340 SUNDANCER THREAD

ty, good call on checking the deck for soft spots, I recall the owner saying the engines had riser spacers fitted, can you tell by the pic in the add if it has been converted? had 2 new long block engines in Nov 2015

I can't say for sure you don't have the proper exhaust but I can tell you that yours does not look like mine. I've got a large "canister" on each main where both manifolds connect before it exits to the top and then out the side.

Does that exhaust angle down anywhere aft of the motors? Did the owner tell you why the engines were replaced?
 
I can't say for sure you don't have the proper exhaust but I can tell you that yours does not look like mine. I've got a large "canister" on each main where both manifolds connect before it exits to the top and then out the side.

Does that exhaust angle down anywhere aft of the motors? Did the owner tell you why the engines were replaced?

I think one was cooked due to a failed impeller coming back from Rottnest Island, and he had both replaced at the one time due to age, I will check on that and the exhaust angle when I catch up with him next week
 
I can't say for sure you don't have the proper exhaust but I can tell you that yours does not look like mine. I've got a large "canister" on each main where both manifolds connect before it exits to the top and then out the side.

Does that exhaust angle down anywhere aft of the motors? Did the owner tell you why the engines were replaced?

One other comment - I'm not familiar with the Australia used boat market but the price on that 2001 would be at very high end here for that body style. Even with new engines I think you'd be hard pressed to get $80k around here. Average price for freshwater 99-02's was in the low $70's when I checked earlier this year. Perhaps your area is quite different, however.
 
I think one was cooked due to a failed impeller coming back from Rottnest Island, and he had both replaced at the one time due to age, I will check on that and the exhaust angle when I catch up with him next week

Hmmm....do you trust this guy? Cooking an engine due to a failed impeller seems far-fetched with the warnings/gauge indications he would have had. And replacing the other engine "just because" and then sell it? I'd have a lot more questions for the guy if I were in your shoes.
 
ty, good call on checking the deck for soft spots, I recall the owner saying the engines had riser spacers fitted, can you tell by the pic in the add if it has been converted? had 2 new long block engines in Nov 2015

the exhaust in the pics is the original 'log style' design.....the 'water lift muffler' design exhaust has a large canister that replaces the long tubes...

cliff
 
that price is AUD, works out to around 73k USD, and there isn't quit the number of used Sea Rays here as USA, he does seem genuine but I will ask more about the cause of the engine failure, he is a pilot and seems over the top with maintenance perhaps due to the standard that aircraft have to be?
 
Hello - there are so many posts it is overwhelming and I have searched and not found what I am looking for, if it is even known. I have a 1986 340 454's. I am looking for info on the most economical rpm/speed to cruise. I know all boats are a bit different, but I have only had this boat a short time and I am hoping some other 340 folks might give me some comparables. *I tend to spend a lot of time at 2800-2900 rpm which gets me about 18-19 knots - it is a comfortable speed, but I am thinking that it might not be the most economical. Would I be best cruising at 3000? *3300?





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Hmmm....do you trust this guy? Cooking an engine due to a failed impeller seems far-fetched with the warnings/gauge indications he would have had. And replacing the other engine "just because" and then sell it? I'd have a lot more questions for the guy if I were in your shoes.

spoke to the owner today, one engine seized due to manifold/riser blockage, and the other ran that hot coming back from Rottnest (app 12 nm) that it was damaged and replaced the the same time. The manifolds have been fitted with the extra spacer plates to minimise the chance of death by water ingestion, he is coming to look at my 240 Thursday, and I can look at his on Saturday
 
I have a 2000 340DA that I trailer from Preist River, ID to Anacortes, WA once a year to cruise the San Juans. I tow it with a 2009 Dodge 3500 Dually. No problems!
 
