1997 250 DA, restoration thread (THREAD NOW DEAD)

Weekend dancer

New Member
Sep 4, 2017
28
Tampa, Fl
Boat Info
1997 sundancer 250
Engines
Mercruiser, 5.7
Hello all,

I have big project ahead me and I wanted to share my experience and photos. Along the way, I am sure I will continue to have many questions. The story starts when my uncle purchased this boat new in 97', I was on it a few times throughout the years and I remember her and all her glory. As the years went by, he got disinterested in the boat, even though they lived right on the intercostal water way south of St. Pete, Florida. The boat then sat perched on their lift for many years, unused.

Finally, after 3 years of me asking him when he will either sell to me or get rid of it, he realized that it is in dis-repair and decided to gift it to me knowing I will attempt to make it whole again. I finally brought it home last week end and place on stands. Though it only has 135 hours on the engine, the lack of usage, maintenance and care has taken its toll. Currently not running and full of mold and mildew, it is hard to believe it is only 20 years old. The pictures below are from the other day, he literally just left stuff in there for years and I documented everything, untouched. You can see the high water line and current water level (though, i sucked it out last night) as the cabin had a leak and both the sump pump and the bilge pump stopped working 2 years ago. He attempted to pump it out every few months as the water got too high.

Last night I removed all the junk, cushions and anything else that I could.

BONUS.. I did find ALL the original paperwork, engine manual, boat manual, user manuals etc.. He did not remember they were in there. That is enough for now, my first step was to build a temporary cover so I can work out of the sun and rain, next will be to get a new battery and see what may work.

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Oh My. So sad. :(

And just think a $30 tarp could have help preserve the boat while it was on the lift. That would be too much mold for me to deal with..... and just think behind every panel there's probably 100% mold coverage.

Wear a respirator when you are in the cabin or you my be in for a fight for your health.

Please before you spend any more money look online and see how much this year make and model is worth. A quick look for a running 250 worth $10 - 20K depending on options and condition.
 
Wow, as the previous owner of 97 250DA, that is breaking my heart that he let it get to that condition. Little Ducky has good advise about the mold, and the cost of one in good shape. To that point, I sold mine in 2013 in the range he quoted and mine was in great shape with the big block engine.

Good luck!
 
Thanks guys for the info. Luckily, since the boat was free, at this time I am out the $125 for the trailer rental only. Luckily I have some connections in the engine rebuilding area as well as a strong background in remodeling and water intrusion.

Budget is always a concern, I don't really plan on a complete and perfect restoration, I am hoping to get her running and usable. Once I clean out the cabin, I am not sure how much I will repair/replace. We don't plan on traveling far or staying over night anywhere, just some fun on the water.
 
That's a shame it was left out to get into that condition. It happens, there was a 1999 270da at the Yacht Club I used to be at. Originally it was on a lift, over time something happened and the lift would not work so the boat ended up floating in the slip - cockpit cover, but hatches opened. More than once I retied the lines, even donated some of my old ones. In 5yrs I never saw anyone around that boat. Eventually it was sold and I saw the inside with the new owner - not as bad as yours, but it was a mess. 10hrs on the hour meter.

My biggest concern with yours would be all the mold, that can just cause major health problems - had a friend with a camper trailer that one of the hatches leaked. He fixed it but kept feeling sick anytime they used the camper. Turned out a large area of the ceiling was full of mold - he had it tested and the air quality was off the charts.

But like you said, it was free, you want a project, it could be fun and you might just end up with a decent boat in the end. Project like this is not for me, but I do like to follow along -- keep the updates coming!
 
The mold is bad, but the reality with mold is that if you stop the source of moisture, the mold will not grow. It needs a food source. Once it is encapsulated (with paint) or thoroughly cleaned or removed if possible, you are just left with stains, not mold. Since she will always be on a trailer and covered (by a structure, not just a boat cover), going forward, she will stay dry.

I will replace all seals around the windows and hatch, then water test. Then, ensure the rails are also water tight.

I look forward to the challenge. I am not an avid boater or fisherman and had 1 boat 20 years ago, but I love the water. I am one of those who can't sit still and enjoy being in my work shop. My 14 year old son could use some hands on knowledge and experience, they need to see that computers and phones can't do everything!

The irony of this whole story is that he had a brand new cover that was in the cabin! (I just found that last night) not sure if he forgot about it or if he really just didn't care. I need to call him today to find out, that drives me nuts.
 
Thanks Little Ducky.. Is there a specific fit chart? I did not see where you could input a make or model for the correct purchase. Are the model numbers in the sea ray parts catalog still good?


I scheduled one of our remediation contractors to set up a dryer / dehu and air-scrubber in the cabin today. They will run until Monday and should completely dry out everything. he also sprayed a fungicide to help kill the spores. We also completed some basic moisture testing, though the thermal camera cannot read through fiber glass and a moisture meter was not too much of a help either (at least the one they use for drywall and wood could not get accurate reading through the cabin flooring) I am not sure what others are out there, but I will check it out.

The picture is of the large dryer and in the aft is the air scrubber. The cabinets are not warped and only the backrests (which are removed) under the starboard window will need new framing. Of course the foam and fabric needs to be replaced. Once I get my 4x4 posts and temporary roofing installed, either today or tomorrow, I can open up the engine compartment and start to figure things out. The bilge is now clean and dry for the first time in a year or so. I am hopeful that since she never sat in the water, maybe all the wood is good.
 

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Thanks Little Ducky.. Is there a specific fit chart? I did not see where you could input a make or model for the correct purchase. Are the model numbers in the sea ray parts catalog still good?
.

