Why are SR's so much higher priced than Bayliners?

I think you should purchase the new 2016 Bayliner with the glass floor. This way when you look down you can see last years model.
 
Bucit said:
I think you should purchase the new 2016 Bayliner with the glass floor. This way when you look down you can see last years model.
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no you didn't.......:smt043............
 
CliffA said:
no you didn't.......:smt043............
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He did..... and im dying laughing

I have nothing against any boat out there, to each there own, get out on the water and have fun. Even a guy in a little jon boat with a 5 hp motor is having a good time because hes out on the water.
 
well if discussing used boats, well the market dictates that price so apparently the consensus would be the SR is worth more
 
jeff80kz1000e2 said:
I have nothing against any boat out there, to each there own, get out on the water and have fun. Even a guy in a little jon boat with a 5 hp motor is having a good time because hes out on the water.
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Roger that. Have a great weekend everyone.
 
I'm not into your attitude at all El Capitan....very condescending even to people who are trying the best they can to give the most honest answer they can.
 
Oh yeah as for "lifetime structural hull warranty" .... are you serious?!?! Go buy a 3 million dollar Marlow or any other boat and see how far that statement gets you. About three to five years at best. I don't think you really know what you are talking about.
 
The OP finds the answers he is getting to be unsatisfactory because they lack specific information. That is a nearly impossible result to expect from us here for 2 reasons. To prove hull thickness and engineering specifics that dictate the cost differential requires either proprietary knowledge that is possessed inside Sea Ray, inside Bayliner or inside the BBG PD&E group. Either that or you have to saw a boat apart and microscopically examine the components and lay-up thickness. Good luck with that if you are shopping for a used $10,000 boat.

Have you even looked at a Bayliner and compared it to a similar Sea Ray? It doesn't sound like it. Bayliners are designed to hit specific entry level price points and to be produced in a
low skill requirement mass production environment. Sea Rays are not built to be sold to that market. Our dealer here on the Gulf Coast handles both brands and the mechanics here rig and test both brands as needed. They will run the Sea Rays anywhere in any conditions but they have to keep the Bayliners in protected areas away from water open water………wonder why? Because Bayliners are note built for those conditions.

I hope you get some answer from someone that helps you decide on your next boat…………….
 
Boy a bunch of folks took the bait here-I started, then deleted my post!:grin:
 
I didn't take the bait. Bayliner is garbage. I happily purchased an older searay rather than a newer Bayliner.
 
If you inspect and evaluate a Sea Ray and a Byliner and cannot see significant differences in the boats to justify the significant differences in price, you should buy the Bayliner. If I could not see the difference, there would be a Bayliner in my signature. I didn't pay the premium for the name, I paid it for the product.
 
Listen to Frank as always... Bottom line, If you plan on boating in open water or big bays be prepared to have a chiropractor on speed dial and lose a filling or two with a Bayliner. It's a tin can in big water. If you are boating on a lake (not the Great Lakes) a Bayliner in my opinion is the way to go, best bang for the buck; assuming you are not after the higher end fit and finish.
 
Just because they are owned by the same parent company doesn't mean they are built the same.

I had a friend sell his high quality lighting company to a larger company, it was a substantial deal for a small business. The larger company that bought him was in the same industry, but sold the their lighting at a lower cost with lesser quality. My friend's company was purchased to be the high end option for the very large consumer base of the larger company. The lights between the 2 companies may share wires... but the bulbs, reflectors and housings are completely different. They both produce light, but the better built light will last through more abuse, testing proves it.

Same thing with what you are asking here. The Bayliner is in production to reach a certain segment and demographic. The Sea Ray is another. Resale values tell you the story. People drive the market, not a yellow book. They determine what works better than others and what they are willing to pay creates the demand in the market, especially in the recreational world. A boat is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

You're not comparing apples to apples. If you can't tell the difference, then it doesn't matter. There's so much more in the boat than just the hull. If the Sea Ray is 15 years old and the Bayliner is 10 years old, ask yourself what's the difference in the motors and drives? Based on your line of questioning, you should go with the best maintained option of the 2 because you'll freak if you lose a motor or drive and have to pay for that. 5 years is a lot of wear and tear on interiors and gel coat. Sea Ray and Bayliner both suck at gel coating, so look for which is in the best shape. Might as well look at Reinell and Cobalt too.

The good thing about the Bayliner, you'll have plenty of open water to run it... everyone else steers clear. ;)
 
Funny I was wondering the opposite. How can Searay be so much less expensive than Cobalt, Fountain, Tiara, and even Boston Whaler who is also a Brunswick line. I believe they offer a quality product, reasonable pricing, large dealer network, and most importantly... great customer support! That is why they are the largest recreational boat builder in the world. Supply and demand.
 
Lots of wounded egos here replying. Very revealing about people here, almost as if this were a political issue. The discourse in many of your responses and insults says a lot about some in this community.

I obviously struck a nerve - albeit unintentionally. Some of you are snobs.

Boats I've owned include Boston Whaler,13ft Mako 17ft, 21ft, Formula 233, SR 242.

I am between boats now , I guess I'm therefore not good enough to post a question that apparently has challenged the intellectual capacity of some such that you've had no answer besides "...look at the cleats..."

I guess snobbery goes hand in hand w overpaying for a depreciating asset.

Enjoy your payments.
 
This thread needs mention of a portable gen on the platform, a pig, and being on plane in a no wake zone....
 
Did you even bother to read what some of us tried to tell you?

fwebster said:
The OP finds the answers he is getting to be unsatisfactory because they lack specific information. That is a nearly impossible result to expect from us here for 2 reasons. To prove hull thickness and engineering specifics that dictate the cost differential requires either proprietary knowledge that is possessed inside Sea Ray, inside Bayliner or inside the BBG PD&E group. Either that or you have to saw a boat apart and microscopically examine the components and lay-up thickness. Good luck with that if you are shopping for a used $10,000 boat.…………….
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You are on your high horse because you asked a question that only someone with proprietary information or destructive testing can answer specifically. I tried to help you understand the difficulty in getting the answer you desire, but you either ignored the post or have chosen to continue flogging CSR members with rhetoric. Do yourself and the rest of us a favor and either accept what you've been told or find another dead horse to beat.
 
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