Port Hole Windows & Hatch resealing

DjDaoust

Member
Nov 4, 2015
213
La Crosse, WI
Boat Info
1998 450 Sundancer - 3 Boys & A Blonde
Engines
Cat 3126's
Does anyone out there have experience in resealing their port hole windows and deck hatches? Time for us to do so, with all the leaks. Just wondering what the starting point is and what supplies are needed. Thanks in advance!
 
Life seal around outside window moldings and around outside hatch molding . You can't use regular caulking as the sun will kill it rather quick. They also sell replacement gaskets for the port hole windows. I got mine direct from Taylor, however not sure who the OEM window manufacturer is for your boat, more than likely Taylor as well
 
I am just now finishing this job. All the port holes and also the ER vents. Not a particularly difficult job. I did it with the boat in the water. I did the job after the boat sat for winter in the covered slip, thinking that would give any moisture time to dry out as much as reasonably possible.

For the port holes:
-applied ring of blue tape on the outside around the port hole frame
-inside boat: removed screws on the inside around trim ring; removed the 3 dogs
-outside boat: used a putty knife and rubber mallet to pry the outer unit off of the hull. most of the time the gasket came along with it and was in reasonable shape so I re-used.
-cleaned the hull area with razor blade and acetone
-applied a generous bead of Life Caulk
-set exterior unit in place. this is where a second person would be handy (to hold it in place while you go inside and screw the trim ring back on). I did not have a second person so before I ran the caulk bead, I set out the trim ring, screwdriver, and screws in place on the inside so that I could get one screw in from the outside while I held the outer unit in place. This will not work for the sealed (non-opening) ports at the bow. For these, I applied a generous amount of shrink wrap tape to hold the outer unit in place while I (prayed and) ran inside to get screws started
-go inside and screw in the trim ring screws and dogs. do not tighten the screws super tightly
-let set 2 days (1 was not enough; ask me how I know this!)
-tighten down the trim ring screws
-razor blade around the new caulk that squeezed out and remove the blue tape
-clean/wax hull in the affected areas

For the ER vents:
-removed vent
-cleaned up any caulk/residue around the vent on the hull and the vent itself (acetone)
-applied West System epoxy around the raw edge of the hull
-allowed to dry overnight
-re-installed the ER vents using new stainless screws


hope this is helpful!

Cheryl
2 person
 
Thanks Cheryl, very helpful advice. How much time would you figure it would take 2 people to do each portlight?

Also, I'm asking why on 2 days setup!
 
Wisconson.... IMHO, based on what you have for a season, I'd put some tub and tile caulk around them and deal with it in the fall/winter. Once you pull the frames, you may be in for more than you bargained. If the leaks in the portholes are via the gasket, there are set screws in each dog to tighten the "glass" against the gasket. I've had leaks due to so much dust and crap between the gasket and the hatch that there was no possible way for a decent seal. In those cases, soapy water and an old toothbrush, followed by a clean water rinse via a squirt bottle, followed by windex to get all the old oxidized rubber out followed by a clean water rinse followed by a rubber dressing of your choice.
 
I am just now finishing this job. All the port holes and also the ER vents. Not a particularly difficult job. I did it with the boat in the water. I did the job after the boat sat for winter in the covered slip, thinking that would give any moisture time to dry out as much as reasonably possible.

For the port holes:
-applied ring of blue tape on the outside around the port hole frame
-inside boat: removed screws on the inside around trim ring; removed the 3 dogs
-outside boat: used a putty knife and rubber mallet to pry the outer unit off of the hull. most of the time the gasket came along with it and was in reasonable shape so I re-used.
-cleaned the hull area with razor blade and acetone
-applied a generous bead of Life Caulk
-set exterior unit in place. this is where a second person would be handy (to hold it in place while you go inside and screw the trim ring back on). I did not have a second person so before I ran the caulk bead, I set out the trim ring, screwdriver, and screws in place on the inside so that I could get one screw in from the outside while I held the outer unit in place. This will not work for the sealed (non-opening) ports at the bow. For these, I applied a generous amount of shrink wrap tape to hold the outer unit in place while I (prayed and) ran inside to get screws started
-go inside and screw in the trim ring screws and dogs. do not tighten the screws super tightly
-let set 2 days (1 was not enough; ask me how I know this!)
-tighten down the trim ring screws
-razor blade around the new caulk that squeezed out and remove the blue tape
-clean/wax hull in the affected areas

For the ER vents:
-removed vent
-cleaned up any caulk/residue around the vent on the hull and the vent itself (acetone)
-applied West System epoxy around the raw edge of the hull
-allowed to dry overnight
-re-installed the ER vents using new stainless screws


hope this is helpful!

Cheryl
2 person


Cheryl, where did you source the portlights from? We need to do this job in its entirety as well.
 
Cheryl, where did you source the portlights from? We need to do this job in its entirety as well.

FYI, Cheryl hasn’t been on the board since 2017. When looking at old posts you may want to click the posters name and see if they are currently active or even recently active. Cheers
 

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