Official 370 Sundancer thread

370Dancer said:

The parts only cost $319.34 and I have the manufacturer and part numbers if you would like them. I took the time to remove the old mechanical governor and get a new smaller belt installed before he got there. I took the mounting bracket off and let the shop have it for a couple days so they could rig a new system for the actuator and arm to the carb. Upon arriving at the boat, it only took the tech 90 minutes to wire it all up and adjust it to get a perfect 60hz from the engine. While working on it this week I will get some pics if you would like to see what it looks like.

Thanks
Bill

Very interested in the parts and source for this. I'm sure others would be as well.
Rig a new system for the carb throttle arm and choke solenoid? Not following.....

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Hello,
I took pictures this weekend and posted them here: http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/Thewolftc/library/Westerbeke
I also labeled each with part numbers for identification. We purchased them from Governors America Corporation.

I apologize for the confusion with my verbiage. The threaded rod is simply connected from the actuator to the carb. throttle.

This thing works amazingly well and you don't have to worry about a belt or annual maintenance with oil..

Have fun.

Looking to replace the entire stereo system on my 1995 370 DA. It's appears to be the original clarion tape player head unit with CD changer below it. That part is easy to understand. Curious if anyone knows where the amp or amps are located and how make speakers I should be looking for in the cabin and outside? I've noticed the four 6.5" round speakers outside and what appears to be a 12" sub outside at the helm. Haven't noticed any speakers inside, but I can hear them. Any advice in the upgrade?

TheWolfTC said:

Ok...looking for some feedback if possible.

I am asking about the fuel pick up tube on the starboard tank that feeds the generator.
1.Does anyone know if it is welded to the tank and non removable or will it come out after loosening the nut?
2. Is there a screen at the bottom of the pick up tube to filter out gunk OR is the screen located in the fuel line after the elbow in the actual hose at the fitting?

Me genny is being starved for gas and we have replaced the fuel separator and that helped a little but it has been suggested that my screen is clogged in the tank. So, I called a marine mechanic friend and thinks the pick up tube is welded and to be very careful with any "torquing" on the nut. He couldn't remember on my specific boat, but he thought they put the "filter" screen in line.

We have eliminated the prospect of water in the tank by checking/replacing all 3 separators off the starboard tank. Although there were plenty of particles in the filters, no water. The genny has had a complete overhaul short of the impeller which I am doing tomorrow. We changed out teh mechanical governor for an electric one and WOW, that is nice. She runs like a champ now!

So the issue is while at the dock we can run the genny without a problem and actually load it up so that both lines are running at 30 amps...IE Stove burners, water heater, both AC's and the microwave. Not that we will EVER need all of that, but my Genny mechanic wanted to load it up and see how it ran. Upon leaving the dock and cruising for a little while the genny can only seem to run 1 of the AC units and anything else bogs it down...the voltmeter will actually drop as low as 90 volts, then work its way back up after a few seconds. At the dock it does not do this. The general consensus is that it is trying to suck more fuel and can't get it fast enough, so the filters must be dirty or the pick up screen is clogged after 20 years. So my last resort is to check the fuel line feeding the unit.

So, I know that was long but we think we have narrowed it down to the remaining 2 items and if anyone has worked on their fuel pickups or fuel line, some advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
The wolf.

PS: The boat is for sale so I want to make sure everything is running 100% for the next owner!!

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So here have been my findings after a nice run through...
The low AC I was experiencing on the rear air condition unit was caused by the SMX2 not being calibrated properly. I never knew you had to do that!! It was a new control panel and apparently I didn't read the instructions very well (do we ever???). Once I accomplished that, everything started working well.

The voltage drop issue was because the front A/C was trying to kick on and the compressor "head" pressure was too high. It needs to sit idle for a few minutes before it tries to kick on because it will draw more amps than any of us would want. So the voltage drop would occur when it was trying to start but hadn't set long enough to relieve the pressure. If we allow the ac units to cool down for a few minutes under these circumstances it is better on them and the generator. I had a friend that is in the HVAC business take a look and make sure everything was good with the units as well.

There are not any screens on the pick up tubes or in the fuel lines...at least on my 1996 there aren't. We changed the water separator again, replaced the impeller and now life is good. I do suggest that if we need both AC's running on the genny that we have the front AC be running before the rear. The amp draw on the forward unit is higher on initial start up than the rear. Once they are running, everything is fine.

As always, I learned a lot and am thankful for the CSR feedback from everyone.

Now on to the next project.

