Steering Wheel Replacement

jaywoodz

jaywoodz

Member
Nov 12, 2012
522
Richmond, Virginia
Boat Info
1999 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 350 MAG MPI Horizon w/V-Drives
Remove center cap and you will find a large nut that holds the wheel on. Replacement looks right.
 
bahamabreisus said:
Remove center cap and you will find a large nut that holds the wheel on. Replacement looks right.
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Be warned that the wheel won’t just slide off and you may need a steering wheel puller to get it off. Yes, I have the t-shirt for that.

Bryan
 
BryanOnTheBay said:
Be warned that the wheel won’t just slide off and you may need a steering wheel puller to get it off. Yes, I have the t-shirt for that.

Bryan
Click to expand...

Is that actually a real thing? or perhaps I need some brute strength to get it off? o_O
 
I removed my steering wheel awhile back to verify shaft size, keyway type etc as I have been thinking about replacing it. It was stuck on, no way just pulling it off by hand was going to work and I didn't have a puller. I lightly tapped the end of the shaft with a hammer while pulling on the wheel - it popped off pretty easy.
 
I can't see the pic of the replacement wheel, but I bought an OEM wheel from a CSR member to put on the salty 280. The center nut was so corroded that i didn't even try it. The OEM wheel is mounted to an aluminum collar with allenhead screws. I just left the collar on and had the new wheel installed within minutes.
 
Well - I didn't get a "steering wheel puller", but I did have something very similar. I already had a gear puller at my house, so I used that. After I removed the bolt, I tried hand-pulling from the middle (not the wood circle), and of course no luck. I sprayed some in the hole to break up the corrosion and vacuumed out the dirt. I don't think it's been removed since production in '99.

I used the gear puller, and man, I cranked that thing down HARD, and no luck. That thing didn't even budge. It's almost as if the threads are threaded onto the wheel itself.. as in no matter how hard I pull, it won't come.

Can't get it off.. any other ideas?

810eTN-lA8L._SL1500_.jpg
 
keep soaking it in PB Blaster for a few days and try again....

cliff
 
CliffA said:
keep soaking it in PB Blaster for a few days and try again....

cliff
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That's exactly what I used - PB Blaster - going out again today to spray again. It's been 4 days since the last time I sprayed and I haven't tried again. Do I need to do anything else other than unbolt, loosen up, then pull until it comes off? Seems simple, but I feel as if there's more to it.
 
jaywoodz said:
That's exactly what I used - PB Blaster - going out again today to spray again. It's been 4 days since the last time I sprayed and I haven't tried again. Do I need to do anything else other than unbolt, loosen up, then pull until it comes off? Seems simple, but I feel as if there's more to it.
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if there is a key way in the hub of the wheel it should pull right off.....at least the wheel on my 1998 Sea Ray 215EC did when i replaced it several years ago....

cliff
 
CliffA said:
if there is a key way in the hub of the wheel it should pull right off.....at least the wheel on my 1998 Sea Ray 215EC did when i replaced it several years ago....

cliff
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I did see a small hole, that I recall my friend saying that was like a key.. but he elaborated that it was used to keep the steering wheel from spinning freely, and that's how it "caught" and was able to actually turn the rudders. Is there an extra step for that possible key spot?
 
Hit the shaft with a hammer (not too hard) while applying pressure with the wheel puller.
 
jaywoodz said:
I did see a small hole, that I recall my friend saying that was like a key.. but he elaborated that it was used to keep the steering wheel from spinning freely, and that's how it "caught" and was able to actually turn the rudders. Is there an extra step for that possible key spot?
Click to expand...

nope.....the 'key' is a small piece of metal that fits in a slot in the steering shaft and the steering wheel hub to keep the wheel from spinning on the shaft....it is a firm fit so as to not have any play between the shaft and the wheel.....it is possible that the shaft might have a slight enlarged taper to it where the hub and key fit down on it....if so the hub and wheel would be forced to make a VERY tight fit onto the shaft as the retaining nut is torqued down.....this is called a 'press fit'....

cliff
 
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Bill has a good idea also....you will notice the gear puller has a flat surface on top of the center threaded shaft that is used to tighten the puller down.....that flat surface is for hitting the top of the threaded shaft with a hammer while applying pressure with the puller....this will send shock waves down the puller shaft and into the steering shaft which can help break the hub away from the shaft....

cliff
 
CliffA said:
Bill has a good idea also....you will notice the gear puller has a flat surface on top of the center threaded shaft that is used to tighten the puller down.....that flat surface is for hitting the top of the threaded shaft with a hammer while applying pressure with the puller....this will send shock waves down the puller shaft and into the steering shaft which can help break the hub away from the shaft....

cliff
Click to expand...
Yes, I've done this many times working on machinery.
 
jaywoodz said:
I did see a small hole, that I recall my friend saying that was like a key.. but he elaborated that it was used to keep the steering wheel from spinning freely, and that's how it "caught" and was able to actually turn the rudders. Is there an extra step for that possible key spot?
Click to expand...

No additional magic available. Just use a rubber mallet and tap tap tap, then a wrench to turn. Wash rince repeat. Sounds like you are fighting with some serious corrosion if that gear puller won't work.
 
I just hammered away at it for about 10 minutes, and used the puller, after spraying it again with blaster. The first spray of the blaster was 5 days ago. It leaks out through the hole, so doesn't really "sit" on the crack long, or submerged.

This is what I'm dealing with:
IMG_0085.jpg
IMG_0086.jpg
 
what are you using to turn the torque axle? If its a short wrench, you may just need more leverage. Not that I would recommend it, but you should be able to turn that axle enough to literally snap off the steering wheel arms.
 
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