's but that will be easy with white.
 
So the carpet has been taken to the dumpster on our new to us 05 280, the foam backing is still embedded in some places but the new Infinity vinyl was installed yesterday. Our boat looks brand new.
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So I have a couple more questions about your new vinyl flooring. We love that color; it would go nicely with our black canvas. Is is hot on your feet?

Also, how does it feel underfoot? Is it soft like the carpet, or sticky, or...?

Thanks,
 
So I have a couple more questions about your new vinyl flooring. We love that color; it would go nicely with our black canvas. Is is hot on your feet?

Also, how does it feel underfoot? Is it soft like the carpet, or sticky, or...?

Thanks,
Haven't given it the 'middle of the summer test' yet I would imagine that it is hotter than carpet - but then we are always wearing boat shoes so it doesn't matter to us. It is a bit more slippery than carpet but again with boat shoes we don't notice much of a difference. It terms of softness - there is a rubber backing to it somewhat like the original carpet had so it is cushioned.
 
Ok...wow, I'm an idiot. For some reason, I got fixated on having red and green LED lights. When, as you correctly mentioned, I already have red and green lenses! Well thank you for solving my problem, and for the light recommendation! Still need to find polarity-insensitive LED's but that will be easy with white.

If the polarity is reversed why not just change out the wires to reflect the correct polarity - that way you have more options.

Here was the response on the bow nav lights from Marine beam

GE 89 replacement bulb in single contact and warm white would be the best replacement - http://store.marinebeam.com/compact-ge89-and-ge90-replacement-for-attwood-perko-tw-ge-15/
 
Having the same problem!! I am getting frustrated trying to get bluetooth on the boat. The headunit is a clarion XMD-1 and it has the aux inputs on the back but it just plays over the radio!!
Found out the Clarion XMD1 does NOT have aux inputs. Those are more outputs to the amp. The xmd1 is not compatible is what Clarion told me. Tried to sell me a M303 or M505.
 
I need to fix the A/C vent which has separated from the port side cabinet (pictures below). Can anyone tell if there is a grill. Also there doesn't appear to be an appropriate vent to direct air outside of this cabinet. Do you leave the cabinet door open. Also have a rusty hinge which I assume is from blow moist (heated) air - I figure I should be able to pick up one of these at a hardware store?

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Info needed on the 12v panel. In the picture below it shows 3 breakers for the batteries. Are these switches designed to stop (by turning off) a charge to that respective battery? If so why would they be there. I've owned several boats with multiple battery combinations and never had a breaker for individual batteries. Also the 280 manual doesn't explain this feature.

Thanks in advance for your input


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I don't have a picture of the inside of my cabinet, But I'm almost certain that I don't have that "hole" in the cabinet like your picture shows. My air is directed out the "slats" that reside over the dining table, and so i believe it is routed under the cabinet door to pass through to that center section where the slats are. I will be happy to take a better photo next time I'm at the boat, but this is all I have for now to help explain. This may be what you already know, apologies if that is the case.
 

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I need to fix the A/C vent which has separated from the port side cabinet (pictures below). Can anyone tell if there is a grill. Also there doesn't appear to be an appropriate vent to direct air outside of this cabinet. Do you leave the cabinet door open. Also have a rusty hinge which I assume is from blow moist (heated) air - I figure I should be able to pick up one of these at a hardware store?

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Like st099 says the air should come out from the slots above the dinette. My boat gang didn't like the air blowing in their faces while they sat at the table so we rigged up some deflectors that were inserted into those slots. That hole inside your cabinet looks like a poor DIY solution. On the other side of the 'wall' that the end of the cabinets is screwed onto there is an upholstered panel that can be removed or maybe go through the side of the breaker panel after the face is tipped out. I don't remember which I did but this gives access to the flex hose bringing the air. I'll bet you'll see that the hose has been moved to this new hole in the higher location.

I've been in there because the plastic fitting the hose connects to broke and the hose became disconnected. It' an awkward place to work as I remember.

The only other thing I can think of is that the end of the cabinet dropped down enough to expose the factory hole. I actually had my cabinet drop down after a really rough ride. It was sitting on the top of the seat back. I found it was only mounted with 2 small screws, they were bent and stripped out. I don't recall the hole showing though, but maybe it was.
 
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Thanks guys - any photos of the back side of this cabinet on your boats would be VERY MUCH appreciated. The 'hole' is properly cut out - so it doesn't look makeshift - although it could have been cut out by a trim carpenter or cabinetmaker. I will check underneath the hole to see if there is another one there.
 
Info needed on the 12v panel. In the picture below it shows 3 breakers for the batteries. Are these switches designed to stop (by turning off) a charge to that respective battery? If so why would they be there. I've owned several boats with multiple battery combinations and never had a breaker for individual batteries. Also the 280 manual doesn't explain this feature.

Thanks in advance for your input


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Anyone have feedback on the battery circuit breakers? See photos in a previous thread.

Again thanks in advance
 
REMOVING CURVED SEATBACK, PORTSIDE FRONT

Mine is heavily sun damaged and I wanted to get it recovered at a local shop. I spent a bit of time researching on the web, and there was very little concrete information on it. There is a post from several years back that will come up via search "water-under-aft-berth-on-280da", but the images are gone and the poster is no longer active.

I got the job done and the seatback is at the shop now. Attached is a guide I assembled with images that might be of help for someone else. Not too painful, but took a little over 2 hours to figure out and complete.
 

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Found out the Clarion XMD1 does NOT have aux inputs. Those are more outputs to the amp. The xmd1 is not compatible is what Clarion told me. Tried to sell me a M303 or M505.
not sure if i have your question right. but my 2008 dancer has a clarion out put jack at the counsel to plug in head phones etc. I reversed it at the radio to be an input . So now i can use the jack at the counsel as an aux input. I play XM from my garmin through it
 
The only other thing I can think of is that the end of the cabinet dropped down enough to expose the factory hole. I actually had my cabinet drop down after a really rough ride. It was sitting on the top of the seat back. I found it was only mounted with 2 small screws, they were bent and stripped out. I don't recall the hole showing though, but maybe it was.


We have a winner! Looks like that's exactly what happened the cabinet slid down and instead of lifting it up - it was just screwed in at that point. The plastic collar that holds the hose to the bulkhead is broken off so I'm going to glue it in temporarily while the cabinet is down - that way I hope I can get some screws in through the electrical panel opening without having to hold the collar in place. Then I'll move the entire cabinet up to its proper place. Thanks for the tip on the cabinet!
 

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