Flush pro kit

The closed cooling system is one of two cooling systems on your boat. The heat absorbed by the coolant on the closed side is dissipated in flowing sea water on the second (raw water) side. Think of the raw water side like a radiator on your car. The Salt Away would treat the raw water side of your system.

HTH

So how can I tell if there is a flush system.already installed? where do I look?
 
I'll check. still confused on this. no one in my marina flushes their engines. I've never heard our mechanic mention anything about this. I'll ask him when he is back from vacation.
 
I'll check. still confused on this. no one in my marina flushes their engines. I've never heard our mechanic mention anything about this. I'll ask him when he is back from vacation.

My new boat has system for the diesels that's all automatic, complicated to say the least,
but automatic just the same.....so i think maybe the new boats will have the hookups as an option.
 
Hmm, I have seen this on my boat and have been afraid to use it. Is it for flushing at the dock or winterizing? my engines have a heat exchangers
Anyone familiar with this?

Flush-port.jpg
 
Hmm, I have seen this on my boat and have been afraid to use it. Is it for flushing at the dock or winterizing? my engines have a heat exchangers
Anyone familiar with this?

View attachment 46340

This is for flushing but NOT for running the engine. Just run fresh water thru that adapter after a day of running.


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This is for flushing but NOT for running the engine. Just run fresh water thru that adapter after a day of running.


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Careful here.....the placard says "engine operation required"
So, read the owners manual for the proper use.
 
Valkyrie, regarding the flush or not to flush debate... Think of it this way: Just because some people don't do it, doesn't mean it's a bad idea to (or more helpful) do it. In other words, I wouldn't base YOUR decision on other people around you saying something like "nobody does that, not worth it". When in reality, they're only talking about "nobody around here", not "nobody" at all - since many, many people flush their engines. Or, try this... a certain group of people don't wear their seatbelts. When a person asks "should I wear mine", the response is "nah, nobody around here wears it - you'll be fine".

The issue comes from not having a convenient way to do it (unless a system has been installed). Without a system, you'd need to raise your outdrive, lean over and fit the muffs on the intakes, lower the drive and turn the water on, then run the engine. Repeat for the other drive. Certainly not very convenient - but there's no arguing that it would be a good thing to do.

Tony - the flush attachment (as noted on the sticker, and as Mark pointed out) IS designed to be used with the engine running (but double check that the flush hose T's in on the sterndrive side of the raw water pump, just for good measure) - but keep the RPM's below about 1,000. If you don't run the engine, you'll really only be flushing the drive. Although it's still worthwhile to do it if the boat is in the water, it is obviously more effective if the boat is out of the water. Although, if the boat were out of the water, you could simply use the muff attachment. The manual you should be looking at for more information (whether it's about this particular flushing attachment, or flushing in general) is in (should be) your engine manual, not the boat's owner's manual.
 
Valkyrie, regarding the flush or not to flush debate... Think of it this way: Just because some people don't do it, doesn't mean it's a bad idea to (or more helpful) do it. In other words, I wouldn't base YOUR decision on other people around you saying something like "nobody does that, not worth it". When in reality, they're only talking about "nobody around here", not "nobody" at all - since many, many people flush their engines. Or, try this... a certain group of people don't wear their seatbelts. When a person asks "should I wear mine", the response is "nah, nobody around here wears it - you'll be fine".

The issue comes from not having a convenient way to do it (unless a system has been installed). Without a system, you'd need to raise your outdrive, lean over and fit the muffs on the intakes, lower the drive and turn the water on, then run the engine. Repeat for the other drive. Certainly not very convenient - but there's no arguing that it would be a good thing to do.

Tony - the flush attachment (as noted on the sticker, and as Mark pointed out) IS designed to be used with the engine running (but double check that the flush hose T's in on the sterndrive side of the raw water pump, just for good measure) - but keep the RPM's below about 1,000. If you don't run the engine, you'll really only be flushing the drive. Although it's still worthwhile to do it if the boat is in the water, it is obviously more effective if the boat is out of the water. Although, if the boat were out of the water, you could simply use the muff attachment. The manual you should be looking at for more information (whether it's about this particular flushing attachment, or flushing in general) is in (should be) your engine manual, not the boat's owner's manual.

