Steering cable replacement completed.

Leardriver

Active Member
May 24, 2016
308
Denver, CO
Boat Info
2004 270 Sundeck 8.1 Bravo III
Engines
5.0, 5.7, 6.2 8.1 Bravo III over the years
2004 270 Sundeck had stiff steering. It was nearly frozen when I first came in contact with it, and after disconnecting the clevis and cotter pin and greasing it, it would reluctantly turn, but it wasn't right and stiff enough to be dangerous.
Looking at the cable, the length, 17 feet, was stamped on it, as was the Teleflex brand.

I called Teleflex, who also goes by or was acquired by Seastar, and they recommended their new high performance upper duper ninja Teflon coated easy turn cable. My part number was 15417. The better cable was only a few bucks more. I could have gotten a complete new helm for only anther $30, but mine was tight and solid. he cable was about $135 plus shipping.

Four screws hold on the vinyl cover inside the door in front of the helm. The ol' one bedroom apartment. Four more bolts hold on the cable to the rack. Maybe 7/16?

At the stern, I laid a life vest for padding over the plastic engine cover on the petite little 496, sprawled my ample carcass over it, and removed the cotter pin and clevis and pulled the cable out towards the starboard side. That's boat talk for you shore bound folks. It is also the only direction the cable will side out.

I attached some stout nylon string to the steering bar to use as a fish tape, and pulled it out towards the front. Along the way, I went through some gloves and band aids. There is a glom of silicone just aft of the throttle lever, accessible through the sink door, and I drilled that out with a step drill bit. You need room to pull the big nut from the steering bar through there. While we are mentioning the steering bar, there is a flat indentation on the housing that is slides in to for use as a wrench holding spot. Use it, not channel locks on the outer housing. You don't want to crush or deform the housing and make the steering worse.

Snaking the new cable back rough is much easier with a helper. One to tug on the fish string, and one to wiggle and guide through the tight spots. This isn't complicated, just requires minor patience.
The entire job start to finish took a leisurely 1.5 hours. It takes longer to tow it to the dealer and drop it off. A smaller boat might be easier, a giant cruiser with twins might suck with Biblical severity.

The steering turns with a pinky now. Super easy. I am thrilled with it, and glad that I tackled it. I just wanted to share my experience in case any of you were thinking about that project.
 
Took the boat to the lake and tested it. It has gone from gorilla steering to one finger whipped cream steering. I am thrilled! Definitely worth the few minutes that it took to fix.
 
Tested it on the water. Pure whipped cream easy steering. Did I mention that I was thrilled with it?
 
Good to know. I'm going to have to replace the steering cable on my kids 2005 Maxim 18' Bowrider pretty soon. It's pretty stiff, but I'm hoping to put it off until the end of the season if possible. It will probably come out of the water for the season shortly after Labor Day anyway because once school starts they really don't use it anymore.
 
Hi Leardriver,
I have a Sea Ray 185 Bowrider, and I just now joined this forum to hopefully read about steering problems.
I read your account about replacing the cable, and it sounds like my system is basically the same as yours.
My question for you is, how do you know if the cable needs to be replaced, as opposed to other potential problems with the steering.
With my boat, the power steering quit working last year, and now it steers like a truck.
I've only gone so far as to stick my head under the dash (helm?) and also stuck it as close to the transom as I could to see what the rack or ram looked like. Changing the cable appears to be something that I am capable of.
Do you have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the system (to make sure the cable is the culprit)?
Thanks
Rich
Lake Gaston, NC

2004 270 Sundeck had stiff steering. It was nearly frozen when I first came in contact with it, and after disconnecting the clevis and cotter pin and greasing it, it would reluctantly turn, but it wasn't right and stiff enough to be dangerous.
Looking at the cable, the length, 17 feet, was stamped on it, as was the Teleflex brand.

I called Teleflex, who also goes by or was acquired by Seastar, and they recommended their new high performance upper duper ninja Teflon coated easy turn cable. My part number was 15417. The better cable was only a few bucks more. I could have gotten a complete new helm for only anther $30, but mine was tight and solid. he cable was about $135 plus shipping.

Four screws hold on the vinyl cover inside the door in front of the helm. The ol' one bedroom apartment. Four more bolts hold on the cable to the rack. Maybe 7/16?

At the stern, I laid a life vest for padding over the plastic engine cover on the petite little 496, sprawled my ample carcass over it, and removed the cotter pin and clevis and pulled the cable out towards the starboard side. That's boat talk for you shore bound folks. It is also the only direction the cable will side out.

I attached some stout nylon string to the steering bar to use as a fish tape, and pulled it out towards the front. Along the way, I went through some gloves and band aids. There is a glom of silicone just aft of the throttle lever, accessible through the sink door, and I drilled that out with a step drill bit. You need room to pull the big nut from the steering bar through there. While we are mentioning the steering bar, there is a flat indentation on the housing that is slides in to for use as a wrench holding spot. Use it, not channel locks on the outer housing. You don't want to crush or deform the housing and make the steering worse.

