Official 280 Sundancer Thread

gsmallwood said:
On my front hatch riser arm, the knob you turn to tighten the arm all of a sudden wont turn in either direction. It was working fine the last time we unscrewed it and let the hatch down. Yesterday we raised the hatch and the knob would not turn to tighten it. Any ideas on how these work? I could not see anything wrong with it.
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Good question. Mine doing the same. Was going to just shoot some wd40 or something on them.
 
Is the key in the head supposed to be on all the time to be able to flush the toilet? Mine isn't Flushing unless it is but i thought that key was only for overboard discharge.
 
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questions on the 280...looking at upgrading to a bigger boat. was looking at 300's but seem to be a little out of our price range so started looking at 290's but want to also consider the 280. looking at about 1999-2002ish and hopefully under about $30000.

here are my list of must haves. i have no idea if these are even available on the 280 so that is the reason for this post.

air conditioning
pump out head
windlass
twin engines (may consider single engine but not likely)
separate dinette in cabin
extended swim platform (can add later if need be)
hot water
shower
table setup in back near stern with u-shaped seating (hopefully converts to sunpad)

lower on the wish list:
permanent v-berth (no table to break down, etc)
walk through windshield (wife would rate this a must have)
port side lounger
generator

think that about covers it. started out looking at 1995 and newer but like the styling of the 2000ish models so started looking at 29's and now 28's.

does the 280 come with any/all of these options? i know AC, windlass, etc., but not so sure about the head, tables, seating arrangement, walk through windshield, etc. sounds like alot to ask for but want to keep this next one for awhile so want it to be right.

currently have a 1986 250. no AC, pump out head, walk through windshield, and the seating sucks...lol. love the boat, just wish it had more of what i want
 
thanks. a guy at our marina has one that is about a 2007 but too much $$$ for me. it seems to have most everything i have on that list but wasn't sure if the older ones did too. i will add the 280 to my watch list
 
I bought a 2001. Other than the fact that it's a single, we love the boat, stay on it every weekend, and it has everything you mentioned with the exception of a generator. We leave the v-berth set up as a bed all the time, added a flat screen TV on a mount where we can adjust to view from the berth or the galley. The shower is essentially useless, but we have great amenities at the yacht club so it's not needed.
 
Rick B said:
I bought a 2001. Other than the fact that it's a single, we love the boat, stay on it every weekend, and it has everything you mentioned with the exception of a generator. We leave the v-berth set up as a bed all the time, added a flat screen TV on a mount where we can adjust to view from the berth or the galley. The shower is essentially useless, but we have great amenities at the yacht club so it's not needed.
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Why is the shower useless? Size? JC
 
ChiefScientist said:
I installed and briefly tested the MercMonitor Level 2 Version 7 with SmartTow Pro last weekend. Already, I can tell this is going to make an EXTREMELY POSITIVE improvement in my boating this year. I'm reporting this capability because I have not seen the "smart cruise" functionality with the ECO profile discussed on the web much at all.

The main objectives for purchasing the MercMonitor gauge was to function as a NMEA2000 gateway for connecting my Raymarine C90W into SmartCraft. Secondarily, I thought the ECO mode of the gauge might save me a buck or two on fuel. Both objectives were met.

As far as the Raymarine C90W, appropriate engine data shows up and it looks like it will be tons of fun building new displays. That said, I once was really looking forward to more extensive information but this capability turns out to be less important because of the super customizable MercMonitor. Between the gauge flexibility itself and the other Smartcraft gauges I have, cluster of gauges on the dash can display the information spectrum very effectively. It's not as essential to tie-in the C90W as I once thought it to be. Just one gauge made that much positive difference!

As far as the ECO mode, I'm extremely happy. I'm going to save some serious fuel! I'm ashamed to say where I typically ran the boat - because the engine sounded like it was straining less and the throttle seemed more retarded - was .2 MPG less efficient where the ECO mode caculated the ideal trim, speed, and throttle to be. Wow! While my test was brief, I bet once I get it all set up I can save even more fuel.

