Switch Panel going haywire!

Seevee

Member
Dec 3, 2015
238
St. Pete, FL
Boat Info
280 Sundancer 2004
Engines
4.3 Merc Twins, Alpha One, Kohler 5kw
IMG_3770.JPG
The electrical pad for lights, stereo, horn etc. is going haywire.

It's part no. 1718618
Description: MODULE, ELEC SWPAD S-CRUISER STBD CNVX RV2

What is doing is that sometimes a switch doesn't work, then I push the next switch ant the first one works. The lights quit when I pushed the stereo button, pushed the stereo button again and the lights came on. Then pushed other buttons and got strange reactions. Pushed the bilge light and the horn blew.

Suspect I've got some moisture in it, and need to dry it out, but it's been really wet all day long. Will put a heater on it later.

Anyone had this happen?

And if needed, does anyone have a source for these? Last time I check they were not being manufactured.
 
They should be available but only in black. The wood burl is a plastic cover that can be swapped over from the old to the new if interested. A few members have just recently swapped them out.

-Kevin
 
They should be available but only in black. The wood burl is a plastic cover that can be swapped over from the old to the new if interested. A few members have just recently swapped them out.

-Kevin

Kevin,

Who sells them? I check with Sea Ray a while ago and they said they didn't have them and don't support them anymore. I know they are used on a LOT of boats, SeaRay and others. Thx.
 
I have not purchased them however I spoke with a owner that said he got it from the local dealer. I also see at least one available on eBay.

-Kevin
 
Boat Manufactures just need to keep their buttons simple.

I would hate to have a boat that becomes inoperable because of some dash panel that went haywire and can't be replaced.

I bet if you take that panel out of the dash and take it to a small electronics place they can take it apart and see what's going on. Reconnect loose connection and clean off any corrosion that might be present.
 
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you may only find 4,5,or 6 wires on those panels. they go to the EIM module
that has all the needed wires for all the circuits.
Worst case would be to install a new panel and hardwire the circuits
 
you may only find 4,5,or 6 wires on those panels. they go to the EIM module
that has all the needed wires for all the circuits.
Worst case would be to install a new panel and hardwire the circuits

Ya, that's my understanding, but a bit vague on how it works. Overall, I'm not a fan of touch pads and in favor of switches which are MUCH easier to deal with. I'm gonna call my Merc dealer to see if they can help with aftermarket part numbers.
 
Personally I would have preferred that Sea Ray would have stuck with Carling switches wired to a traditional relay box. If one switch went bad you only need to replace one piece not some over priced module. Sometimes simplicity is better. If your away on a trip and the switch pad fails your not likely to find one available and all your switches would be out - however - a single carling switch would be relatively easy to find and replace or bypass with something else until a permanent repair can be made.

-Kevin
 
Simply the EIM contains the power ,fuses and relays that turn the items on and off . A coded signal is sent to the eim , decoded and the correct item powered up.
Never was a fan of these fancy electronic items in a salt water enviroment.
Dedicated switches can simply be replaced without have to replace a complete dash assembly.
Seems like the imported Euro Engineers like curved surfaces and these electronic panels fit the build. Think like an American Engineer and re-engineer the panel for regular switches.
 
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I think that EIM thing has been one of Sea Ray’s worst screwups. And on my boat, not only is the EIM itself a problem but for some reason they installed the EIM box that contains the breaker for the hatch lift motor below deck, inside the bilge. Whoever made that decision must have been absent from boat school the day they were teaching about boats.
 
that is one item I recommend to hard wired power cord directly to the lift motor(s) and place the wire in a convenient location to jumper or plug into a battery
 
I think that EIM thing has been one of Sea Ray’s worst screwups. And on my boat, not only is the EIM itself a problem but for some reason they installed the EIM box that contains the breaker for the hatch lift motor below deck, inside the bilge. Whoever made that decision must have been absent from boat school the day they were teaching about boats.

Yes, SeaRay has made some screwups and the panel was one. I'll never have a boat with that again. that hatch breaker qualifies for a Darwin award!

Well, my partner found both left and right panels and bought them. Not cheap. Like to have spares so the boat has minimal downtime, especially in the summer. Need to look into it a bit more and be sure it's not an EIM thing. If anyone knows how to test the EIM, let me know, and I'll take to a few mechanics I know.
 
Another question....

After talking with SeaRay support, they say there's a connection block to the generator from the panel, to supply power to the blower.

And that block is a source of failure and can be bypassed. Tech said it's behind the instrument panel, which I can't find. The wires from the electrical panel (both sides) go into a bundle and back toward the bilge. I've searched back there and can't find it.

Does anyone know where this is?

Thanks
 
Another question....

After talking with SeaRay support, they say there's a connection block to the generator from the panel, to supply power to the blower.

And that block is a source of failure and can be bypassed. Tech said it's behind the instrument panel, which I can't find. The wires from the electrical panel (both sides) go into a bundle and back toward the bilge. I've searched back there and can't find it.

Does anyone know where this is?

Thanks


SeeVee, Im curious if you ever had any luck finding this? My starboard switch panel is going nuts (flashing all LED's) and it happened when my generator bilge blower switch apparently failed. It wasn't working and when I tried it again, it sent it into this "all lights blinking tantrum" Unfortunately I now don't have any control of anything on the starboard switch panel, and the generator start/run, on, and bilge blower switches won't work.
 

I did confirm that all switches on the port switch panel work, and there are items on that panel that are in both the forward and aft EIMs, so I am currently assuming that the EIM's are okay, is that a poor assumption? Oddly, there is an on/off type electronic cycling sound coming from the generator at the same cadence that the starboard keypad lights are flashing and the generator start stop switch is flashing.
 
My local boat dealership was able to order these direct from Sea Ray for around $338 plus shipping/tax...cheaper than eBay. He suggested replacing this control panel first before fixing the EIMs. He also said that some of these EIMs are not available now. But you can find them online. I am hopeful this will fix my issues with my trim tabs, fan, bilge pump...I currently have to hit mine to work. and it blinks on and off like the exorcist has possessed it. I know that the Port side controller had been replaced so I'm assuming this board is dead too.
 
Mine flickering and going crazy just yesterday! O the Joy's of electronics.... anyone have a link to get this soft key pads for the best price?
 
Mine flickering and going crazy just yesterday! O the Joy's of electronics.... anyone have a link to get this soft key pads for the best price?

Not cheap but a couple are available on ebay...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-SE...017445&hash=item41a9885a39:g:8OMAAOSw-tNXHoMN

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-SE...239511&hash=item41a9daf0a2:g:WtcAAOSwZAtXJQcC

These only come in black but you can move the wood grain panel from one to the other.

BTW, if you happen to replace the port side one I am looking for an intact cover as mine cracked. I don't care it it is wood grain or black - just not broken - thanks.

Currently the only other alternative would be a complete new system from Flounder Pounder and at much higher price than just the pad (its a switch panel and relay box).

-Kevin
 

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