Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Remove 3 nuts inside transom locker. 1 in the center and 1 on each side, behind the vertical boards (walls) on both sides. 4 screws to remove each wall (one has power and water hook-ups).
 
Bilge pump question:
Recently I had my boat pulled and bottom painted, the process took 3 weeks due to torrential rainfall. When I got the boat back I checked and expected to find some water in the bilge however I unexpectedly found my bilge pumps not to be working. Both topside and bilge breakers were tripped. The bilge breaker would reset but only for a few seconds. I have the standard 2- 1100 gph Rule non-autos and a single rule-a-matic. I am guessing one of them is seized or clogged??? The dash switch will come on with the temporary reset so I am planning to buy all new pumps and replace. Thoughts??
 
RPM's not the same during WOT

As I have stated here many times I just bought a 2005 280 searay with T4.3L MPI’s alpha one gen 2 counter rotating. there 245 hours on both engines. The question I have is when I get on plan my port engine pulls about 4500 RPM WOT and my starboard is around 4000 RPM. It gets up pretty easy. I cruiser at 29 mph @ 3650 rpm synced. WOT again my port engine runs 4700-4800 rpm but my starboard is at 4400-4500 rpm. I would think my rpm’s would be almost the same? It had new spark plugs put during the engine survey. The coolant temp is around 156 on both engines. Both props are stainless steel without any nicks. Like I said the boat run great cruising. I checked codes and have zero! My next thought is timing…. or a sensor..??

Thanks for the help!!
 
threejays said:
RPM's not the same during WOT

As I have stated here many times I just bought a 2005 280 searay with T4.3L MPI’s alpha one gen 2 counter rotating. there 245 hours on both engines. The question I have is when I get on plan my port engine pulls about 4500 RPM WOT and my starboard is around 4000 RPM. It gets up pretty easy. I cruiser at 29 mph @ 3650 rpm synced. WOT again my port engine runs 4700-4800 rpm but my starboard is at 4400-4500 rpm. I would think my rpm’s would be almost the same? It had new spark plugs put during the engine survey. The coolant temp is around 156 on both engines. Both props are stainless steel without any nicks. Like I said the boat run great cruising. I checked codes and have zero! My next thought is timing…. or a sensor..??

Thanks for the help!!
Click to expand...

Threejays,

The RPM should be pretty close, and the difference is probably one of the following: Throttle rigging, timing, plugs or wires, prop pitch (if different) or compression.

Also, your speed is low. I have the same setup (but no counter rotating props) and cruise at 30 mph at 3200, 2 or 3 people, half tanks. At 3650, I'm in the 38 to 40 mph range. Something needs checking.....
 
K Ruck said:
Remove 3 nuts inside transom locker. 1 in the center and 1 on each side, behind the vertical boards (walls) on both sides. 4 screws to remove each wall (one has power and water hook-ups).
Click to expand...

It's a ***** to get off, requires 2 people or need a vice grip on the nuts in the transom locker. When I put mine back in, I mounted the bolts with lock nuts and washers so they don't come off next time, but easily take the transom bolster off with three nuts from the cockpit side.
 
Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater

When i flip the control panel breaker for how water heater ...the ciricuit breaker flips.

I have water in the water tank? do i need to cut of all other circuits when I run hot water heater or do i need to hook hose from dock to boat?
 
Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater

i assume you are on shore power. The water heater will put a large load on your electric panel if you also running your air conditioning. Do you have your shore power connected to a 30 amp dock outlet. Some dock power boxes have both a 20 amp and 30 amp breaker. Make sure the 30 amp breaker is turned on and the 20 amp breaker is turned off. Try cutting all breakers off on your electric panel and turning on just the water heater. If it trips you probably have a bad heater element in your water heater.

Is is your engine raw water cooled or do you have SeaCore closed cooling?
 
Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater

Had same issue with breaker and water heater on 2004 280. Replaced element, thermostat & high temp sensor. Wire connectors were corroded, element a pain to replace, others easy. Solved problem.
 
Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater

K Ruck said:
Had same issue with breaker and water heater on 2004 280. Replaced element, thermostat & high temp sensor. Wire connectors were corroded, element a pain to replace, others easy. Solved problem.
Click to expand...

Did you have to remove the heater to change the element? And, if you did, why didn't you just change the whole thing out if you had any age on it? I've changed a few (not in my 280), but they do seem to rust over time and the 280 looks like a real hard one to change.
 
