Progress 1 issues.

kat66t

New Member
Jun 4, 2016
9
Rochester, Ny Lake Ontario
Boat Info
1997 330 DA Sundancer. 4.5 KW Westerbeke.
Engines
7.4 MPI closed cooling Mercuiser's w/ v drives
Having the Progress 1 finger issues we have all heard about. (Broken stud on finger tension spring) I am seriously considering going with all chain. Right now I have 5/16 BBB attached to old 200' of anchor line. I want to go with 1/4" HT at 150'. We really only anchor out when it's pretty calm so the non give/spring factor should be minimal. Any input would be appreciated!
 
following this thread with interest as I am considering the same thing....

good luck....

cliff
 
I still have the Progress 1 finger, but still had a problem with the chain rope splice. I went with all chain a few months ago and like it.
 
I'm thinking of adding another 25' of G4 chain to my existing 25' but am wondering how the link to join them will run through the gypsy? Anyone use one of these with good results?
 

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There is a discussion of those at the West Marine site. They don't have the same strength rating (SWL) as the chain, and are not recommended for windlass use. However, some do use them for just that.
 
I have added 175 ft of chain to my OEM rode and 25 feet of OEM chain. I put the 175 feet after the 25ft and used a stainless link of roughly the same size to link the two sections. Since I never anchor in water deeper than needed for the 175 ft, I never have the link go through the windlass. But I have the original rode length there in case of an emergency.
You don't want to use different chain size than the size required as it will wear out your gipsy.

Added benefit is more weight in the bow helps with planning without increasing the tab size.
 
I have added 175 ft of chain to my OEM rode and 25 feet of OEM chain. I put the 175 feet after the 25ft and used a stainless link of roughly the same size to link the two sections. Since I never anchor in water deeper than needed for the 175 ft, I never have the link go through the windlass. But I have the original rode length there in case of an emergency.
You don't want to use different chain size than the size required as it will wear out your gipsy.

Added benefit is more weight in the bow helps with planning without increasing the tab size.

That is an awesome idea!

I'm never in any water deeper than 20' and it's always calm, so for me, adding just 100 feet onto the front and then using that splice to join to the OEM links would work out perfectly where the link would never pass through the gypsy. I also love the isea of not having to use the tabs as much.
 
Good point Creeekwood on the wear factor. Thanks.

In talking with a very accomodating bulk chain supplier she is sending me 3' sections of several samples of 1/4" and 5/16" chain. All different grades, all HDG (some windlass approved some not) to try in my gypsy.
She says she runs into this all the time. People order for a windlass and it won't work based on the link size and spacing. Some of the non marine will work in gypsies it just needs to be tried out..... I also typically anchor in less than 50' of depth and calm water. So the "give" factor that one gets with line vs chain is for me a non factor. Added weight in the bow will be welcome.
 
Having the Progress 1 finger issues we have all heard about. (Broken stud on finger tension spring) I am seriously considering going with all chain. Right now I have 5/16 BBB attached to old 200' of anchor line. I want to go with 1/4" HT at 150'. We really only anchor out when it's pretty calm so the non give/spring factor should be minimal. Any input would be appreciated!
Fwiw - I modified my unit and posted some pictures of what I did in an effort to make the finger work without breaking the stud- take a look... I am sticking with my chain set up which is about 25' chain and 150 line. See post 38 for my update
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...-it-windlass-finger-stud-sheared.84633/page-2
 
Fwiw - I modified my unit and posted some pictures of what I did in an effort to make the finger work without breaking the stud- take a look... I am sticking with my chain set up which is about 25' chain and 150 line. See post 38 for my update
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...-it-windlass-finger-stud-sheared.84633/page-2

You really should find a way to make/sell those brackets in volume. Maybe partner your idea with a local machine shop and sell them on eBay. I would buy one and use it to prevent damage if they were available. I suspect in this internet day and age, you would not even have to market it. Its really a great design.
 
You really should find a way to make/sell those brackets in volume. Maybe partner your idea with a local machine shop and sell them on eBay. I would buy one and use it to prevent damage if they were available. I suspect in this internet day and age, you would not even have to market it. Its really a great design.
Thanks - I made a hand sketch and turned this over to one of my r&d guys who is a good machinist and whola. I may detail it and the shaft up and make a couple more...
 
Thanks - I made a hand sketch and turned this over to one of my r&d guys who is a good machinist and whola. I may detail it and the shaft up and make a couple more...

My stud is still fine, so I would remove the nut on top and use the bracket to support the whole assembly, which I think would help prevent finger or stud damage. Do you think it would work like that?
 
My stud is still fine, so I would remove the nut on top and use the bracket to support the whole assembly, which I think would help prevent finger or stud damage. Do you think it would work like that?
It would - the hole in the top of the bracket would be slightly loose as you would have sharpe threads hitting a smooth bore - ulitimatly it would keep the shaft from bending as well. I'll let you know if I can get a few more made
 

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