But the BIG SURPRISE is the SmartTow Launch using the ECO Mode Profile. What this does is automatically plane the boat to the most economical speed and then automatically manage the throttle. You just engage the function on the MercMonitor, floor the throttle, and the boat smoothly accelerates, planes, controllably overshoots, and throttle backs to the pre-selected speed or RPM. There are also other profiles that can be implemented for a different launch profile. I can see that family boating will be improved. For instance, my wife likes to cruise as slow as possible (sepecially when it was choppy) - but to me this was a lot of work and not enjoyable because of constant manipulation of the throttle. I could not really take my hands off the throttle at all. But now, the MercMonitor does this! It can keep the boat at speeds I could not without extreme attention. No more "Slow down, you are going too fast!!!" Frankly, it can operate the boat at speeds that would typically mean way too much manipulation of the throttle for my level of tolerance. To me, it is already much more comfortable - and she has not even been on board yet. I can relax!!!

Despite owning the gauge, I can only speak to Level 2 Version 7 with "SmartTow Pro" feature set. A different level and feature set will most likely give different results. Proceed carefully as the information is confusing. There seems to be a wide selection of levels, versions, and feature sets.




Guys - take a SERIOUS look at this gauge.
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I know this is an old post but my SC gauge LCD screen is shot and I'm looking to replace it. Is the MercMonitor a plug and play set up if you already have a SC gauge? Both gauges can be found for about $300-$330.


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i wanted to get some opinions or examples of someone who has already done this. Changing out all the old interior light fixtures to something more up to date.

1) all the swivel lights
2) the recessed light in the kitchen
3) the light in the bathroom
4) the light between the second bedroom and seats (I think its the same as the bathroom light)

If not changing out the entire lights, I would like to at least change the bulbs to leds. I have been doing some searching but still not sure what kind all the bulbs are. Will appreciate that info.

Thanks
 
Sharing a quick semi-success story. My Port side engine would overheat while I was on plane and then when I put it back in neutral the alarm would shut off and temperature would go back down. I bought an infrared heat sensor and tested it out. My risers on the starboard engine both would read 147 degrees and on the port engine the left riser was 199 degrees and the right side was 168 degrees. I gambled and went out and bought a new riser to replace the 199 degree one. I took the boat out for a ride and the same thing happened (wasted roughly $400). This morning I got the idea to take the 2 hoses off the thermostat that go to the Manifolds. I hooked the hose right up to my garden hose and on the side where I replaced the riser I heard the water flow really well. On the side that I didn't replace the water would not flow. After 10 minutes of building up pressure, whatever was blocking ended up letting go and the water started flowing. I took the boat out and everything worked perfect including an issue I was having with cavitation from that same engine when I would try to plane off. The whole process takes a minute to take the hoses off and hook the garden hose up. Also, as I am sure many of you are thinking, I feel pretty confident in the manifolds and risers that are currently on there. I replaced all of them 5 years ago and when I took the riser off, everything looked perfect. In 5 years I barely put 100 hours on the engines. What I am not confident in is all of the original hoses that are on that engine. I will probably make that a fall project.
 
"First off, hello! I'm amazed at the knowledge represented on this forum. I've learned so much about our 280DA from reading all 421 pages of this thread. I'm not new to boats; I've had boats all my life but mostly outboard center console fishing type boats. This is our first cruiser and we're loving it. We keep it at our dock on Lake Lanier, GA, and get to enjoy it often.

EIM issue? A week ago I upgraded the anchor light to LED. Tested after installation and it looked great. We went on a dinner cruise last Wednesday and everything seemed normal; blower working, windless working, etc. On the cruise home at sunset I turned on the nav lights and the windless light came on and would not turn off. Back at the dock I discovered the anchor light was not lit. I started trouble shooting this weekend thinking it was the new LED, however now the blower doesn't work, windless doesn't work, cockpit lights will flicker once but not stay on, bilge lights and storage compartment lights don't work. Anchor light strobed at first, now doesn't work. Stereo remote powers up when I turn on the nav lights. All of these functions are controlled by the aft EIM.

I can't imagine that installing a LED lamp could cause an EIM issue. Is this just coincidental? Any advice on next steps?"


