40 sedan bridge forum

My engine survey came back and the only issues were worn belts and they recommend changing the transmission fluid. I have serviced the transmissions on my 340 and have changed belts on numerous engines over the years.

For those that have serviced the transmission is there a drain accessible on this boat and is there a filter screen to clean like the v drive on the 340? What is the recommended fluid and should it be changed while warm?

Thanks to everyone who has chimed in with answers to my questions so far. I should be taking possession later this week and the plan is to take it up the bay from Portsmouth to Urbanna on Saturday.
 
For those that have serviced the transmission is there a drain accessible on this boat and is there a filter screen to clean like the v drive on the 340? What is the recommended fluid and should it be changed while warm?.

OK, no help in 2 days so I'll try although I do not have the same power train as yours.
I have the ZF 280-1A transmissions, I do not know if that is what they coupled behind the Cats, maybe it is with a different gear ratio. Check the plate on the tranny for that info.
If it is a ZF 280-1A, it uses Straight 30 wt engine oil. I use Rotella, but any good straight 30 will do. Because there is limited space under the transmission to get a drain pan under there, I start by running the engine and bumping the gear in and out of forward and reverse to stir things up a little. Be careful you don't pull any dock cleats out.
I suck the oil out of the dipstick hole using a piece of tubing long enough to reach the bottom of the tranny. After that, I put a small container (anything that will fit) under the drain plug and remove the plug, another 6 or 8 ounces will come out, and this will be the dirty stuff if there is dirty stuff because the suction tube doesn't quite get to the lowest point. The gasket is a crush washer on the plug so look for it and you reuse it.
Then you remove the filter screen. It is behind a magnetized plug on the lower left side as you look at it from the rear. 36mm. Start with the starboard side tranny because it is the easy one to get at, then you will be warmed up for the port side. The filter on the port side is tough to get at because of a cross member that runs right behind the tranny on that side. After removing the filter the first time, I drilled a 7/8 diameter hole through the cross member right behind the filter plug and I can now get a socket on the filter cover and insert an extension through the hole to turn it.
Filter cover also has a reusable crush washer for a gasket. Wipe the "hair" off the magnet, clean the stainless steel filter screen with brake Kleen or mineral spirits, dry and reinstall.
Capacity is between 4 and 4 1/4 qts. fill to between the marks on the dipstick. Run the engine for few minutes, shut down and wait a few minutes for oil to settle from the cooler and lines then check to be sure oil is between the lines on the stick.
Couple of pics to help.
IMG_0527.JPG

Above is the filter cover-36mm socket size, drain plug can be partially seen under the shaft flange

Below is the port side showing the access hole I drilled for removing the filter cover.
The cross member is 3/4 ply, after drilling, wet it out with epoxy.
IMG_0525.JPG

IMG_0524.JPG

So if it's a ZF 280-1A, that's about it
Enjoy the new boat!
 
Mark, thanks for the helpful instructions. I change my transmission oil annually through the dipstick like you recommend, but cheat and don't pull the drain plug. Does that take a 22MM wrench?

Also, I believe they mated the CAT 3116 with the ZF 220A-1 on the 400DB.
 
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OK, no help in 2 days so I'll try although I do not have the same power train as yours.
I have the ZF 280-1A transmissions, I do not know if that is what they coupled behind the Cats, maybe it is with a different gear ratio. Check the plate on the tranny for that info.
If it is a ZF 280-1A, it uses Straight 30 wt engine oil. I use Rotella, but any good straight 30 will do. Because there is limited space under the transmission to get a drain pan under there, I start by running the engine and bumping the gear in and out of forward and reverse to stir things up a little. Be careful you don't pull any dock cleats out.
I suck the oil out of the dipstick hole using a piece of tubing long enough to reach the bottom of the tranny. After that, I put a small container (anything that will fit) under the drain plug and remove the plug, another 6 or 8 ounces will come out, and this will be the dirty stuff if there is dirty stuff because the suction tube doesn't quite get to the lowest point. The gasket is a crush washer on the plug so look for it and you reuse it.
Then you remove the filter screen. It is behind a magnetized plug on the lower left side as you look at it from the rear. 36mm. Start with the starboard side tranny because it is the easy one to get at, then you will be warmed up for the port side. The filter on the port side is tough to get at because of a cross member that runs right behind the tranny on that side. After removing the filter the first time, I drilled a 7/8 diameter hole through the cross member right behind the filter plug and I can now get a socket on the filter cover and insert an extension through the hole to turn it.
Filter cover also has a reusable crush washer for a gasket. Wipe the "hair" off the magnet, clean the stainless steel filter screen with brake Kleen or mineral spirits, dry and reinstall.
Capacity is between 4 and 4 1/4 qts. fill to between the marks on the dipstick. Run the engine for few minutes, shut down and wait a few minutes for oil to settle from the cooler and lines then check to be sure oil is between the lines on the stick.
Couple of pics to help.
View attachment 51362
Above is the filter cover-36mm socket size, drain plug can be partially seen under the shaft flange

Below is the port side showing the access hole I drilled for removing the filter cover.
The cross member is 3/4 ply, after drilling, wet it out with epoxy.
View attachment 51364
View attachment 51363
So if it's a ZF 280-1A, that's about it
Enjoy the new boat!

Thank you for the detailed instructions. Sounds like it should be very similar to the v drives on my 340.
 
Thanks for the instructions. I did my trans this year, and ran into the "access challenge". It took me a few trips back to the home garage toolbox where I found a shallow 36mm and ratchet to fit. <Hi, my name is Paul, and yes I too have a problem with too many tools>

The ony thing I did different was drain direct from the 36mm plug into a shallow pan, sucking from the pan using the reverso pump. A little nutty of an approach, but worked well.