I found the info in this post...... Post number 10. But unfortunately looking at your parts list ...... your windows are a different part number. Still worth a call to MMI marine whenever you get to your windows to see if the same kit can be used.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/porthole-screens.43043/
 
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Thanks to all who have helped in this short time. As i noted above, I had my restoration contractor come to the home to place some dryers in the cabin, he then came back with a differnt moisture meter and there were wet spots all over the place. So, I then started to poke around and that is when the $hit hit the fan. There was rot and water all over the place. I am not going to say I am surprised, but i really did think this much was affected.

So the pictures below are looking forward from the engine and at the gas tank. The entire structure around the tank and above the tank is rot (aft cabin floor). No structural integrity at all around the tank. I then moved to the main stringers on both sides of the engine, as you can see, when I drilled the holes, there was so much water and rot, it squeezed out around the hole. Both stringers are black and wet.

Finally, i went to the cabin floor ( that I knew has an issue) and opened up the rot on the floor, you can see the plywood stringer in the middle of the hole, this was actually not that rot, but there was standing water in all inside the foam insulation and was rotting down at the bottom. This was the front of the boat of course, if a went further back, it would be worse I am sure. Let's not forget that the engine is rusted up to the alterator, I think that could have been saved, but not after seeing this rot.

So, needless to say I am going to cut my losses at $200. (Rental trailer and gas money for my buddy who towed the boat in the water). I guess the final costs will be whatever it will be to get rid of it, I still have to figure that one out.

Any suggetions? Any thoughts on my decision to scrap it?

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Man, that's kind of heartbreaking. I know you were gearing up for the ride. As LD said, there may be some parts that can be sold. Maybe gauges, head, sinks and faucets, lighting. Hell the outdrive has to be worth a grand maybe and if not that, what shape are the props in? Trim cylinders, gimbal housing and backing plate, heads, carb? I bet you could make some money just parting it out.

And if you are really feeling the urge to work on one come over to the Big Easy and help me with mine.

Shawn
 
Disappointing for sure. I keep thinking that maybe I am over reacting. But, that is alot of rot. Even if the stringers were not wet, the plywood surround alone would have to be rebuilt around tank and aft cabin.

I may put on Craig's to sell whole, but without a trailer, it might be a difficult sell. I really don't have the desire to part it out, seems like too much work. I will think it through.

I also looked into donating it as well. They will pick it up, no trailer needed and doesn't have to run.

Anyway, on the positive side, the boat show is next weekend, I have the boating bug again!!
 
You're not overreacting at all. That boat is toast. RIP

Just like NorCal said, pull the outdrive, it's worth a grand. List it on Craig's, wait for the sale, and then use the money to pay for it to be hauled to the salvage yard.
 
Ah, man, that's a terrible way for a boat to go. In the end maybe it's the best news for you given the extent of the mold, etc. It would take a long time to get here out on the water.

If you want to just be rid of it, call one of those boat donation places. If you're enterprising, try to strip the parts to make some cash.

You could also see if your local waste department will accept boats for disposal. Mine will take boats. A few years ago it was by weight - 4.5 cents / pound and the 1st 500 pounds were free on Saturdays. Boats have to be stripped of fluids, engine, and the gas tank though.
 
You can get real money for some things like the outdrive as mentioned, but also the windshield, and bow rails. With all the recent hurricane damaged boats, parts should be in demand.
 
List it on eBay for parts only. It will go quickly and you’ll actually be helping somebody out.
 
Wow - sorry to hear and see this. I think you are right about stopping with trying to restore. I would be interested in buying the windshield wiper unit if you want to part it out. I would also be interested in the new cover you mentioned. Both should be a match for my boat.

Regards, Pete.


Thanks to all who have helped in this short time. As i noted above, I had my restoration contractor come to the home to place some dryers in the cabin, he then came back with a differnt moisture meter and there were wet spots all over the place. So, I then started to poke around and that is when the $hit hit the fan. There was rot and water all over the place. I am not going to say I am surprised, but i really did think this much was affected.

So the pictures below are looking forward from the engine and at the gas tank. The entire structure around the tank and above the tank is rot (aft cabin floor). No structural integrity at all around the tank. I then moved to the main stringers on both sides of the engine, as you can see, when I drilled the holes, there was so much water and rot, it squeezed out around the hole. Both stringers are black and wet.

Finally, i went to the cabin floor ( that I knew has an issue) and opened up the rot on the floor, you can see the plywood stringer in the middle of the hole, this was actually not that rot, but there was standing water in all inside the foam insulation and was rotting down at the bottom. This was the front of the boat of course, if a went further back, it would be worse I am sure. Let's not forget that the engine is rusted up to the alterator, I think that could have been saved, but not after seeing this rot.

So, needless to say I am going to cut my losses at $200. (Rental trailer and gas money for my buddy who towed the boat in the water). I guess the final costs will be whatever it will be to get rid of it, I still have to figure that one out.

Any suggetions? Any thoughts on my decision to scrap it?

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I occasionally see people asking about the depth finder display also - you may be able to find a buyer for that if it is the original style and working.
 
The more I think about it the longer my list gets of parts I would purchase from you....

If you are not interested in parting it out then maybe a local teenager you know would do it for me and make a few bucks?

Windshield wiper unit
Canvas Cover
transom door hinge (it is about 12 inches long)
plexiglass cover for the fluorescent light in the galley
latch for the cabinet under the sink in the head
dashboard gauges
mercruiser throttle
spotlight

Thanks for making me think of all the problems with my boat... :)

And I think you could sell the depth finder display and probably the props to someone else. I also see people occasionally looking for a fridge.

Thanks, Pete.
 

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