Yes, it is hardwired. But there are adapters readily available to go from your regular extension cord to the 30a shore power inlet on your boat.
PS: Thanks, Woody, for the link!
Yes, it is hardwired. But there are adapters readily available to go from your regular extension cord to the 30a shore power inlet on your boat.
PS: Thanks, Woody, for the link!
I thought that at first but then read about how people hire an electrician to install a shorepower station at their house. It needs a 30amp dedicated circuit right and i don't think i have that capability at home.
Nope. Stop reading things on the internet :smt001
You only need a 30amp supply if you'll be running many things on the boat at the same time, along with plugging things into the outlets. Get the adapter... plug it in... turn the charger on. Done. I trailered my 260DA (same shore power/charger setup) and ALWAYS had my charger running 24/7.
Besides... just think about it. IF you had (needed) a 30-amp setup at home, then you wouldn't use that pigtail adapter... which would then beg the question of why it exists, right?
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scoflaw
Well-Known Member
- Aug 10, 2011
- 6,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 Powerquest legend 260 sx 502 mag
2005 Baja 242 islander 496
- Engines
- 502 mpi Bravo 1
496 mag B1
They make a cheap adapter ,that goes from your shore power plug that plugs into any home outlet. Forget about a shore power station and the electrician at your house, this thing costs like 25 bucks. KISS
Ok so, they were talking about a full blown shorepower station at home. That'd be nice so i can winterize the ac/heat when i bring it home for the winter i guess. Or i can easily just winterize those items while at dock still.
You don't need the boat powered up to winterize those. In fact, you don't need electricity at all.
Yup. Pump it in with a simple hand pump from the thru-hull discharge fitting till it runs out the pick-up on the bottom of the hull. In other words, pump it in backwards.
A Bluetooth speaker, Altec Lansing super life jacket is what I have it sounds good, it's water proof, floats and even comes with a mount that fit on the rail
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You're welcome - good luck!
lbaratian
New Member
Does anyone know the best way to pump half the gas tank out? The boat sat for a year and a half before I bought it and the gas went bad. Any replies would be appreciated. Thanks
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JimT
Well-Known Member
- Jul 7, 2009
- 1,910
- Boat Info
- 2010 330 Sundancer
- Engines
- T-350mags w/BIIIs & Axius, 5.0 kw Kohler
Do you have a half tank of bad gas or a full tank and want to pump out half? How did you verify the gas is bad?
Thats 50 gallons so get a 55gallon barrel and suck it out with a pump. Google it, because you might have to take safety precautions such as grounding straps.
lbaratian
New Member
It's half a tank of bad gas that I want to pump out. I removed some of the gas from the fuel connection for the engine and the gas is green.
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Are you basing this solely on the color? It could have been heavily treated with Marine Stabil. Personally, I've never seen "bad" gas go green in color. It gets darker and starts to smell like varnish.
Easiest way to remove is by removing the sender and sucking it out there.
Woody
Well-Known Member
I haven’t had to remove fuel from my 280DA tank but I don’t like the idea of removing the tank sending unit to do it. The sending unit is accessed through the floor of the aft cabin. The potential for dirty mechanics, a spill in the cabin, or just stinkin’ things up is there. Then you have to redo the sending unit properly so it doesn’t leak and I’d guess the access plate should be re-caulked/sealed to prevent engine room fumes from getting into the cabin.
I’d unhook the fuel line going to the electric fuel shutoff valve and pump from there. If the boat was out of the water you could even run a hose out the transom drain plug and siphon.
I’d unhook the fuel line going to the electric fuel shutoff valve and pump from there. If the boat was out of the water you could even run a hose out the transom drain plug and siphon.
That could work, too. I guess it's one of those things that after you've done it many times, you tend to get comfortable with it. Resealing the sending unit and the access plate is about a 5 minute job - no biggie.
But if the OP isn't comfortable with it, then the fuel shutoff hose works well. One of the reasons I mentioned the sender location, though, is that it would enable pretty much ALL of the fuel to be removed. I believe the fuel pickup on this tank is on the side - meaning it doesn't go all the way to the bottom because of the tank shape.
It's a tight fit, but you may also be able to snake the hose from the midcabin, along the top of tank, to the bilge. And then just control the hose end from the midcabin.
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lbaratian
New Member
Woody
Well-Known Member
On my boat there is a platform across/foreward from the engine. The water tank or sometimes a generator sets on it. On my boat the shutoff valve is mounted on the edge of the platform at a height just right for scratching up my shins. It looks like this