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Has anyone had any experience removing their cabin door? Specifically, my door is sliding very stiffly, and it feels like there may be some damage to the upper track. There are the obvious 4 screws to remove on the hatch above that upper track, but what happens after that? You can't see anything of the track assembly itself, and I don't want to unscrew it, and then have a terrible time getting things lined back up under there to replace the screws! I've searched the forum to no avail, so any advice would be appreciated!
 
Has anyone had any experience removing their cabin door? Specifically, my door is sliding very stiffly, and it feels like there may be some damage to the upper track. There are the obvious 4 screws to remove on the hatch above that upper track, but what happens after that? You can't see anything of the track assembly itself, and I don't want to unscrew it, and then have a terrible time getting things lined back up under there to replace the screws! I've searched the forum to no avail, so any advice would be appreciated!

Order the parts from Flounder Pounder and have someone experienced fix it. I could have done it but didn't want to loose a day fixing it.
 
Hey! Has anyone ever tightened up the aft end of hand rails, located on the top of the boat, where the sun pad would go.
both of mine are loose.
 
Hey! Has anyone ever tightened up the aft end of hand rails, located on the top of the boat, where the sun pad would go.
both of mine are loose.

don't know how to tighten these nuts but i hope you get it done soon....sounds like a good way for water to leak into the wooden coring on the deck....that would not be good....

good luck....

cliff
 
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I had the same problem, but on the port side only. I was told to take the shroud down around the port "sky light" You're supposed to be able to access the bolt. I tried.....good luck. I just ended up putting some 5200 around it.
 
Looking for a good resource where I can find window trim for my 1988 340DA. Just posting to see if anyone on here has already done the work?
I have 3 different types of rubber trim pieces on my exterior side windows and windshield. Done a bit of web searches and having a tough time finding anything that resembles what I have.

Thoughts?
 
I am looking at buying a 1989 Sea Ray 340 that appears to be in pretty good shape. About 310 hours on rebuilt engines, newish generator (5 years old with roughly 162 hours) but I'm stumped at something I've not seen on other older 340s. The radar arch has latches so that it can be unlatched and either removed or possibly lowered. Is this likely something a previous owner did or was this an option in 1989? Seems strange to me.
 
Looking for a good resource where I can find window trim for my 1988 340DA. Just posting to see if anyone on here has already done the work?
I have 3 different types of rubber trim pieces on my exterior side windows and windshield. Done a bit of web searches and having a tough time finding anything that resembles what I have.

Thoughts?
jus did this on my 1985 340. A pain in the butt but well worth the trouble. Looks fantastic. My parts might be different from yours because of the age difference but they were all produced by the same manufacturer.

First, when you contact Taylor (they supplied the original product to Searay) they tell you to look at the catalog and order from your Searay dealer...they dont deal direct. Now when I tried to use the cataolog to find a replacement for tired, dried out, curled up, dead, 30 year old rubber it was really impossible. Several items look similar in the catalog and nothing looked like my samples, which resembled dried out curled up rabbit dung. This back and forth went on for weeks between me, the dealer, and Taylor...until I finally Figured out how to get Them to give me the parts numbers I needed...

here is the codebreaker when dealing with Taylor. Dont talk to them on the phone, they brush you and your dealer off. ( Its hard to believe sometimes they are actually trying to sell there own product). Instead, Cut about a two inch chunk of each type of rubber or hard vinyl you want to replace... and mail it to them in New York. Ask for samples and parts numbers. I know this is hard to do because it leaves a hole on your boat! But if its beat up then go for it. Taylor wiil immediately respond back with samples and item numbers and your done. Order through your Searay dealer and keep in mind some stuff comes in 12 foot sections, some by the foot. Get your measurements right because there is a $25 handling fee for each order, and the product isnt cheap.

Words cant describe the small pleasure that came from finally successfully snapping those three little samples into the different slots on my windshield. Felt like christmas when the parts package came from Taylor...yup..they make you order and work thru Searay, wont deal with you on the phone, and then ship directly to you, not the dealer. Finally a small piece of sanity in a company with policies only the phone company could love. Go figure.

Good luck!
 
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