340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Has anyone replaced or relocated the factory spot on the 340 DA? (I have a 2002 generation.) I have noticed at night that there is a meaningful amount of glare on the stainless bow rail and rail support when using the spot. When you're trying to keep your night vision, it's really troublesome to have that reflecting back at you. It's gotten to where I don't even use it, and prefer my handheld spot, which has a narrower beam, and causes less glare, even though it's going over the whole bow from the helm position. It's a real drag not being able to effectively use that spot coming into a dark mooring field. Anyone else have a problem with this? It seems like the light has to either be moved so that the cowling around the lens is forward of the edge of the rail, or mounted somewhere else. There's a "spot" vs "Flood" option on the control panel, but they both seem to have enough beam leakage to cause the glare.
 
Has anyone replaced or relocated the factory spot on the 340 DA? (I have a 2002 generation.) I have noticed at night that there is a meaningful amount of glare on the stainless bow rail and rail support when using the spot. When you're trying to keep your night vision, it's really troublesome to have that reflecting back at you. It's gotten to where I don't even use it, and prefer my handheld spot, which has a narrower beam, and causes less glare, even though it's going over the whole bow from the helm position. It's a real drag not being able to effectively use that spot coming into a dark mooring field. Anyone else have a problem with this? It seems like the light has to either be moved so that the cowling around the lens is forward of the edge of the rail, or mounted somewhere else. There's a "spot" vs "Flood" option on the control panel, but they both seem to have enough beam leakage to cause the glare.

I have not used my spot light enough yet to experience this problem, but what about using a different style bulb?.....maybe there is a type of bulb that is more directional and closer to being a true 'spot light' with a more focused beam....kind of like the security lights on a house....you can use either a 'flood light' or a 'spot light' bulb....the bulbs appear to be identical on the outside.....with a more focused beam that may be enough to relieve the glare off the railing....

as an awkard alternative you could slip something over the front railing at night to block the glare such as pipe insulation.....

cliff
 
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Has anyone replaced or relocated the factory spot on the 340 DA? (I have a 2002 generation.) I have noticed at night that there is a meaningful amount of glare on the stainless bow rail and rail support when using the spot. When you're trying to keep your night vision, it's really troublesome to have that reflecting back at you. It's gotten to where I don't even use it, and prefer my handheld spot, which has a narrower beam, and causes less glare, even though it's going over the whole bow from the helm position. It's a real drag not being able to effectively use that spot coming into a dark mooring field. Anyone else have a problem with this? It seems like the light has to either be moved so that the cowling around the lens is forward of the edge of the rail, or mounted somewhere else. There's a "spot" vs "Flood" option on the control panel, but they both seem to have enough beam leakage to cause the glare.

I have the same problem and on my winter project list is to make a 'sleeve' out of matching Bimini canvas with Velcro to cover the bow rail front section which should eliminate the problem.
 
I bought a 1988 Sundancer 340 this past July and would really like to replace the rubber around my cabin windows and windshield. So you having done all the work (!), is the rubber on my '88 340 the same? And if so what are the item numbers and I'll order mine. I'd love to see pictures of your finished work!

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
I bought a 1988 Sundancer 340 this past July and would really like to replace the rubber around my cabin windows and windshield. So you having done all the work (!), is the rubber on my '88 340 the same? And if so what are the item numbers and I'll order mine. I'd love to see pictures of your finished work!

Thanks in advance for any help!


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Originally Posted by jaymos
Looking for a good resource where I can find window trim for my 1988 340DA. Just posting to see if anyone on here has already done the work?
I have 3 different types of rubber trim pieces on my exterior side windows and windshield. Done a bit of web searches and having a tough time finding anything that resembles what I have.

Thoughts?



Let me republish my response for you. Unfortunately you have to do the homework to findimage.jpg your part numbers. The stuff is way to expensive to guess....

Just did this on my 1985 340. A pain in the butt but well worth the trouble. Looks fantastic. My parts may be different from yours because of the age difference but they were all produced by the same manufacturer. You wont know till you engage Taylor....


First, when you contact Taylor (they supplied the original product to Searay) they tell you to look at the catalog and order from your Searay dealer...they dont deal direct. Now when I tried to use the cataolog to find a replacement for tired, dried out, curled up, dead, 30 year old rubber it was really impossible. Several items look similar in the catalog and nothing looked like my samples, which resembled dried out curled up rabbit dung. This back and forth went on for weeks between me, the dealer, and Taylor...until I finally Figured out how to get Them to give me the parts numbers I needed...

here is the codebreaker when dealing with Taylor. Dont talk to them on the phone, they brush you and your dealer off. ( Its hard to believe sometimes they are actually trying to sell there own product). Instead, Cut about a two inch chunk of each type of rubber or hard vinyl you want to replace... and mail it to them in New York. Ask for samples and parts numbers. I know this is hard to do because it leaves a hole on your boat! But if its beat up then go for it. Taylor wiil immediately respond back with samples and item numbers and your done. Order through your Searay dealer and keep in mind some stuff comes in 12 foot sections, some by the foot. Get your measurements right because there is a $25 handling fee for each order, and the product isnt cheap. The pix above is obviously the "before picture". Had missing rubber for a few weeks when I sent pieces into Taylor.

