Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

That IS a great deal! I know I have considered replacing all my gauges with chrome ringed ones, but don't want "aftermarket" and the prices are out of sight. Now I know who to go to if one of mine quit. ;)
Congratulations!
 
I have a question around how my toilet and water system work, I have never had an Macerator system, does this require water to be aboard or will it pull water from lake? It's a 96' 270


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If you go to http://www.searay.com , select owners resources, then owner's manuals, you can select the owner's manual (and other information) for your boat. Chapter 6 will explain how the toilet system works on your boat.
 
Rpm gauge issue : I got my 270 in the water this past week. She ran good. When I bought it I noticed the rpm gauge was stuck at about 800rpm, I replaced all all the gauges and updated the drivers helm area, after the upgraded the rpm gauge went back to stopping at 800 or so , it reads while the engines running. Any ideas?


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If I understand correctly, the tach works fine when the engine is running, but when you turn the engine off the tach needles rests at 800 RPM.
I don't see a problem.
These tachometers are not known to be terribly accurate to begin with. You might want to attach a digital tach to the engine to compare what your gage is reading and what the engine is actually running. If the analog tach is reading 800 rpm high, that would account for it parking the needle at 800 rpm. You might be able to open it up and "zero" the needle at that point.
But first thing to do is find out if it is accurate.
 
If I understand correctly, the tach works fine when the engine is running, but when you turn the engine off the tach needles rests at 800 RPM.
I don't see a problem.
These tachometers are not known to be terribly accurate to begin with. You might want to attach a digital tach to the engine to compare what your gage is reading and what the engine is actually running. If the analog tach is reading 800 rpm high, that would account for it parking the needle at 800 rpm. You might be able to open it up and "zero" the needle at that point.
But first thing to do is find out if it is accurate.

Thanks, it's seems like it would be fairly on point, when started the Rpms are about right between 6-900 , gauges were put in this winter due this and it was also time for a refresh, when installed they were correct, but after she was started it went back


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wash, compound, polish, wax, new rode and anchor, and new chrome logos and emblems
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Looking good there, Ponty!
Still have to get mine done. Hope it turns out as good.
 
Ponty,
She looks really great! Where did you get new logos and how did you take the old ones off? Mine look really aged and I'd love to replace them.

Just polished up mine this weekend. I recommend the Star Bright Marine Polish with PTEF. Worked wonders on my finish. Pics not uploading for some reason...
 
Ponty,
She looks really great! Where did you get new logos and how did you take the old ones off? Mine look really aged and I'd love to replace them.

Just polished up mine this weekend. I recommend the Star Bright Marine Polish with PTEF. Worked wonders on my finish. Pics not uploading for some reason...

Thanks,
I got the emblems and logos on eBay for around $50. They were pretty easy to come off. All I did was use a putty knife to remove them and then cleaned the old adhesive off with adhesive cleaner. The new logos come with the double sided tape already on them, so it was just reapply in the same spot. That was easy too as their was some ghosting from the old emblems to make an exact placement.
 
Does anyone know what the access holes where added for on the above pics of the pulpit?


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My mechanic/electrician added them because the PO placed the searchlight on the pulpit instead of the rail. It's for easier acces to the wires for the searchlight and the mounting bolts for it.
 
So I installed a new fish finder and chart plotter combo so my father and I can try and actually catch some fish on the boat. Transducer install whet good but now running the wire through to the helm I'm running into a pinch of an issue. Is there easy access to behind the helm from anywhere? It seems like the only way is to remove the breaker panel to try and find a way to fish the wire through? Any other secrets to ease of access there?
 
Next to the seat is a cup holder kind of arrangement that will allow you to get a hand back in there near the bottom. You're still going to need to pull the breaker panel and probably the instrument panel as well. Be mindful that the cabin door slides back there and can snag improperly secured wires.
 
Next to the seat is a cup holder kind of arrangement that will allow you to get a hand back in there near the bottom. You're still going to need to pull the breaker panel and probably the instrument panel as well. Be mindful that the cabin door slides back there and can snag improperly secured wires.

Also if take up the bottom cushion, on mine I have built in "cooler" on the left and storage on the right. If you look in the storage area on the right you will see screws that give you an access panel as well to help run the wires up.
But for behind the dash, the only access is to pull fuse panel and switch panel


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Thanks for the input guys. I knew about the cup holder and access area there, I mounted a speaker at the helm right below the throttle so I've been there before. Sounds like it'll be fun to fish the wire through. Especially with its 1" connector. I'm sure it'll be a tight fit through whatever I can find.
 
Just purchased a 1996 270 7.4l Bravo 3 last month and have had it out twice. Boat is in great shape, low hours and everything seems to work fine. I did have to replace the t-stat in the Kohler 4kw generator and it now runs great too. We ran the fridge all weekend long on the 12v, but when I ran the genny it didn't seem to add a charge back to the battery. I'm new to all the bells and whistles of having a generator with AC/Heat, fridge, microwave, etc. Is there something that I need to be doing when running the generator to send a charge to the battery. Thanks for the help. This is our 2nd SR. First was a 1987 230. Loved that boat. Looking forward to all the creature comforts of this one!
 
Just purchased a 1996 270 7.4l Bravo 3 last month and have had it out twice. Boat is in great shape, low hours and everything seems to work fine. I did have to replace the t-stat in the Kohler 4kw generator and it now runs great too. We ran the fridge all weekend long on the 12v, but when I ran the genny it didn't seem to add a charge back to the battery. I'm new to all the bells and whistles of having a generator with AC/Heat, fridge, microwave, etc. Is there something that I need to be doing when running the generator to send a charge to the battery. Thanks for the help. This is our 2nd SR. First was a 1987 230. Loved that boat. Looking forward to all the creature comforts of this one!

Your AC-converter charges the battery so the breaker must be on to charge the batteries with the generator.

Start generator.

Switch the power selector to generator.

Turn on the main breaker.

Turn on the AC-converter breaker.

It should be charging batteries then.

My Garmin has a voltage setting and I can see when the charger starts charging.

MM
 

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