Official 390 E.C. Thread

Im up on the salt river this year. That marina sucked and it was really expensive. I summer at Michigan Marine Salvage though right up the river.
Are in yaEd there this winter? I'm at south river for winter outside. What do they charge at salt river?
 
Hello, new to the site and a proud (new) owner of an 89' 390 EC. I can't wait to get on the water in 2018!! But, first things first.. This site rocks!! Thanks to all that provide knowledge to us newbies. I love reading about all the projects out there. I am gearing up for some refit action.. Slow and steady.. First question: From what I am gathering it is a must to add extra Trim Tabs? So, I'm thinking on going with Livorsi 1150 multi step taps on the inside of the prop tunnels. They are 12" wide and 30" long. I will also add to the existing outer tabs to create additional lift. Any thoughts? I know many have went with the 12x12 Bennet but I'm thinking a bit more lift would be beneficial. Look forward to hearing from you all...Thanks so much
 
Wow 12X30 Livorsi. IMO that may be overkill and very expensive as well. 30in will extend out past the end of the swim platform. Mine are 12X18 and fixed in a slight downward angle. I also added 3in to the outer tabs. That is enough and the boat stays on plane down to 14 mph.
 
Thanks for the quick response hottoddie. There is a 22" and 28" option as well. I'm usually of the mind set "more is better" in most cases, not all though. With the tabs, I'm sure there is a sweet spot. What brand Tabs did you go with and ball park cost?
 
Thanks for the quick response hottoddie. There is a 22" and 28" option as well. I'm usually of the mind set "more is better" in most cases, not all though. With the tabs, I'm sure there is a sweet spot. What brand Tabs did you go with and ball park cost?

I went with 12x12 inside the tunnels. They are plumbed in to the existing pump. The boat rides at a better angle, picked up a little cruise speed and planes slower. I can bury the bow when it gets rough and have a smooth ride. I got them surplus at flounder pounder under $300.
 
The long tabs are for go-fast boats with less of the hull in the water. I had them on my 42' Cigarette.

12x12 between the tunnels is plenty for this boat.

I tied mine into the factory tab lines and it drops the bow just fine. With tabs 1/2 way extended at 19 MPH if I retract them to flat the boat loses 3 MPH so they do help it run more efficiently.

Never checked the minimum planing speed with the tabs...
 
Does anyone know if there is 110v in bilge other than hot water feed on a 390 EC. I need to hook up a 110 rec as easy as possible...??
 
Thanks for the quick response hottoddie. There is a 22" and 28" option as well. I'm usually of the mind set "more is better" in most cases, not all though. With the tabs, I'm sure there is a sweet spot. What brand Tabs did you go with and ball park cost?

I fabricated my own from a pair of old tabs I had kicking around from my last boat. I used a pair of old Bennett actuators as well but mounted them rigid and did not plumb them in the existing tabs. It wasn't needed. My cost was almost 0$.
 
I fabricated my own from a pair of old tabs I had kicking around from my last boat. I used a pair of old Bennett actuators as well but mounted them rigid and did not plumb them in the existing tabs. It wasn't needed. My cost was almost 0$.
I did this as well by adding 4” of length to a 12”X12” Bennett tab. I used shims inside the Bennett actuators and placed the tabs at approximately 10 degrees. I also added drop fins to the outsides of the outer tabs. Like everyone else said the results are night and day.
 
I'm thinking on going with the Bennet Sport Tabs system they have a 12" x 16" option and adding to the exiting outer Tabs. Or maybe replacing them with larger ones. I'll keep you all posted with pictures when I get to that point when the weather breaks.
Well I ran up to check on the boat yesterday and take measurements for projects I would like to get started on and I noticed dirty water in my forward Bilge at the bulkhead. Last I was up was about 4 weeks ago when I shrink wrapped her. I had the Bilge areas spotless. This is what I now have. Appears to have come through the bulkhead where the water lines go through. Bow is up so any water would flow to stern. Well,, hope for some good advice, lol..
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I'm thinking on going with the Bennet Sport Tabs system they have a 12" x 16" option and adding to the exiting outer Tabs. Or maybe replacing them with larger ones. I'll keep you all posted with pictures when I get to that point when the weather breaks.
Well I ran up to check on the boat yesterday and take measurements for projects I would like to get started on and I noticed dirty water in my forward Bilge at the bulkhead. Last I was up was about 4 weeks ago when I shrink wrapped her. I had the Bilge areas spotless. This is what I now have. Appears to have come through the bulkhead where the water lines go through. Bow is up so any water would flow to stern. Well,, hope for some good advice, lol..
View attachment 52257

View attachment 52255 View attachment 52256
 
This tea stained water looks like it comes from the foamed in area below the floor ahead of the bulkhead. Other than a leaking fresh water tank, I am not quite sure how that water is getting into the foam.
 
This tea stained water looks like it comes from the foamed in area below the floor ahead of the bulkhead. Other than a leaking fresh water tank, I am not quite sure how that water is getting into the foam.

X2 on the water tank. Has it been changed?

Fireball, you may want to change the hose connected to the sea cock. That white hose is sanitation hose and not wire reinforced water hose.
 
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I pulled the step out to see if the tank has been changed, and that would be a negative.. I will be pulling the tank for sure just to be on the safe side. (Any specs on a poly tank and lead on best place to buy?). Also thanks for the info on the hose I didn’t notice that. I will be inspecting all the hoses to make sure they are proper. This is a visual of the bilge.
 
The OEM tank is 100 gallon (I believe galvanized steel). They will rust out eventually. I was lucky that mine was changed already when I bought the boat 7 years ago. Most replace with a 85 (or so) gallon poly tank. Google marine water tanks and you will find one that will fit. A word of caution, the poly tank will expand vertically as it is filled and push up on the cabin floor. Some heavy duty bracing is needed to keep the tank in place.

I wonder how many 390s out there have wet floors and stringers because of the leaking tanks. As far as I know mine is dry as I don't get any "tea" colored water leaking from the bulkhead area and the floor around the tank is solid. What year did Sea Ray stop using the galvanized water tanks? Many with the 400EC line?
 
I am in the process of changing out my tank this winter, it is a 101 gallon aluminum tank, I found a custom welded poly tank from Dura Weld located in Florida, they are able to make whatever size you need and install fill, vent, sender and pick-up wherever you want them, the largest I could install was approximately 70 gallons 11" x 27" x 55", it was the only poly tank I could find where they could install baffles, it was supposed to ship Friday so I am expecting it soon.
 
Ricochet do you feel like the baffles are needed? I measured my tank and calculated it's volume at 85 gallons and I'm pretty sure it does not have any baffles. It is shallow enough and in a central low point in the boat that I would guess baffles would not be needed.
 
The original tank is 101 gallons and has two baffles, I feel more comfortable with the baffles in the replacement tank, I decided to go with the welded poly so that I did not have the expansion issues others have mentioned. It is more money for the welded poly but it is (hopefully) a one time deal. My original tank was 11" x 30" x 73".
 
No doubt you'll be fine with that tank. FWIW I have full size removable hatch in the floor above my tank. Didn't want to cover the tank over with no access.
 

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