Looking for Help. I am in the process of having a 1996 370da transported via a hydraulic trailer and am having a hard time finding the overall height. Powerboat guide is pretty vague on this boat for height. Does anyone have the overall height they can send me so I can make sure we will be okay when transporting? I am hoping the 96 and 97 lower arches are going to make this a lot easier. Thank you in advance!

dorrwalter said:

Looking for Help. I am in the process of having a 1996 370da transported via a hydraulic trailer and am having a hard time finding the overall height. Powerboat guide is pretty vague on this boat for height. Does anyone have the overall height they can send me so I can make sure we will be okay when transporting? I am hoping the 96 and 97 lower arches are going to make this a lot easier. Thank you in advance!

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Hi Dorr, I know of a boat that was hauled from Buffalo NY to northern Michigan without any issues! the radar will not have to come down. Mine has been hauled from our port all the way through downtown Traverse city without the radar dome being removed. You will have no problems on major roads with this vessel. I think mine is just shy of 11' from keel to radar dome...or pretty close to that. Hope that helps

I do suggest that if we need both AC's running on the genny that we have the front AC be running before the rear. The amp draw on the forward unit is higher on initial start up than the rear. Once they are running, everything is fine.

Careful with that advice. The Aft A/C breaker also supplies power to the raw water pump. Turning on and off at the control panel for the A/C is fine.
I usually turn the breakers on and off at the distribution panel.

dorrwalter said:

Looking for Help. I am in the process of having a 1996 370da transported via a hydraulic trailer and am having a hard time finding the overall height. Powerboat guide is pretty vague on this boat for height. Does anyone have the overall height they can send me so I can make sure we will be okay when transporting? I am hoping the 96 and 97 lower arches are going to make this a lot easier. Thank you in advance!

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Check 370sundancer.com; I've got a page there with the engineering drawings from Sea Ray that has all the measurements.

Gene

Careful with that advice. The Aft A/C breaker also supplies power to the raw water pump. Turning on and off at the control panel for the A/C is fine.
I usually turn the breakers on and off at the distribution panel.[/QUOTE]

I understand that. What I meant was that if they are both on, which is required to run the fwd air, maybe set the temp on the rear one to be higher so it isn't cycling before the fwd. air. That may have been a better way to say it.

Hi Bill. Yes, This does help. I was thinking it was around 11' (Found a spec sheet that is saying 11' 4") so this is good to hear. Didn't want to bother you while you were traveling. Thank you,

TN370 said:

Looking to replace the entire stereo system on my 1995 370 DA. It's appears to be the original clarion tape player head unit with CD changer below it. That part is easy to understand. Curious if anyone knows where the amp or amps are located and how make speakers I should be looking for in the cabin and outside? I've noticed the four 6.5" round speakers outside and what appears to be a 12" sub outside at the helm. Haven't noticed any speakers inside, but I can hear them. Any advice in the upgrade?

