Bravo 3 Uni-Joints

SeaJay62

Member
Jan 5, 2016
87
Perth, Western Australia
Boat Info
2001 Sundancer 240
Engines
Mercruiser 383 Mag Stroker MPI , Bravo III
2017-12-15 16.03.48.jpg
2017-12-15 16.03.24.jpg
I removed the outdrive on my Bravo 3, and water has been getting in somehow, how is the driveshaft removed to replace the U joints, or is there a tool or trick to replace them without removing the shaft from the outdrive? I have a new gimbal bearing and bellows kit to go in, and the tool kit to do the job, but this is the first time I have worked on an outdrive.

Stuart
 
To remove the entire shaft, you need to do some disassembly of the upper gear case. Sorry, I don't have the procedure handy.

You could also try something like the Tiger tool 10105.

It is designed to remove U-joints with the drive shaft in place.
0007089_tiger-tool-10105-universal-joint-puller-driveline-tool.jpeg
 
With all that rust probably a good idea to pull the pinion assembly and look at the seals and mating surfaces.
The pinion pulls right out by removing the 1 big nut with the notches, needs a special tool and 200 ft/lbs of torque on reassembly
 
If you haven't ordered it yet, The price dropped from $175 to $99 on Amazon! Could be a limited time special.
 
I just remove the clips and tap out universals with a large wooden dowel and a hammer. Support the assembly on an anvil. Lots of WD-40 first. Tap new ones in the same way. If not totally seized, should come out. Yours look pretty rusted, though.
 
I had ordered what I thought was a complete puller off ebay, turns out it was just the forcing screw (bolt) for $90usd, amazon wont ship to Australia, so now that Christmas is over I will have to get a bit more serious.. bloody pissed off with that ebay purchase, should have read the fine print
 
Off your topic but,
I’ll assume your replacing the gimbal bearing and bellows too.
 
yes I have the gimbal bearing and bellows kit to go in, I have just removed the u-joint closest to the outdrive so have the driveshaft separated now, used a gear puller combined with my pissed off attitude regarding that ebay purchase. Looks like there is 4 bolts holding down the top cover of the bravo 3, if I remove them is it easy to undo and remove the drive yoke to inspect/replace the seal?
 
thanks Bt Doctur, I may just remove the cover and make sure it looks good in there, and drain off some oil to see if water has got in at all
 
I have installed the new gimbal bearing, U-joints and bellows kit. I am wondering if its possible to drain the gearbox oil out of the B3 outdrive, then refill it by pouring it in thru the inspection plate on top before I refit the outdrive?
 
Nope, dosent work that way and if you done believe me it will cost you a new outdrive. It uses approx 3 Qts but you fill from the bottom plug untill it comes out the top plug.
 
another question, I nipped the retaining nut for the shift cable up tight instead of leaving it 1 turn loose, will this do any harm?
 
another question, I nipped the retaining nut for the shift cable up tight instead of leaving it 1 turn loose, will this do any harm?
Do you mean the shift cable at the throttle linkage on top of the motor? If that’s too tight, the plastic sleeve will bind and the shift cable throws could be off. There should be a lock nut on there so it doesn’t back off even though it’s not snugged down tight.
 
If you are talking about the transom side where the cable threads into the bell housing. The instructions on an Alpha are the same, leave 2 threads showing - I "think" this is to help prevent corrosion at the fitting - I know even on my freshwater boat the was a real PIA to get out. I don't think that will impact how the cable performs.
 
I was talking about the outdrive end of the shift cable, where it goes thru the gimbal, I have to remove it all again to do the water hose so I will leave it one turn loose this time
 

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