Seevee,

Thanks for the feeds back. How much trim do you use for your out-drives? I'm at 2 both sides,My props are 17 pitch three blend stainless steel. I'm still learning with this boat so I'm not a 100% sure on RPM to MPH. what I notice taking off I go WOT the port ramps up too 4700=4800 rpm starboard hangs around 4100 - 4300 rpm. once I'm on plan I back it down to 3400-3600 rpm.. other then the RPM's being off the boat runs fine. no codes, alarms etc. my first though was throttle cable out of adjustment since it just had new bellows, bearing and shift cable replaced. next on my list was checking plugs wires then last would be timing. Mercruiser sent me a wiring diagram so I could build a jumper to check timing. I CAN'T believe the timing could be off with only 240 hours. I did notice that starboard throttle is off set more them my 290. I was looking for a spec on what the off site should be?

Thanks for the help!
threejays
 
Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater

Seevee said:
Did you have to remove the heater to change the element? And, if you did, why didn't you just change the whole thing out if you had any age on it? I've changed a few (not in my 280), but they do seem to rust over time and the 280 looks like a real hard one to change.
Click to expand...


I dont think you you can easily remove the WH, it's very tight on dual engine models (5.0). The front of the WH had a corner bracket that held element in, had to remove it and part of metal case around tank to get to it. Not easy, but likely easier than replacing entire tank. And prob less expensive too.
 
threejays said:
Seevee,

Thanks for the feeds back. How much trim do you use for your out-drives? I'm at 2 both sides,My props are 17 pitch three blend stainless steel. I'm still learning with this boat so I'm not a 100% sure on RPM to MPH. what I notice taking off I go WOT the port ramps up too 4700=4800 rpm starboard hangs around 4100 - 4300 rpm. once I'm on plan I back it down to 3400-3600 rpm.. other then the RPM's being off the boat runs fine. no codes, alarms etc. my first though was throttle cable out of adjustment since it just had new bellows, bearing and shift cable replaced. next on my list was checking plugs wires then last would be timing. Mercruiser sent me a wiring diagram so I could build a jumper to check timing. I CAN'T believe the timing could be off with only 240 hours. I did notice that starboard throttle is off set more them my 290. I was looking for a spec on what the off site should be?

Thanks for the help!
threejays
Click to expand...

Three,

The 280 doesn't require much tilt... perhaps "one potato, two...." You can feel it. Too much it starts to porpoise.

Something for sure is wrong as you shouldn't have that much of and issue. And with 240 hours your timing could be WAY off... Heck, I'd check it annually.
 
Re: Official 280 Sundancer Thread - Hot water heater

K Ruck said:
I dont think you you can easily remove the WH, it's very tight on dual engine models (5.0). The front of the WH had a corner bracket that held element in, had to remove it and part of metal case around tank to get to it. Not easy, but likely easier than replacing entire tank. And prob less expensive too.
Click to expand...

Thanks, will keep that in mind with WH issues... it's only a matter of time when they need servicing or replacement. But, hot water is NICE.
 
Question on Oil pressure probe:

I've got an intermittent oil pressure indication and suspect it's the probe or wiring. Where is the probe located on the engine? Thx.
 
I found the problem, There was a spark plug wire unplug on starboard engine. RPM's the same now and the boat runs totally different :)

Thanks for you input Seevee !
 
threejays said:
I found the problem, There was a spark plug wire unplug on starboard engine. RPM's the same now and the boat runs totally different :)

Thanks for you input Seevee !
Click to expand...

Glad you found it.

With that in mind, I've thought it would be nice to have a complete engine monitor with probes on every cylinder, in which you'd spot that in a heartbeat, but not sure what's out there for marine engines. We use that stuff in aviation and I can spot a number of abnormalities in a heartbeat and have the temps for each cylinder.
 
Yeah I agree, It sets zero codes and you could not tell it the engine was missing. I'm changing the engine oil and that spark plug today. This is really on the engine Surveyor! He did the compression test and replaced the plugs. I notice the rpms during the seatrail and he said it was normal and trimming the outdrive would fix it! Needless to say I will be writing a letter to the BBB..
 
threejays said:
Yeah I agree, It sets zero codes and you could not tell it the engine was missing. I'm changing the engine oil and that spark plug today. This is really on the engine Surveyor! He did the compression test and replaced the plugs. I notice the rpms during the seatrail and he said it was normal and trimming the outdrive would fix it! Needless to say I will be writing a letter to the BBB..
Click to expand...

Sorry you got a lousy surveyor. My experience with them have been poor, too. They know a little bit about a lot, but are not experts. I could argue to hire an expert and inspect the part of the boat that they are expert in... a good electrical guy, good engine guy and a general mechanic that knows that particular boat.

I've seen surveyors do a survey on a boat that they've never seen before and miss a bunch of major things that the boat had a reputation for!

Unfortunately the BBB will do nothing, they are a corrupt as our government is.
 
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