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I can tell you a lot about the stereo and wiring, assuming its the same as the 1998.
Let's start at the source. Obviously, technology has come a long way since 1995, so there are a lot of directions you can go. Searching through the modifications section, and searching for stereo in the 370 thread will give you an idea of the possibilities. If you are up for modifying the face wall where the old head, and CD changer sit, your options get even bigger. For now, let's assume not.
Just like buying the boat, you should think about your lifestyle, and how you listen to music in other places, such as home and in your car. If you are a hard core ITunes/Apple person, then you should think about extending your ecosystem to the boat, in terms of both audio and video. Yes I just said replace your head unit with an Apple TV, or something that plays well with Iphones. If you are an Android person, you know that you will be piecing together a system, and it's pretty easy to keep the audio separate from the video aspects with a couple of ChromeCast units.
You may be old school, in which you don't want your phone involved in making music. In that case, you would do well with either hanging on to the Clarion (still a good head, unless it's broken), and perhaps making use of an aux in to be fed from a dedicated Ipod, Mp3 player, or some other source. These days, you can get a Bluetooth adapter for anything that has a mini stereo jack for under 10.00. I just put one in a jeep, that you can unplug and put into the stereo on the boat. If you are invested in CDs and still use them, then hang onto your changer. the biggest thing that has changed is either you go the route of letting someone else pick your songs based on a mood or genre (think XM Radio, or FM radio), or you collect and organize music yourself (think ITunes and your own library). The mechanism to get it to you is greatly miniaturized, and for the most part, is streamed wirelessly.
Once you have figured out how you want to serve your music, the head unit becomes the conduit to feeding your amplifier(s).
Your existing Clarion system is probably like this:
The head unit has 4 channels (LR for front and Rear). Those built in amplifier outputs are used to drive the pair of speakers in the forward stateroom, and the pair in the salon. You are having a hard time seeing the speakers because they are built into the overhead sconces where the lights are in the salon, and in the forward bulkhead wall at the head of the master bed. Instead of plastic speaker covers, they are part of the trim, and the grille cloth is the same color as the trim. There is also a set of RCA jacks to feed an external amplifier, usually associated with the Rear fader. Sea Ray uses a pair of RCA cables from the back of the Clarion head, down the cabinet, and behind the curved part of the sofa. If you remove the seat of the sofa at the bow end, you will likely find a built in vacuum cleaner bolted to the floor. If you shine a flashlight towards the bulkhead and up a little, you will see a cavity in the cabinetry, where you will also see a Clarion amplifier. It is either a 5 channel (4 full range and 1 sub) or a 4 channel amp. The RCA signal is split so that it goes to both sections of the amplifier. One channel is used to drive the 12" sub in the helm, and the rest is used to drive the 4 each 6.5" speakers in the cockpit. There are switches on the amp to control bridging for the sub, and cutoff frequency so you don't try to push a cymbal through the sub, or a bass through the top speakers.
Now, I'll tell you what I did.
I decided to keep the wall intact (at least for now), so I limited myself on what to put in the spaces.
I replaced the Clarion head unit with a Boss Marine (Jensen) unit that had an Aux input, and built in CD player. I've used the CD player 3 times in 10 years.
I pulled the CD Changer, and built a faceplate that mounts from behind to house a couple of things. One is a Creative Labs Extacy, which is a multi input, surround decoder. 10 years ago, remember.
I also mounted the controls for a Logitech 5.1 Surround System, built for a multi-media PC. Put the sub under the settee, and the satellite speakers around the salon. $40 bucks at the time, and it will run you out of there watching a movie.
The Logitech is driven by either an optical input from a DVD player, Tv, or the onboard PC, or an Aux input, which is coming from a XM Receiver. That is fed to the aux input of the Boss head unit for those days where the game is on, and we have it playing in the cockpit as well as the salon.
To control sound to the zones, I determined that there were really 3 zones in this boat: Downstairs, Cockpit, and Transom
To facilitate that, I added another amplifier right next to the existing one behind the sofa. I wired the blue "power" control for each amplifier to rocker switches located in the space between the sofa and the sliding door to the master stateroom. This allows us to turn off the outside at night and still be able to whoop it up downstairs, or fade everything to the cockpit if someone is sleeping downstairs.
In the "garage", transom locker, I mounted 2 Bose indoor outdoor speakers that face out towards the stern. This gives us tunes while lounging in the water behind the boat at our favorite beach or sandbar, without blowing the whole place up (hear me children?!).
One of the reasons I picked that particular Boss/Jensen head unit was because you could daisy chain wired remotes to the system. One at the helm for obvious safety and convenience, and one in the transom locker for ultimate convenience. Only have to go up the ladder a step to adjust the system.
This has been in play now for 10 years, and still works great. I do not want to be my own DJ or program director, so I opt for XM, and Amazon music by mood.
I have recently added Chrome Cast Audio, but it doesn't play well with Iphone. I also have a Roku onboard, so I can always stream through the TV/optical to get there without tying up the phone.
And, we haven't even fired up the PC yet.........

Enjoy, and know that you will continue to change it over time. Biggest question is whether you want to personalize past Sea Ray stock cabinetry, or make what you get fit.
Finally, to get to the amps under the sofa, remove the curved part of the back. How? Easy. There are spaced phillip head screws behind the bolster going into the shelf along the back of the piece. Remove those, and pull it straight up. There are guide pins that help you put it back right. Same for the aft half of the sofa back should you ever need to get behind the Starboard wall cabinets.
Go to www.370sundancer.com and look for Beach House II under 1998. I think there's still some pics in there.
http://www.370sundancer.com/By Year/1998/Beach House/files/page214-1015-full.html

TN370 said:

Looking to replace the entire stereo system on my 1995 370 DA. It's appears to be the original clarion tape player head unit with CD changer below it. That part is easy to understand. Curious if anyone knows where the amp or amps are located and how make speakers I should be looking for in the cabin and outside? I've noticed the four 6.5" round speakers outside and what appears to be a 12" sub outside at the helm. Haven't noticed any speakers inside, but I can hear them. Any advice in the upgrade?

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I replaced the speakers a few years ago, but last winter i replaced the stock head stuff with the following.

Clarion M505 Bluetooth Receiver
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q3M0QC/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MW1 Wired Remote under dash
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q3M0QC/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

25 Foot extension for remote
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q3M0QC/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got a y splitter for the remote cable and could add another remote on arch or transom in the future if I want.

Bluetooth works fantastic and phone can be all the way on the transom without any signal problems. Better sound all around. Kept the original amp setup. You'll need to (or pay someone as i did) run the new remote cable as our cables are obsolete and don't even have adapters to make them work.