Snaking the new cable back rough is much easier with a helper. One to tug on the fish string, and one to wiggle and guide through the tight spots. This isn't complicated, just requires minor patience.
The entire job start to finish took a leisurely 1.5 hours. It takes longer to tow it to the dealer and drop it off. A smaller boat might be easier, a giant cruiser with twins might suck with Biblical severity.

The steering turns with a pinky now. Super easy. I am thrilled with it, and glad that I tackled it. I just wanted to share my experience in case any of you were thinking about that project.
 
I suggest removing the cable from the rear steering bar by pulling out the cotter pin and clevis. Then, turn the steering wheel and see if it turns easy. That rules out the actual wheel and helm. Then, from the outside move the drive back and forth. Is it freely turning, although heavy and bulky?
Then, grease the steering bar and re-install. Is it better? Then you need a new steering cable.
The cables are so cheap, for a boat part, and go in so easy, that I would replace one just to rule out other stiff areas.
 
I am trying to figure out how to remove the steering cable on my 2002 240 Sundeck. I removed the clevis pin and the retaining nut no problem. However I can't fully pull out the cable as the plastic water tank appears to be in the way. There must be a trick to get it around that curve. The Stern layout of the 270 must be similar to mine. How did you get the cable out of the power steering apparatus? Thanks!
 
See photo.
 

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Bill, remove the round plastic cover near the transom door by the interior step. You can access the back side of the water tank, although it’s a tight squeeze.

Then crawl under the wet bar and feel up around the trough, you should find the cable laying up there.

There isn’t much room, but these areas may help you accomplish the task.
 
That all I can do. The problem is getting the ram out of the power steering apparatus. See the attached Pic. I can get the clevis pin out and then the retaining nut out. But the cable and ram don't come out enough to make this turn. I don't know how bendable the cable is. There has got to be an easy technique. Next time I will try it with the cable extended (full to starboard) so maybe the bendable part can make the turn before the solid ram does.
7035A4AA-D0AF-4235-ACC4-6D4EB9BC82D5.jpeg
 
most issues with still steering are from the rod being tight in the guide tube from lack of lubrication. If you loosen the nut on the cable and it now moves freely, the trouble is in the guide tube . Than means you will never pull the cable from the guide tube
can you move/remove the plastic tank for access?
 
That all I can do. The problem is getting the ram out of the power steering apparatus. See the attached Pic. I can get the clevis pin out and then the retaining nut out. But the cable and ram don't come out enough to make this turn. I don't know how bendable the cable is. There has got to be an easy technique. Next time I will try it with the cable extended (full to starboard) so maybe the bendable part can make the turn before the solid ram does. View attachment 68524

I know this is an an old thread but did you figure out how to get the cable out? I'm having the same exact issue with my 2006 sundeck 240. Cable is hitting the water tank and I can't pull the cable arm the entire way out. I'm at my wits end with this. I tries beating it out with a metal rod but still won't come out due to lack of clearance (water tank) and how tight the cable is. Thanks in advance!
 
I know this is an an old thread but did you figure out how to get the cable out? I'm having the same exact issue with my 2006 sundeck 240. Cable is hitting the water tank and I can't pull the cable arm the entire way out. I'm at my wits end with this. I tries beating it out with a metal rod but still won't come out due to lack of clearance (water tank) and how tight the cable is. Thanks in advance!

our 290 was impossible without taking a bunch of stuff out so I just cut it. Big pair of bolt cutters went right through it.
 
Kns8161,
We're you able resolve the issue with the steering cable?
I think I have a the same job coming up with my 2006 240SD.
Would appreciate any tips. Thanks
 
Kns8161,
We're you able resolve the issue with the steering cable?
I think I have a the same job coming up with my 2006 240SD.
Would appreciate any tips. Thanks

Yes I actually was able to fix it. In order to get the steering cable rod out, you must remove the 2 screws on the bracket holding the fresh water tank down. Then lift up the metal bracket so you can turn the fresh water tank. You must also undo the fresh water pipe connector near the rear of the tank. Once you can partially spin the tank sideways, you will have room to pull out the cable rod. Make sure you tie a rope to the end of tje old cable for when you feed the new one back in. I was able to complete the entire repair by myself. You also will have to trim to make a larger hole under the sink to feed the cable through because it is not large enough to fit through as is. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
I have to replace my 2006 Sea Ray 240 Sundeck steering cable. This threads been awesome with the tips. I’m having a hard time finding the length I need 15’, 16’, or 17’. If anyone knows I appreciate the help
 
I believe my cable was 17' but I'm not 100% sure. Like previously stated, it will be displayed on the cable.
 

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