Corrosion Control

dtfeld

dtfeld

Water Contrails
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Jun 5, 2016
5,551
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
Supposed to close on the 410 next week, starting to get my game plan together to address some of the known MX issues. Had a mechanic looking over a few items on the engines, and one that came up is corrosion control.

I could pay him to do this work, but paying a diesel mechanic to scrape and paint seems like overkill, so I think I'll do it and use it as an excuse to get to really know the bilge/engines.

Do you guys do your own or pay someone?

If you do your own, what process/materials do you use?
 
It’s tough. Takes a ton of time. But get familiar with your wire brushes on a drill and rotary tool. Once you get them clean then I use rustoleam rust converter which leaves a paintable surface then whatever paint you have originally.

I’ve done lots over the past 2 years but now that I have all of the deferred maintenance done I’m hiring a professional to detail an paint the engine room to the tune of 3 boat bucks.

All I can say is once you get it done you will have the motivation to keep it that way.

In addition, corrosion x should be your friend. Spray everything down with that after your done and wipe liberally. It definitely works.

Good luck
 
I did all mine myself. Hadn't ever been done by previous owners. There was very little if any heavy rust but a lot of rusty spots. Engines looked worn and dirty that way. Did not use a drill. Just brushed by hand with brass brush. Then dabbed rustleum restorer where needed, then brushed on new paint with a brush. Only time I spray with a can is painting a new part in the garage. Took several days spread over time. I just worked it in when I felt like working on it. Engines look great. Probably as good as that 3 boat dollar job Josh is going to get :). Now I just touch up once a year. There is usually very little to do.
 
Are you using brass/steel/stainless brushes? Different if different material (block are cast iron others might be Al). Recommendations on best sealers/inhibitors? I have some information on the paint I'll need, but looking for ideas on the prep work.
 
Dave - I use "Ospho" rust converter. My brilliant sister is the Chemistry major, but I believe it converts the iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate - which stops the progression of the rust. CAT Matterhorn white paint is a little expensive, but there is a Nissan equivalent in the document I sent you - "a mind is a terrible thing to lose", but I think it is KH5 Paris White from a 1989 Nissan Axcess...Thanks FrankW from years ago....
 
carterchapman said:
Dave - I use "Ospho" rust converter. My brilliant sister is the Chemistry major, but I believe it converts the iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate - which stops the progression of the rust. CAT Matterhorn white paint is a little expensive, but there is a Nissan equivalent in the document I sent you - "a mind is a terrible thing to lose", but I think it is KH5 Paris White from a 1989 Nissan Axcess...Thanks FrankW from years ago....
Click to expand...

Thanks Carter. I did see the paint, I'll look up Ospho. My brilliant brother is a Dr., and better looking to boot.

So I'm thinking the process is

1. Wash (carefully) with Saltaway. Might as well remove the main contaminant and let dry. Not sure if this removes oil/grease.
2. Scrape/brush loose material
3. Apply rust inhibitor (Ospho)
4. Prime
5. Paint

Amazon even has a kit for this along with a pretty decent selection of rotary wire brushes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02CD...t=&hvlocphy=9010756&hvtargid=pla-311564357921
 
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You will have to wash after you wore brush. The dust will be everywhere so just save the was step until then. I just use cheap drill brushes from harbor freight or hone depot or whatever. Nothing special but you will need multiple sizes
 
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