One word: Repower
Who else is thinking about it?

I'm on my 3rd set of long blocks (P.O.), and I've kept these girls running for 13 years on the last set.
All of the bolt on parts are original, and they are showing their age. I get 50 cented on every trip (hose clamp here, crimp connection there), which just turns into no fun for me or my guests on a hot summer day in the bilge.

I get the feeling Mercury Marine has started the Remanufacturing program just for me. We're getting dangerously close to a repower being 1/2 the value of the boat as is, but I've always subscribed to "old boat, new motor".

Thoughts?

370Dancer said:

One word: Repower
Who else is thinking about it?

I'm on my 3rd set of long blocks (P.O.), and I've kept these girls running for 13 years on the last set.
All of the bolt on parts are original, and they are showing their age. I get 50 cented on every trip (hose clamp here, crimp connection there), which just turns into no fun for me or my guests on a hot summer day in the bilge.

I get the feeling Mercury Marine has started the Remanufacturing program just for me. We're getting dangerously close to a repower being 1/2 the value of the boat as is, but I've always subscribed to "old boat, new motor".

Thoughts?

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I'm in my 4th season with 8.1s from Mercury Remanufacturing, what do you want to know?

John

xravenx said:

I'm in my 4th season with 8.1s from Mercury Remanufacturing, what do you want to know?

John

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First, are you comfortable talking about costs and what not in this public forum, or do you prefer PM?
Is the repower documented with pics/videos and notes, or did you just hand the keys and wallet to someone and have them do it all?
As the guy who started this 370 thread, it's only appropriate that you lead this thread too!

Here is my thread from a few years ago
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...showthread.php/55191-Repower-time-for-the-370

A friend of mine is a mechanic for Marine Max, he/they did the install and answered all my questions and explained everything. They stored my boat inside and did the job over the winter, I would stop in and check on things every once in a while. 30K for the complete job, another marina's estimate was also 30K. Love the boat and plan on keeping it for a long time, couldn't be happier with the outcome. Another member here is planning on or maybe already has repowered his 370, I do not recall his screen name but we exchanged numerous PMs.

Read the whole repower thread, thanks.
Did you do anything to the Westerbeke, or other items in the bilge while they were out? I'm thinking it might be time to refresh that unit as well. Our genny is always on when we are boating. Shaft seals? Rebuild the transmissions? Change your cutlass bearings?
Those are the things keeping me up at night.

Replaced the upper door track on our 95 370 a couple weeks ago. Ordered a replacement aluminum tracks and trucks online. On our boat the track is 48" long. The basic steps were:
1) Cut/remove the sealer around the panel that forms the door pocket in the cockpit.
2) Remove 4 screws at the bottom of the panel
3) Remove 4 screws at the top of the panel inside the cabin. They are accessible through the removable light/speaker cover over the galley.
4) Remove panel. Clean up dead stink bug carcasses inside.
5) Remove door from bottom track assembly and the trucks at the top.
6) Slide trucks out of old track and remove screws that hold the track in place.
7) Use the old track as a drill template to line up the screw holes. I just taped the two tracks together back to back.
8) Re-assemble in reverse order.

Wish I had done this a couple seasons ago. It's so nice to have a smooth operating door.

Jack

Ok, now I'm thinking what we need to do is move this discussion to a new "370" oriented thread, entitled "370 Sundancer Refit" thread, focusing on things you have done to refresh your 370 specifically, that others could do as well. That could grow into a list of projects for all of us, and the tribal knowledge captured will be invaluable to those who are contemplating the refits.
Or, does that defeat the purpose of this one, which is all things 370 DA?
Show of hands?

370Dancer said:

Ok, now I'm thinking what we need to do is move this discussion to a new "370" oriented thread, entitled "370 Sundancer Refit" thread, focusing on things you have done to refresh your 370 specifically, that others could do as well. That could grow into a list of projects for all of us, and the tribal knowledge captured will be invaluable to those who are contemplating the refits.
Or, does that defeat the purpose of this one, which is all things 370 DA?
Show of hands?

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Sure. I'd read and contribute. I have pics from new canvas, flatscreen system install, custom sunpads, Deck-adence on the swim platform (which I'll be redoing this fall/spring) and a killer stereo system.

Mark

This thread is already one of the most frequented on Club Sea Ray and there is a wealth of information here. I'd bet anything that our traffic is not just from 370 DA owners, but others looking to step up and maybe a few who are looking to move down a bit.

i'd keep things here and have our '95 to '99 370 owners have one place to go for info. I'll also admit to being a bit selfish, as I get many of my ideas to update 370sundancer.com from here. I know I haven't updated the site in a while, but with two main threads to follow, I'd have even more work!

Gene