1st time she quit on me!

B

bbwhitejr

Well-Known Member
Apr 14, 2013
4,304
Lake Lanier GA
Boat Info
2003 420DA, 6CTAs
Engines
NA
Loaded up and to Lake Lanier we went early Sat am. Great weekend on the hook with hot, but dry weather and all systems performed flawlessly until the end.

Pulled up up anchor around 2:30p this afternoon and started the 10 or so mile run to the ramp. All gauges indicating that all systems are great-oil pressure at 58.9psi and temp running at 159* all while on plane at 3750rpms.

At about the 1/2 way point, 2-beeps and "Check Engine" comes on the SmartCraft. No loss of rpms and all systems still look the same. I make the assumption that maybe the trim fluid has burped or the float or sensors are dirty. The 2-beeps continue every minute or so. As we approach the ramp, I watch as the temp drops to 156 and then to 154. As I idle(1200 rpms) toward the ramp, the 2- beeps continue and I raise the hatch to see the trim resivoir right at the full line.

When I am 100 yards from the dock, I pull her back to idle as slow as it goes-600 rpms. As we make our approach, she dies. Cut the key off, wait 30 seconds, get the normal start up alarms, but engine doesn't even try to turn over-no click, no nothing. Drop anchor and continue to try a couple of times with normal start up alarms, but nothing else when the key is turned.

Kill switch is in run position. Checked the main breaker on top of the engine-not tripped. Battery cables tight. Maybe 15 mins after initial shut down, tried again and engine was turning over. Took a while, but she finally caught and we idled to the dock. Still getting the 2-beeps, but she started.

Shut back down to get the trailer and prepare to load. Tried to start again to load and she would turn over and almost catch, but would not start.

I was thrown a curve when initially, after it shut itself down, it would not click or turnover or nothing. Sat there awhile, and began to turnover and "caught" one time, but would not catch again. Vapor lock? Have CF3.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bennett
 
When you had the no crank condition did you hear the slave solenoid click over? We had a similar issue (older motors, no smartcraft) and it turned out to be loose cables at the starter. The slave solenoid would engage but the leads for both the high current and the solenoid on the starter were so loose from a rough trip across the lake that it wasn't making contact.

I doubt that would cause a smartcraft alarm, but it might be worth checking connections at the motor end as well.
 
Strecker25 said:
When you had the no crank condition did you hear the slave solenoid click over? We had a similar issue (older motors, no smartcraft) and it turned out to be loose cables at the starter. The slave solenoid would engage but the leads for both the high current and the solenoid on the starter were so loose from a rough trip across the lake that it wasn't making contact.

I doubt that would cause a smartcraft alarm, but it might be worth checking connections at the motor end as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ryan-No click no nothing. I did check the cables at the starter as well as at the batteries. All connections are clean and tight.

Bennett
 
Neutral start switch? Was the boat fully in neutral?
You may want to pull a spark plug or two and see if they have any water on them. I just lost an engine under similar circumstances, was running fine at cruise and when I went to idle, it died and would not turn over. Turned out it hydrolocked, water in all 8 cylinders. After it cooled, I was able to get it to crank a bit but not fire. I don't think this is your issue but it's easy enough to check and eliminate.
 
I agree with Scorpio, she might be hydrolocked
 
Smartcraft doesn't monitor fuel pressure so rule that out, but the alarm is the starting point. Need to connect the computer up to see what code was set.
the fact that is was DOA and wouldn't turn over seems to indicate electrical. Then it started working again,or at least turning over. I think that rules out hydro locked.
i would look towards a shorted battery as a potential, and get the stored code out of the ecu.
 
Could also be your idle air controller valve (IAC). Two beeps every minute. That's one of the issues for that code. The not turning over, I have no clue. Maybe loose wiring somewhere
 
I have located the lists of SC Alarm and Fault Codes. There are only 36 items that give off the 2-beeps/min. I can eliminate a lot of it due to normal oil pressure and water temps. One thing I did neglect to mention above...When it would not turn over nor make a peep, and then it did and started...I had messed with the gear shift thinking maybe it was not all of the way in neutral. This could point to the TPS(throttle position sensor). Who knows at this point...To bad SC doesn't give you the number of the fault. All it does is flash "AL" in the upper right hand corner and say "Check Engine" every minute.

