Official 390 E.C. Thread

Fireball-- I removed the tank from my 390 and I did not have to remove the fridge/step wall. Remove all stringers and plywood and the supports around the large hatch, the tank can slide forward and as it slides forward lift the front of tank and pivot out from under the wall, its very tight and you'll be bitchin but it does come out.

I no longer have the 390 but I owned my 1989 for ten years before moving up to 420.

I had the factory installed aluminum tank that started leaking the first year I owned the boat. I removed tank cleaned all the pinholes on the bottom, sealed them with epoxy and "urea" (truck bed liner). This held up the next 9 years until the boat was totaled by ins co.
 
Fireball-- I removed the tank from my 390 and I did not have to remove the fridge/step wall. Remove all stringers and plywood and the supports around the large hatch, the tank can slide forward and as it slides forward lift the front of tank and pivot out from under the wall, its very tight and you'll be bitchin but it does come out.

I no longer have the 390 but I owned my 1989 for ten years before moving up to 420.

I had the factory installed aluminum tank that started leaking the first year I owned the boat. I removed tank cleaned all the pinholes on the bottom, sealed them with epoxy and "urea" (truck bed liner). This held up the next 9 years until the boat was totaled by ins co.


Sublimetime... I'll have to try that when I get back up the the boat... Sorry to hear about your 390. I hear the 420s are a nice option. What happened that caused the ins co. to total out the 390?
 
Sublimetime... I'll have to try that when I get back up the the boat... Sorry to hear about your 390. I hear the 420s are a nice option. What happened that caused the ins co. to total out the 390?

I would say Sublimetime being from NJ that Sandy had something to do with the demise of his 390.
 
Boat hit a piling which caused the foredeck to separate from the hull, and it shifted over. This caused all the cabinetry inside to shift and open cracks. Top deck would have to be completely separated from hull to repair to 100%.

The insurance surveyor claim----This boat is in Bristol condition, and would not be able to be put back in this condition for less than 62000.00, so they paid claim in full.
I hated to see that boat go after 9 years of intense work to make the boat better than new.

BUT-- I now love my 420 as much being it is very comparable to the 390 layout, just with another 7 feet of more boat, and not having prop pockets like the 390 it handles much better around the docks.
 
Sublimetime
Sorry to hear about your 390, the 420 is a great boat also, I've thought about going a little bigger but like you have years of work (15) I do not want to do again on another boat, and no matter what you buy they all need something.
You are right if you cut out some more floor you can get the tank out in one piece, I looked at coating like you did but decided on new poly tank.
 
If I had to replace a tank again I would definitely go with plastic. Since you are dumping the old tank, If you put a dent in the top just under that wall it will make pivoting up and out that much easier.
 
I’m just starting the process of bringing my 390 up to my style with updates and more.. It is definitely a labor of love. I’m guessing this process never stops,, LoL. I appreciate all that went before on this quest, the information and guidance. It’s been a great start. With regards to the tank, I think it makes sense to to just replace with a poly tank. I don’t want to have to replace it again in 10 Years, it is a pain in the ass for sure.
 
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Time to drill again,, maybe when it warms above 10 deg. lol
 
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It’s zero degrees and snowing so I started picking up the new speakers for the 390. I decided to build my system with Polk. Any thoughts?? The first set arrived today.
 
Well the next step complete. Thank God!! Good core samples, no rott. Any thoughts on locating a
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tank under the forward bed? I was thinking how much room there is where the old tank was located and would make great storage space.
 
If you look at Pietro's build thread he has installed a second tank in the forward berth under the bed. The big issue doing this is running the new lines to get water to/from that tank. Requires a lot of interior removal.
 
If you look at Pietro's build thread he has installed a second tank in the forward berth under the bed. The big issue doing this is running the new lines to get water to/from that tank. Requires a lot of interior removal.

Thanks for the info. I cannot find Pietro's build thread for some reason. LoL
 
Yes, my boat is in the water and has been through all of this trouble. Thats the number one reason I have pretty much ruled out hull issues since I have periods of up to 2 weeks with no water. If you get a chance I'd like to see pics where you put these access holes before I go opening things up. Thanks.
I am in the process of changing out my tank this winter, it is a 101 gallon aluminum tank, I found a custom welded poly tank from Dura Weld located in Florida, they are able to make whatever size you need and install fill, vent, sender and pick-up wherever you want them, the largest I could install was approximately 70 gallons 11" x 27" x 55", it was the only poly tank I could find where they could install baffles, it was supposed to ship Friday so I am expecting it soon.


Hello Ricochet, Did you get your poly tank installed? How was the quality? Dura Weld is getting a quote to me for my tank hopefully tomorrow.
 
I do not have it installed yet, kind of busy over the holidays, I just brought it up to the storage building today, I was impressed with the quality, it was made exactly to the drawing I provided and shipped exactly when they said it would. I talked to Garth and he said they pressure test the tank for leaks also.
 
I do not have it installed yet, kind of busy over the holidays, I just brought it up to the storage building today, I was impressed with the quality, it was made exactly to the drawing I provided and shipped exactly when they said it would. I talked to Garth and he said they pressure test the tank for leaks also.[/QUOTE

Holidays were busy and I'm glad we're back to normal. I wish that I had stored inside this year to make it easier to get work done on the boat. The weather as just been to dang cold. I'm glad to hear the quality is where it should be. When I spoke with Garth today he said there would be about a 3 to 4 week lead time. I'm hoping it doesn't take that long.
 
Fireball1

I did a dry fit today and everything was good, I need to do a little work for the final mounting and support, I am going to mount it on 1/4" thick x 1" wide strips of starboard to keep it off the floor.
 

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Fireball1

I did a dry fit today and everything was good, I need to do a little work for the final mounting and support, I am going to mount it on 1/4" thick x 1" wide strips of starboard to keep it off the floor.
That looks great!! I received my quote and was a bit taken back. So I decided to look for another supplier. Thankfully I found one. The only difference is the inlet fittings will be on the end of the tank. I’m ok with the location since I’m keeping the tank off the bulkhead a foot for access to the plate in the floor. I’ll post pictures when I receive the tank.
 
So I have the older electronics and a somewhat newer Garman on my boat. I’m thinking I would like to update the electronics maybe for next season but what would make more sense? I’m looking at the Flir M-series night vision. I almost think I would prefer to go that route over a new radar system. At least to begin with. I would like to change out all gauges and everything and will. I just think I’m running out of time to have that completed before the season starts. Any thoughts?
 

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