Words cant describe the small pleasure that came from finally successfully snapping those three little samples into the different slots on my windshield. Felt like christmas when the parts package came from Taylor...yup..they make you order and work thru Searay, wont deal with you on the phone, and then ship directly to you, not the dealer. Finally a small piece of sanity in a company with policies only the phone company could love. Go figure.

Good luck!
 
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I agree the factory spot is all but worthless. You would like to think Sea Ray would have figured this out early on.

First off the light itself is worthless. I literally have flashlights that run on 1AA battery that will blow it away. I get it that it is 15 years old but my 20 year old handheld 1 million candlepower does fine. The factory spot. Not so much.

To add insult to injury it kills your night vision by blasting all kinds of light on the deck.

I too am interested to hear about what people have done with this if anything. I will say if there isn't a bulb change or way to make it brighter it isn't worth using because I wouldn't use it anyway.

Its kinda like it was genius for them to put a dimmer switch to dim down the instrument gauges to help your night vision. But why doesn't it dim the switch lights also.... Or is mine broke?
 
Looking for input on what you are doing with the sink location aft the cockpit seat?
Mine does not have any plumbing and is really just the equivalent of a fiberglass ice bucket that I use for storage.
Been thinking of maybe installing a small beverage fridge in that location and looking for thoughts.
 
OK 340 owners, here is your big chance for some discounted upgrades. As many of you are aware, we sold our beloved 2002 340 a few months ago, and although I was unaware of this at the time, my wife had commissioned a mattress company to make a custom mattress for the V-berth. It arrived after we sold the boat, so it's sitting upstairs, still wrapped in plastic. This is a custom, 7" thick foam mattress, with a stitched topper. It is 2 pieces, just like the original, so forward locker access is preserved. And yes, it is WAY more comfortable than the original. If anyone is interested, send me a PM, and we can discuss specifics.

I also have quite a few leftover 340 items - trim pieces, replacement shaft seals, etc. I also have a couple of my custom drink holders left - one in teak, the other in white polyethylene, custom made for the 1999 - 2002 340. And, of course, I still offer my davit systems.

Dale
 
Ahh the joys of a new mattress. If I didn't need to paint the bottom on my rig this winter I'd be all over that thing. I've got a single piece foam mattress that "doesn't quite fit" perfectly. Clearly a DIY job by the prior owner. Still fully sleepable but not perfect.

Foam is a great way to go. I'm sure you'll find a buyer!
 
Looking to purchase a '99 340 Dancer. There may be a clearance issue with a bridge getting to and from my marina. Does anyone know the height of the arch from the waterline? I cannot find anything on line from Sea Ray regarding specs for the arch. I know the obvious other solution would be to change marinas but I would like to find out if that is necessary first.
Thanks
Geoh
 
Looking to purchase a '99 340 Dancer. There may be a clearance issue with a bridge getting to and from my marina. Does anyone know the height of the arch from the waterline? I cannot find anything on line from Sea Ray regarding specs for the arch. I know the obvious other solution would be to change marinas but I would like to find out if that is necessary first.
Thanks
Geoh

If you go to the Sea Ray website you can download the manual. It will give you the dimensions. I think all you have to do is submit your email address. Be warned - I think the 99 manual is a scanned copy of the original. It's not as polished as you might expect but I guess 1999 was a 18 years ago now...

And for what it's worth the arch will come off if it needs to....

Good luck with your purchase! We love our 99 340 though we'd like to go bigger as soon as the time is right for us...
 
Stereo Fuse

Can anyone help with location of the yellow power cable Fuse for the Clarion stereo in 2006 340. There is one inline Fuse behind unit but this is good and no 12v to the cable .


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Proplanner, Does the light on the dash panel light up ? If not, check the breaker under the steering wheel. That is where the power comes from.
 
Hi Korkie,

The EIM fuse is OK and light is on the helm music panel. The cockpit 12v TV is on same switch and it works.
 
The wire should have a number on it. If you can find it (close to the radio), pull out your owners manual and follow it on the diagrams. You May have to get into the harness and check the respective wire coming out of the EIM I had to chase a similar problem down for my blowers and it was connector the wire was poorly assembled. Power on one side but none coming out the other. I worked backwards from the blower when I found mine.
 
Making the jump from fresh to salt this season. My 2004 is pretty much stock. Any mods I should consider other than the following; New nav/radar, new bottom paint, check zincs... I also read a post in the past of the top 10 mods to consider for the 340, can't seem to find the post now.
 
Making the jump from fresh to salt this season. My 2004 is pretty much stock. Any mods I should consider other than the following; New nav/radar, new bottom paint, check zincs... I also read a post in the past of the top 10 mods to consider for the 340, can't seem to find the post now.

I would check to see if you still have the aluminum manifolds on the 8.1s and possibly change out your anodes for the salt water use if applicable. If you have the aluminum manifolds you will want to budget to get those swapped out for salt water use.

-Kevin
 
Hello,
I'm considering buying about a 2005/2006 vintage Sundancer 340. I like the idea of the V-drives for much less maint. cost than outdrives. Is there any down side??? I would also lean toward smaller engines than the 8.1's for a little more working room (or does that not make any difference?). I would love to hear feedback from current owners of what to look for and what to avoid on 2000-ish 340's.

Thanks!
 

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