Oil Change Valve

Hi guys. It's been a while since I've been on here. Even longer since my boat has run. I've got it pretty much back together but I need to drain the oil. Can anyone tell me if there is an attachment or something for this valve? Originally I thought I could stick a hose on the end but I'm not so sure

Typically, most just suck it out through the dipstick if they can't reach the oil pan drain plug.

Is there supposed to be a picture in your post? I'm not sure what you mean by "valve".

Yes, there is supposed to be a picture... I can see it. Not sure why you can't. I thought I was supposed to suck it out through the dipstick as well but the tool I bought doesn't fit.

There is a cooper valve assembly sticking out of the oil pan. I really don't want to dump it in the bilge but from the mess it appears that's what the previous owner did.


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Link to pic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/recordgod/IMAG1005.jpg


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I can see the picture, now (also in the first post). Not sure why I couldn't before.

I'm familiar with Fumoto quick drain valves and use them on a couple different things. But the one you have there is not familiar to me. How does it work? Do you do something like push down or pull up on that brass, rectangular shaped part that is sticking up vertically? Where does the oil come out?

I might be wrong, given the age of your engine, but most Mercruiser engines use a 3/8" diameter dipstick tube. Meaning, you slip a 3/8" ID hose right over it and snug it down with a small hose clamp. Some oil extractors come with a very small diameter tube that is meant to be inserted INTO the dipstick tube... but I don't like those since it makes pumping the oil out VERY slow (small diameter tube).

I've see those valves. There are pros and cons. The following is my 2 cents and 2 cents don't buy much.

Warm up the engine on muffs.

Get a funnel with a long hose from auto zone or HD. Run the hose out the drain plug hole and into a bucket. Drain the oil via that valve through the funnel/hose.

Put an oil diaper under the pan. Remove the valve. Once you break the seal, IF it unscrews easily then hopefully the PO did not mess with the original threads.

Go to a speed shop. Get an "X" foot steel braid hose that reaches from the oil pan drain through the boats drain hole to the aforementioned bucket. Get a nipple fitting adapter to go from the pan to the hose. Get a screw on cap for the other end of the hose. Next time you have to change the oil:

Warm up the engine via the muffs.
Snake the hose through the boats drain hole.
Lift the hose higher than the oil pan drain plug hole (liquids seek their own level).
Unscrew the cap on the hose.
Put hose in bucket.
Let oil drain.
Replace oil filter.
Wipe off hose.
Replace cap.
Fill engine with oil.
Put oil drain hose back in bilge.

My ex's cousin did this on his boat years ago. It shortened his oil changing time from over an hour to 10 minutes. He hung the hose coiled either on the inside of the transom or the gunwale. It's been years. I don't recall. While he was doing this, he also installed a remote oil filter mount to make the job even easier.

Again my 2 cents.

Good luck.

This is similar to what David is referencing (so you have a visual). Merc makes a kit for this, too, that includes a special garboard drain plug that has a tether between it and the oil hose. So when you pull the drain plug out, you can keep pulling to pull the hose out. Or, don't even worry about pulling it through the drain plug hole - just keep it accessible in the bilge and do it there.

https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Drain-Kit-thread-size/dp/B0000BYO1R

You'll want to verify that you have 1/2" threads and not 12MM (but I'm sure 12mm kits are available, too). But given the age of the boat, it's more likely to have 1/2"... unless the pan has been changed.

Thanks for the suggestions. I just may go that route. To further explain what I was looking at see the pics below. The oil drains from the front of the valve. I found a piece of tubing in the barn that fit over it and I snaked it out the boat's drain hole into an oil pan so no mess. Although since I couldn't warm the motor it took FOREVER to drain. I just left it over to finish over night so I'll refill it when I get home.



The pump I bought to pull oil out of dipstick...

Using your existing brass valve with a hose attached is the way to go. No different than the kit LazyDaze was referring to.
FWIW, my boat came from the factory with that oil drain kit already installed. I've always done my changes via the hose out the bilge drain hole. I do warm up the engine but the oil still drains slow.