I can only guess that that stringer was designed around the CAT power, and not an issue with access. When Sea Ray repowered with Cummins, they should have had the engineers widen the shaft pass through by 2 inches, as that would have made maintenance easier. ....or somebody is reading this thread years later and laughing.
 
Mark, thanks for the helpful instructions. I change my transmission oil annually through the dipstick like you recommend, but cheat and don't pull the drain plug. Does that take a 22MM wrench?

Also, I believe they mated the CAT 3116 with the ZF 220A-1 on the 400DB.

Bill, I don't recall the plug wrench size, most likely because whatever it is, I have one in my set. I can remember the filter cover size, most likely because I didn't have one on the boat and had to come up with one, just like Paul, I had one at home from pulling front drive axles on my kids cars when they at home/college. The kids are gone :) so the socket lives on the boat now :)
 
Bill, I don't recall the plug wrench size, most likely because whatever it is, I have one in my set. I can remember the filter cover size, most likely because I didn't have one on the boat and had to come up with one, just like Paul, I had one at home from pulling front drive axles on my kids cars when they at home/college. The kids are gone :) so the socket lives on the boat now :)
I checked it today. It is 22mm. The 7/8” socket I use for the zincs works out to 22.2mm. With the layer of paint on the nut it fit perfect
 
We took ownership of our new to us 98 400DB on Friday and couldn't be happier with the boat. It will need a few things here and there, as to be expected with a 20 year old boat, but for the most part seems to be in amazing shape. I was worried about what condition the bottom might be in. Guys on this board seemed to think that the bottom fears were largely over blown. Fortunately this was the case. The last bottom job was in 06, and I think we still have a season or two left on it. This boat was rarely used, and sat unused for the last 3 or 4 years. Not a blemish on the bottom. Looks like the only major thing to replace is the fridge. The anchor was pretty bent up from a bad foul at some point, and seemed to be a 45 lb plow from the factory. I swapped it out to a 33lb stainless plow that I had from my old boat. If anyone has any rec on whether or not this might not be enough, I would love to hear it. I think that it would add a little less strain on the windlass and be plenty for an inland lake.
 

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Congrats Drafter. Glad the bottom situation turned out to be a non event. I have learned this is a great boat to hang out on for long periods on the hook. So ditch that 33lb anchor and get at least a 20kg Rocna.
 
Is anyone using a Hurley H20 on their 400db? Looking at this but open to other options.
Yes, I have one. It hosts a 8' 6" Highfield RIB with aluminum hull and 6hp Tohatsu motor. I love it and I can go on plane and in rough water with not even thinking about the dingy being back there. One thing though - I am just under 6' and in good shape and fairly strong. If everything weighed even 5 more pounds I am not sure I could pull it onto the davit, even with the awesome dead lifting technique I am using.
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Bill, Thank you. I have a 310 aluminum hulled rib (125#) and a 15hp Merc 2s (75#). I am estimating about 50# more than yours. Hmmm

Is hooking up your shore power a major pain with the dink on? Is the dink up against the transom?
 
Bill, Thank you. I have a 310 aluminum hulled rib (125#) and a 15hp Merc 2s (75#). I am estimating about 50# more than yours. Hmmm

Is hooking up your shore power a major pain with the dink on? Is the dink up against the transom?
The bumper edge of the rib is a few inches from the transom. But the transom locker door opens fully and there is plenty of room under the curve of the inflation tube to pull the shore cords through the hawse pipe into the locker. So, I really don't notice any more effort to hook up the power with the dingy mounted than without it there.
 
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My Saloon sleeper sofa switch is "Not working" properly, is like it has a bad contact, I had to press the sofa switch several times to lower the Sleeper Sofa, could be the switch is bad, or some relay, does anyone has the same problem?
When I press Up it works fine, but when I press down it works a little bit then stops, I had to keep pressing up and down until finally, it goes down...
I remember I saw a post for this but I couldn't find it.
I found out how to fix it, i unscrewed the cover and the sofa outlet, and found that a little transformer or stuff was loose, i just tight it, tight the screws that old the little transformer and voila, start working fine, let me try to upload a picture of the loose transformer.
 

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Started what I hope is my last beautification project. I am replacing the gathered vinyl trim that us 01 owners “luckily” have. So far I have removed all the trim and replaced the tv cabinet crown trim with leftover shoe moulding I had from my floor project. I plan to do the rest of the trim with leftover infinity vinyl flooring that I have. So the cost of this plans to be $0. Here are some pictures.
 
Is anyone using a Hurley H20 on their 400db? Looking at this but open to other options.

I'm using the H2O as well. I have a 10.2' Zodiac Wave RIB. It's 80 lbs. I have a Tohatsu 9.8 that is 82 lbs. I'm not the strongest guy, but I can get the boat on the platform by myself. Having another hand around (wife or kid) is appreciated. Our platforms are pretty low to the water, which makes loading easier. But that also causes concern for me...

Coming off plane, the wake always comes back and rocks the boat a little. I've tried coming off plane slowly, tried speeding up as the wake approaches, etc. But the wake always seems to come over the platform and jostle the RIB a little bit. It hasn't been an issue, but I would be concerned if I found myself in strong following seas with the dinghy. My concern is that a big wave could rip if right off the platform. Anyone else share these concerns considering how low our platform is?
 
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Oh, I forgot to include that as part of the project I am replacing the butt ugly wall carpet with something more attractive Heck, even cleaning off the foam padding and painting the gray would be a big improvement.
 
Has anyone had all of their windows tinted? Windshield, sides, and rear slider? Curious as to what a good cost might be. I've got a quote for $1500, and with that will require the tinter to drive about 120 miles round trip to do it.
 

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