I had the same issue last season and it was the switchpad. They are crazy expensive, but it fixed the issue. I believe I paid about $350 on ebay for one from a marina that was selling them. Only issue is if you have the wood grain look, they no longer make them.
 
TheGoodLife said:
Sharing a quick semi-success story. My Port side engine would overheat while I was on plane and then when I put it back in neutral the alarm would shut off and temperature would go back down. I bought an infrared heat sensor and tested it out. My risers on the starboard engine both would read 147 degrees and on the port engine the left riser was 199 degrees and the right side was 168 degrees. I gambled and went out and bought a new riser to replace the 199 degree one. I took the boat out for a ride and the same thing happened (wasted roughly $400). This morning I got the idea to take the 2 hoses off the thermostat that go to the Manifolds. I hooked the hose right up to my garden hose and on the side where I replaced the riser I heard the water flow really well. On the side that I didn't replace the water would not flow. After 10 minutes of building up pressure, whatever was blocking ended up letting go and the water started flowing. I took the boat out and everything worked perfect including an issue I was having with cavitation from that same engine when I would try to plane off. The whole process takes a minute to take the hoses off and hook the garden hose up. Also, as I am sure many of you are thinking, I feel pretty confident in the manifolds and risers that are currently on there. I replaced all of them 5 years ago and when I took the riser off, everything looked perfect. In 5 years I barely put 100 hours on the engines. What I am not confident in is all of the original hoses that are on that engine. I will probably make that a fall project.
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Explain how ad where you hooked up a garden hose. I have the exact same issues with my starboard engine.
 
gsmallwood said:
Explain how ad where you hooked up a garden hose. I have the exact same issues with my starboard engine.
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Your thermostat has 3 hoses. 1 goes to the Raw Water Pump on the engine and the other 2 each go to a manifold. Only Disconnect 1 at a time. So start with the one that goes to the left manifold: unscrew the clamp holding the hose onto the thermostat and pull the hose off. Stick your garden hose into the hose that goes to the manifold (It fits Perfectly). Now tighten the clamp back onto the hose so the garden hose doesn't come out. Turn on the garden hose fully and listen for water coming out of your riser. You will also have to put your thumb over the hole of the thermostat so water doesn't come out that way and it can build up the most pressure within manifold. Let it run for about 10 minutes after you hear water flowing and then put everything back together and do it on the right side. My right side had zero water movement and just when I was about to give up and shut the water off, the blockage let go and water started flowing. Please post a follow-up if it worked for you as well.
 
Time for a little TLC for the Maggie Mae. Amazing what some fresh paint/bottom paint can do! Was losing 4-5mph off the top end speed and requiring a lot more power to get on plane. Looking forward to getting her back tomorrow to see the difference in the water!



 
I have a 2004 280 Sundancer..........I am looking for the faux wood cover for the left instrument panel where the blower switch is. Does anyone know where I can get this? Also, I need a new toiled seat fastener. The left side broke off of the bowl.
 
TheBigb said:
I had an 08 as my last boat. It came with a clarion head unit and Sony blue speakers. They sucked and I replaced with JLs. There was an upgrade sound system as an option though that had a sub/Rockford speakers and amp... sounds like you have that set up.


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I'm having an issue with my rear speakers.. I was told that I needed a new amp. So, I upgraded from the 40 amp to a 100 amp and nothing has changed. I can hear bass and some sounds coming out of the cockpit speakers (all 4) but I can't listen to music with the cabin door closed. The cabin speakers work great. Any ideas?

2004 sundancer 280 twin 4.3 mpi's
 
Fade control (front to back) on the radio might be messed up? RCA connections from radio to amp loose/bad?

Curtiss said:
I'm having an issue with my rear speakers.. I was told that I needed a new amp. So, I upgraded from the 40 amp to a 100 amp and nothing has changed. I can hear bass and some sounds coming out of the cockpit speakers (all 4) but I can't listen to music with the cabin door closed. The cabin speakers work great. Any ideas?

2004 sundancer 280 twin 4.3 mpi's
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