My new bow rail is due in any day so we will let them hook up the computer and see what code is set as Paul advised. I will pull a plug or two today and check the oil, but I don't think it is hydro locked.

Thanks for the replies.

Bennett
 
I remember somebody (don't remeber who) tell me about a similar issue. It turned out to be that the computers are extremely sensitive to voltage. If the computer reads below a certain voltage it acts crazy. Maybe low voltage, engine ground could be loose.... also how come nobody seems to think that the engine temp dropping is not a symptom? Once my boat gets to 160 it will not leave the 159 to 161 range no matter at idle or wot. A dropping temp from 160 to 154 probably wouldn't alarm me but throw an alarm while it's doing it would make me think about it.
 
a bad IAC valve would not keep the engine from turning over.....that is the key symptom I would concentrate on at first....I would start looking for a loose battery cable or corroded ground....that is assuming the engine is not hydro locked from a water leak....

good luck....hopefully it is something simple...

cliff
 
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also you might want to check the condition of the batteries.....I am not certain but I believe on modern electrical systems if a battery charge gets too low it can stall the engine....that same low battery charge would not be strong enough to crank the engine....then as things cooled off in the ER maybe the charge was restored just enough to turn the engine over but not strong enough to actually start the engine....or if you have problem with the alternator that could cause the battery charge to deplete....

people often do not realize that heat kills more batteries every year than cold....as you said it was VERY hot this WE (we were out in it also) in the SE so the temp in the ER was probably higher than normal and may have been high enough to play havoc with a weak battery....the engine was likely running a little warmer than usual also since the water temp of the lake was around 92*.....that could have raised the ER temp also....

http://www.sundevilauto.com/about-u...ffected-by-the-heat-like-they-are-by-the-cold


just some thoughts....

cliff
 
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All batteries checked good today.

Hooked up the muffs. Turned key to on and got the normal single beep. Waited 5 seconds or so and turned the key to start. Starter engaged and she went to turning over. Almost caught, but got the 2-beeps and I stopped. Waited 2-3 mins and tried again. This time it "caught" but was stumbling, hunting, or whatever and was idling like crap. Shut down after 10 seconds or so. IAC muffler/filter was clean. All plugs/connections were tight and clean. Pulled a couple of spark plugs and they look new. Oil is clear and clean.

Going to try a new IAC valve tomorrow. If that's not it....to the shop we will go.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
All batteries checked good today.

Hooked up the muffs. Turned key to on and got the normal single beep. Waited 5 seconds or so and turned the key to start. Starter engaged and she went to turning over. Almost caught, but got the 2-beeps and I stopped. Waited 2-3 mins and tried again. This time it "caught" but was stumbling, hunting, or whatever and was idling like crap. Shut down after 10 seconds or so. IAC muffler/filter was clean. All plugs/connections were tight and clean. Pulled a couple of spark plugs and they look new. Oil is clear and clean.

Going to try a new IAC valve tomorrow. If that's not it....to the shop we will go.

Bennett
Click to expand...

did you try to start in neutral with the throttle advanced? If it starts that tells you it is the IAC.
 
wish2fish said:
did you try to start in neutral with the throttle advanced? If it starts that tells you it is the IAC.
Click to expand...

Plan to try that test tomorrow afternoon. If it in fact points more so at the IAC, headed to NAPA to buy one for a 2002 Ford Windstar. Funny GM used a Ford part.

Thanks,
Bennettp
 
Hey Bennett, wanted to give you a heads up. If you can wait a couple days for the IAC valve, Amazon has the hitachi part for $33.85 (half of what the local auto parts store wanted). The part number is ABV0006.

Good luck!
 
davidh82 said:
Hey Bennett, wanted to give you a heads up. If you can wait a couple days for the IAC valve, Amazon has the hitachi part for $33.85 (half of what the local auto parts store wanted). The part number is ABV0006.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up! The admiral has Prime with Amazon, so I just had her order 2 of them-1 for a spare. They were exactly 1/2 price of NAPA and 1/4 the cost of the Merc OEM part on eBay. Many thanks.

Bennett
 
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