Official 400EC thread

1993 400EC.

i have the Cruiseair AC in the main cabin and a unit under the forward stateroom bed. Main cabin unit works as advertised, has a SRX(?) digital controller.

When the forward unit is running solo I get a HI PS warning. When the aft unit is running and the water circulation pump is on the front unit runs fine. When the aft unit stops demand on the water pump and shuts it off this shuts off the forward unit.

So essentially we know the aft unit works as advertised and apparently there is a switch that regulates the raw water pump. Apparently that switch on the front unit is not working.

Am I correct in this assessment? Is there a switch on the Cruiseair that regulates the pump?
 
Also, anyone know the fuel burn of a Quicksilver 7.5 genset (gas) and I assume the fuel for the genset feeds from the starboard tank.
 
CaptRonn said:
1993 400EC.

i have the Cruiseair AC in the main cabin and a unit under the forward stateroom bed. Main cabin unit works as advertised, has a SRX(?) digital controller.

When the forward unit is running solo I get a HI PS warning. When the aft unit is running and the water circulation pump is on the front unit runs fine. When the aft unit stops demand on the water pump and shuts it off this shuts off the forward unit.

So essentially we know the aft unit works as advertised and apparently there is a switch that regulates the raw water pump. Apparently that switch on the front unit is not working.

Am I correct in this assessment? Is there a switch on the Cruiseair that regulates the pump?
Click to expand...

You are correct. There is a switch in the control of the ac that triggers the ac pump to operate. Looks like the one on the forward unit is bad. Can't remember the name of the relay, but I am sure someone else can.
 
CaptRonn said:
Also, anyone know the fuel burn of a Quicksilver 7.5 genset (gas) and I assume the fuel for the genset feeds from the starboard tank.
Click to expand...

The genset on my 1994 400 Express feeds from the starboard tank. I would presume the fuel burn is under or near 1 gph. That should be a good guesstimate.
 
h_gerry said:
You are correct. There is a switch in the control of the ac that triggers the ac pump to operate. Looks like the one on the forward unit is bad. Can't remember the name of the relay, but I am sure someone else can.
Click to expand...

So the switch is in the control head or on the ac unit itself?
 
I would like to get my tachometers calibrated. One of them is off by maybe 100rpm or so. don't know exactly for sure which one but it bugs me. Send them back to the mfg. or .....? Any thoughts on this?
 
TIDALWAVE said:
I would like to get my tachometers calibrated. One of them is off by maybe 100rpm or so. don't know exactly for sure which one but it bugs me. Send them back to the mfg. or .....? Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...


Prob. less expensive to replace with new ones...

FPmarine should have them..look at the "legend" series.
 
CaptRonn said:
So the switch is in the control head or on the ac unit itself?
Click to expand...

it should be in the box on the ac unit itself. I only opened it once on my unit and believe it was in there.
 
So, as I mentioned previously, the refrigerator installation is complete. Here is a picture of the finished job

f3cf7ce11f34bdbd7c92617094082fbc.jpg


As I also mentioned, I have been having a problem with the fridge (old and new) not running on 12v. For the old fridge I figured it was a bad power supply. Would make sense, right? Original 22 year old fridge. These things happen. Well when I put the new fridge in same issue. Not running on 12v. Isolated the problem to be an issue with the power lines to the fridge. She would read 13v on the meter but when a load was put on it the voltage would drop to 2-3v. I finally got into it today. Started with checking the switch at the main panel to see if I had same issue with loosing voltage under load. Since I had to start somewhere figured this would be a good spot. Well, I am happy to report the fridge is now running on 12v. What I am not sure about is how many hours I put on my generator to keep the fridge going because the screw that connects the power lead from the panel switch was loose!!!! It was there. The wire was on it but it was so loose the wire was barely touching anything. It would read voltage but could not carry any kind of load.

Gotta love boats!

Moral of the story, check the simple things first and don't assume anything is correct until you check it first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Norcold seems to be selling a lot of their refrigerators lately. Here is my addition!
 

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TIDALWAVE said:
Norcold seems to be selling a lot of their refrigerators lately. Here is my addition!
Click to expand...


I like it with the white fronts...

My new one isn't keeping the ice cream rock solid.
Its OK but, was hoping for more cold in the freezer..
I checked for heat build up behind the unit and there's none so, that's not it?

Also I took the time to swap the door swing and still not sure I like it..?

 
Does anyone have a dedicated trim tabs circuit breaker in the group of rocker switches at the helm? The manual reads "(Trim tabs) are protected by a circuit breaker on the helm switch panel which must be ON to use the trim planes (tabs)." However, I don't see anything labeled as such at the helm. Attempting to diagnose an issue with my tabs.
 
pm4_1613 said:
Does anyone have a dedicated trim tabs circuit breaker in the group of rocker switches at the helm? The manual reads "(Trim tabs) are protected by a circuit breaker on the helm switch panel which must be ON to use the trim planes (tabs)." However, I don't see anything labeled as such at the helm. Attempting to diagnose an issue with my tabs.
Click to expand...

I don't have any switch to activate my trim tabs, If the battery's on the tabs work.
Now there's got to be a fuse somewhere in the system to protect it.....not sure where.
I'd guess open the hatch below the steering wheel and look for blade type of fuse in that block of fuses..
You can also check for power at the trim tab pump..lift out the rear access hatch..port side next to the generator in front of the fresh water pump..
 
Thanks! I will definitely check it out when I head to the lake tomorrow.
 
I believe the antique white panels lighten up the interior some. My frig is working fine....I judge that only because my beer is cold. Not sure about the ice cream though!:grin:
 
I have the Vitrofrigo as well. I have had it six yeas now and zero issues

My new one isn't keeping the ice cream rock solid.
Its OK but, was hoping for more cold in the freezer..
I checked for heat build up behind the unit and there's none so, that's not it?

Also I took the time to swap the door swing and still not sure I like it..?

[/QUOTE]
 
Searaybio270 said:
I have the Vitrofrigo as well. I have had it six yeas now and zero issues

My new one isn't keeping the ice cream rock solid.
Its OK but, was hoping for more cold in the freezer..
I checked for heat build up behind the unit and there's none so, that's not it?

Also I took the time to swap the door swing and still not sure I like it..?

Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]

Edit to my report about NOT freezing ice cream solid.
Didn't realize it wasn't set to full cold....now it'll freeze ice cream solid as a rock :)
 
Searching for trim to go around switch panels on 1993 400EC...found new guarge panels but can't locate trim. (I have toggle switches, not rockers). Also looking for Old style 4" sync guage (have found everything else new).
 
AvaLee said:
Searching for trim to go around switch panels on 1993 400EC...found new guarge panels but can't locate trim. (I have toggle switches, not rockers). Also looking for Old style 4" sync guage (have found everything else new).
Click to expand...

Try http://www.searay-parts.com/ -they have many surplus Sea Ray parts and accessories.

If the trim is the vinyl material, you may want to ask an upholstery shop if they can make it.
 
Best of my knowledge the big sync guage isn't available anywhere.
You may have to custom make a spacer ring or a whole new panal to accept a new smaller diameter gauge.

I agree with Harold about making a trim ring around your switches.
 
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