Isotherm Ice Maker

gerrpicc

Member
Apr 10, 2012
50
Lake Erie / Lake St. Clair
Boat Info
97 370 EC
Engines
T 7.4L MPI
Just picked up a 97 370 EC with the freezer in the cockpit. I'm going to replace the freezer with an ice maker. I've had U-line machines in previous boats and was happy with the way they worked. I would like however to install an Isotherm ice maker and would like to hear from anyone who has one how satisfied they are (or not). Thanks.
Looks Like this:
18609511_LRG.jpg
 
Take a look at the Isotherm clear ice machine; far better ice. And, it makes an impressive 40 pounds per day....
 
I appreciate the reply and have looked at the clear ice models. I don't have enough room for one and the compact white ice model fits perfectly where the factory cockpit freezer is currently mounted. I'm interested to hear from owners of Isotherm ice makers as to how well they do or not work.
 
I have a U-line. It works great and runs forever without any issues. The only problem is, if you do not have 110 power at the doc and you don’t/can’t run your generator the ice starts to melt then will re-freeze leaving a big block of ice.

What I installed was a “Triplite” inverter, converter, charger with its own dedicated 27 series battery. As soon as the 110vac is off the system switches to 12vdc. It can run for about 10 hours on 12vdc. No more melted ice.

I’m not sure who makes a 110vac/12vdc ice maker, but that’s the brand I’d buy. I have a Isotherm refrigerator plus a Isotherm freezer, both run on 110 or 12 v.

Bow Tie
 
I’ve replaced the inverter on each unit twice in 12 years. That would be a total of 6 including the original inverters. The freezer door leaks air causing lots of frost. The refrigerator is fine. I’m sure they are a good product, however parts are lots of money. In order to fix the door gasket, I have to buy a complete door, very expensive. I had excellent performance from the u-line and norcold products.

Bow Tie
 
I have a U-line. It works great and runs forever without any issues. The only problem is, if you do not have 110 power at the doc and you don’t/can’t run your generator the ice starts to melt then will re-freeze leaving a big block of ice.

What I installed was a “Triplite” inverter, converter, charger with its own dedicated 27 series battery. As soon as the 110vac is off the system switches to 12vdc. It can run for about 10 hours on 12vdc. No more melted ice.

I’m not sure who makes a 110vac/12vdc ice maker, but that’s the brand I’d buy. I have a Isotherm refrigerator plus a Isotherm freezer, both run on 110 or 12 v.

Bow Tie
This sounds like a great solution. Which Tripp-lite did you install?
 
Tripplite APS1250, Group 27 deep cycle battery, 12vdc charge indicator built into panel above ice maker. Check the wire guage chart to use the right wire guage based on your length & amp draw. I also used a breaker mounted close to the battery. Example: if the ice maker draws 120 vac and 3amps it will draw 30 amps at 12vdc. If I remember correctly I installed a 40 amp breaker and the ice maker draws 30 amps.

Bow Tie
 
Last edited:
I have a U-line. It works great and runs forever without any issues. The only problem is, if you do not have 110 power at the doc and you don’t/can’t run your generator the ice starts to melt then will re-freeze leaving a big block of ice.

What I installed was a “Triplite” inverter, converter, charger with its own dedicated 27 series battery. As soon as the 110vac is off the system switches to 12vdc. It can run for about 10 hours on 12vdc. No more melted ice.

I’m not sure who makes a 110vac/12vdc ice maker, but that’s the brand I’d buy. I have a Isotherm refrigerator plus a Isotherm freezer, both run on 110 or 12 v.

Bow Tie
I'm curious what you used to get your system to automatically switch between 120v and 12v or do you have to switch it manually?
 
Thosmann1 has a very nice set-up; obviously there's a guy that likes his ice.. :D

TrippLite make some great products and is probably the best way to handle this particular requirement. The set-up is involved (wiring, battery, etc.) and likely to cost well over $500. Below is the link for anyone that is curious about the autoswitchover unit.

https://www.tripplite.com/1250w-pow...er-auto-transfer-switching-2-outlets~APS1250/
 

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