Moving up to a 48 DA helpful tips/what to look for

perryk123

Member
Nov 29, 2013
42
Little Rock AR
Boat Info
2004 Sea Ray 390 Sundancer
Engines
T/ 8.1 496 370 HP Vdrives
Hey guys..... Well here we are only 2 years after I bought a '04 390 DA, which I remember saying would be the last upgrade, itching once again... I don't think I would be gaining much upgrading to the 420/44 and have decided to look at the 48. Here are a few things we are considering.

Probably 05-07 year model with V-Drives.

I loved the Navy hull and would prefer it again, as we keep her in a freshwater covered slip with minimal exposure to the elements. Might even consider a Black one.

The one option for me would have to be the platform, and for the admiral the washer/dryer (so we don't look like gypsies hauling our dirty laundry down the dock).

I am worried about the diesels as far as what to look for. I realize a well maintained higher hour boat might be mechanically more sound that a low hour neglected one. Any pointers? Anything I should run from? As far as service what should I be looking for? Any estimate on what maintenance would cost on a near 10 year old boat?
 
Previous boat (340da) had a black hull.

Current has a blue hull.

Yes, more care and washing required - but I really like the blue and black hull's over white.

Mark
 
I like the looks of the black and blue hulls, and the grey ones too. But the "more care and washing required" part is what would ever keep me from buying one. Every one I've seen out here (relatively clean, fresh water) has a lot of water spots on the hull. At least on the grey and the white hulls those don't show up.
 
I like colored hulls. My previous boat was black. My current boat is white. With that said, there's nothing like the reflection of the water on freshly waxed white hull. The one thing I'll say is look at the condition of the hull color when picking one out. Some owners don't keep up with washing and waxing and the colored hulls can really fade. This is more from lack of maintenance.

While I'm probably a couple of seasons from moving up, here are a few things I look for when when I look at diesel boats:
-Dual Racor fuel filters so you can make a change on the fly if needed
-Oil change system (which can be on a gas boat as well)
-How many hours? I'm wearing of boats with too few hours.
-If available ask for maintenance logs
 
Worry less about the hours than the maintenance history. A really high hour boat that is well maintained is better than low hours with no maintenance.

Besides the "regular" oil changes, belts and impellers diesels used in saltwater need service done to the aftercoolers every 2-3 years and heat exchangers every 3-5 years at a minimum. Not sure of the freshwater used boats, but I still think the services are recommended just longer periods between.

Costs vary wildly depending on who and how the services are done. Parts are cheap (mainly gaskets) but depending on how its cleaned and the labor rates I have heard as low as a few hundred as a DIY to as much as $5,000 to do all the raw water side on both engines by an expensive shop. If anything is corroded beyond repair you can start adding $1,500 plus per replacement part.
 
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/74496-Need-advice-input-on-48-Sundancer

Check this one out. If it were me, I'd go 05-06 due to the wood veneers in the cabin clouding on later years. Cherry was the trim susceptible. Other than that, there were not many updates except for the digital throttle controls. I think the 48DA is a fantastic example of an all around boat. Read the thread I linked and hit up the owners that commented in that thread. I would like to move into a 48DA in the future.
 
Before you buy go to boatdiesel.com to do a little research on the motors and genny its got to get some insight on what the maintenance issues might be you can pickup some good info there before you put your cash down get a good diesel guy to do your survey.
 
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/74496-Need-advice-input-on-48-Sundancer

Check this one out. If it were me, I'd go 05-06 due to the wood veneers in the cabin clouding on later years. Cherry was the trim susceptible. Other than that, there were not many updates except for the digital throttle controls. I think the 48DA is a fantastic example of an all around boat. Read the thread I linked and hit up the owners that commented in that thread. I would like to move into a 48DA in the future.

I have heard and read about the veneer issues. It looks like all 05-06 have a matte/satin finish wood covering VS the 07+ that are high gloss. The boats look relatively the same with the exception of color choices. The DTS does scare me. I am used to the dual shifters and prefer the mechanical shift, plus I like how the duals compliment the wheelhouse. I have also heard that there were several issues in 07 with plumbing hoses dry rotting/deteriorating and were a huge expense to correct/replace.
 
I like the looks of the black and blue hulls, and the grey ones too. But the "more care and washing required" part is what would ever keep me from buying one. Every one I've seen out here (relatively clean, fresh water) has a lot of water spots on the hull. At least on the grey and the white hulls those don't show up.

And here is the thing. Boat sitting in the marina - not moving. Perfectly clean hull, shining looking good, then a thunderboomer comes through. The raindrops hitting the water will splash salt water up on the hull. Rain cloud passes, now you have a spotty, salt water hull. On a white hull, wont show. On a blue or black - yeah - if you care about those things it shows.

I know this - and still prefer the colored hull. Willing to spend the money for the crew to show up and wash it down to the stripe, whether I am there or not.

The Blue and the Black are awesome - but you have to sign up for the maintenance. If you don't, its a train wreck.