My 03 formula with 496/bravo 3's had that adapter and I was advised by dealer at delivery to not run boat if using that adapter to flush while boat is in water. The drives in full tilt position were still below water line so running the boat would have defeated the purpose as still sucking water thru the drives. Perhaps your boat is different, sorry for confusion.


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My 03 formula with 496/bravo 3's had that adapter and I was advised by dealer at delivery to not run boat if using that adapter to flush while boat is in water. The drives in full tilt position were still below water line so running the boat would have defeated the purpose as still sucking water thru the drives. Perhaps your boat is different, sorry for confusion.


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No worries!

For one, just for reference, never run an engine with a drive at full tilt as it could cause damage to the drive. But, if I can infer a little bit to what they were getting at (or maybe the way they should have explained it to you)... As I briefly mentioned above, while it's MORE effective when the boat is out of the water, it is still effective to do it when it's in the water. Yes, some salt water will be sucked in along with the fresh water, but the majority of the water going through the engine will be fresh water. After shutting the engine off, leaving the water run for a minute will help to clear the drive of salt (the part above the waterline, anyways). It may not get everything, but it's certainly better than nothing.
 
After shutting the engine off, leaving the water run for a minute will help to clear the drive of salt (the part above the waterline, anyways). It may not get everything, but it's certainly better than nothing.

Morning Dennis,

We thought that after rinsing with flush kit with the fresh water with salt away then to shut the engine off first , then the water, and then
with the engine off give it a final 1 minute rinse to clear the drive?

There are different opinions of what to do first, and last when flushing, we think to start the flush, you start engine then the flush, to finish, stop the flush first and then shut off engine.
Does that sound right?
 
This from Saltaways website they explain everything about using the strainer method or mixing unit, I'd suggest reading their website or call their CS I have they're very helpful.

DIRECTIONS:

Remove the cap from the sea strainer, pour about 4 fl oz (118 ml) of Salt-Away into the sea strainer, and replace the cap.

Start the engine, and shut it down immediately upon seeing the foaming action exiting into the water.

Salt-Away must remain in the raw water system.

Tip: The first time this is tried, using a watch with a second hand, it is good to measure the time it takes Salt-Away to get to the exhaust by asking a friend to tell you when the foaming action is visible at the stern. After then, time the engine flush by using your watch.

If the Salt-Away is flushed through, then followed by sea water, the procedure will not work.

http://www.saltawayproducts.com/InboardFlushingPage.htm
 
Last edited:
Thank you Bob......
 
Bill, part of what "routine" you pick will depend on which system to use on the 240SD (assuming you're still getting rid of the Perko and installing something else). If you go with the bronze shut-off valves that we discussed, that would carry a different routine than the system that Tony has.
 
Bill, part of what "routine" you pick will depend on which system to use on the 240SD (assuming you're still getting rid of the Perko and installing something else). If you go with the bronze shut-off valves that we discussed, that would carry a different routine than the system that Tony has.

Thanks Dennis,
Mark wants to keep the Perko since he's already paid to have it installed, not knowing before hand the possible consequences
so the routine for him as of today would be what??
 
I would:

-- Turn on water supply
-- Start engine
-- Run on water only for about 10 minutes (while other things are being done around the boat)
-- Now add the SaltAway for the appropriate amount of time
-- Turn off engine
-- Turn off water supply. You don't necessarily need to "rush" to turn off the water supply, but don't dilly dally too long, either :smt001
 
I would:

-- Turn on water supply
-- Start engine
-- Run on water only for about 10 minutes (while other things are being done around the boat)
-- Now add the SaltAway for the appropriate amount of time
-- Turn off engine
-- Turn off water supply. You don't necessarily need to "rush" to turn off the water supply, but don't dilly dally too long, either :smt001

GOT IT..........Thanks
 
Thanks Dennis,
Mark wants to keep the Perko since he's already paid to have it installed, not knowing before hand the possible consequences
so the routine for him as of today would be what??

The proper routine would be to remove it.
Are you really going to leave that in you boat knowing it has the potential to fail in a way that could possibly cause your boat to sink?
 
The proper routine would be to remove it.
Are you really going to leave that in you boat knowing it has the potential to fail in a way that could possibly cause your boat to sink?

Thanks Westie,
I appreciate your concern, but its not my boat, its my grandson Marks boat to whom i posted the thread for,
he will remove it next year spring 2017 but until that time he will use it because that's what he wants to do....
 

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