Mark
 
I have heard and read about the veneer issues. It looks like all 05-06 have a matte/satin finish wood covering VS the 07+ that are high gloss. The boats look relatively the same with the exception of color choices. The DTS does scare me. I am used to the dual shifters and prefer the mechanical shift, plus I like how the duals compliment the wheelhouse. I have also heard that there were several issues in 07 with plumbing hoses dry rotting/deteriorating and were a huge expense to correct/replace.

Perry, i looked at probably 15 48da's from FLorida up the east coast. the 07 and 08 models definitely had issues with the veneer on the curved valances peeling. Ive never seen any of the cabinet doors or flat surfaces peeling. My 2007 48 da was a light use boat in the North east and was indoor stored in the winter. We do have a some of peeling but not bad at all. In my opinion the pealing is because they used to thick of a veneer on the curve surfaces and the glue let loose. Searay gave me the manufacturer of the veneer and it is available (at a hefty cost). But honestly this is nothing that a wood craftsmen cant handle. I'll try to send some pictures.
The second issue i have seen, not specific to any model year, is milked solid wood doors. Some have been terrible and others with certain areas. I am sure that the doors could be stripped and refinished. My boat does not have this.
That said, i wouldnt shy away from a boat if you see this. Most important is the mechanical, maintenance on the motors and records. Cover yourself with a contingent budget to repair the interior if you find a good boat.
 
I looked at many 2007-2010 before buying one and there are a few issues and things to look for.
- Cabinets (high gloss) on the 2007 and 2008 delaminating, was told by multiple sources it is due to the humidity when it was applied. So some boats have it and some don't. Very expensive to fix.
- Cabin doors fogging or becoming milky, again some have it and some don't (all years).
- Hoses with dry rot in engine room, especially head hoses. Very common on 2006 and 2007.
- Oil leak at crankshaft seal.
- Turbos's leaking exhaust at the wastegate damper linkage.
- Look around bell housing for rubber dampers dusting where engine and transmission meet. Saw it a few times and it's an expensive fix.
- Little stuff like fresh water pump will need upgrade, fridge door will be dented from opening too far and hitting control panel latch, cockpit cushion torn because owner stands on it to put up canvas and boats before 2008 with Sea Vision underwater lights will need upgrades.

All that being said after looking for awhile and the help from one of the CSR Sea Ray friends bought a 2008 with DTS Controls, newer style Smartcraft and it's the nicest boat I have ever owned. Had a 2007 44 before this boat and the 48 is a significant step up in systems, comfort and enjoyment.
Good luck!
 
I looked at many 2007-2010 before buying one and there are a few issues and things to look for.
- Cabinets (high gloss) on the 2007 and 2008 delaminating, was told by multiple sources it is due to the humidity when it was applied. So some boats have it and some don't. Very expensive to fix.
- Cabin doors fogging or becoming milky, again some have it and some don't (all years).
- Hoses with dry rot in engine room, especially head hoses. Very common on 2006 and 2007.
- Oil leak at crankshaft seal.
- Turbos's leaking exhaust at the wastegate damper linkage.
- Look around bell housing for rubber dampers dusting where engine and transmission meet. Saw it a few times and it's an expensive fix.
- Little stuff like fresh water pump will need upgrade, fridge door will be dented from opening too far and hitting control panel latch, cockpit cushion torn because owner stands on it to put up canvas and boats before 2008 with Sea Vision underwater lights will need upgrades.

All that being said after looking for awhile and the help from one of the CSR Sea Ray friends bought a 2008 with DTS Controls, newer style Smartcraft and it's the nicest boat I have ever owned. Had a 2007 44 before this boat and the 48 is a significant step up in systems, comfort and enjoyment.
Good luck!

Your exactly right! I have an 07 and replaced the sanitation hoses, my cabinets are ok, I do have exhaust leaks at the wastegate and had to replace both transmission couplers when I noticed rubber particles in the engine room. Overall its a great and I have no intenions on upgrading.
 
I looked at many 2007-2010 before buying one and there are a few issues and things to look for.
- Cabinets (high gloss) on the 2007 and 2008 delaminating, was told by multiple sources it is due to the humidity when it was applied. So some boats have it and some don't. Very expensive to fix.
- Cabin doors fogging or becoming milky, again some have it and some don't (all years).
- Hoses with dry rot in engine room, especially head hoses. Very common on 2006 and 2007.
- Oil leak at crankshaft seal.
- Turbos's leaking exhaust at the wastegate damper linkage.
- Look around bell housing for rubber dampers dusting where engine and transmission meet. Saw it a few times and it's an expensive fix.
- Little stuff like fresh water pump will need upgrade, fridge door will be dented from opening too far and hitting control panel latch, cockpit cushion torn because owner stands on it to put up canvas and boats before 2008 with Sea Vision underwater lights will need upgrades.

All that being said after looking for awhile and the help from one of the CSR Sea Ray friends bought a 2008 with DTS Controls, newer style Smartcraft and it's the nicest boat I have ever owned. Had a 2007 44 before this boat and the 48 is a significant step up in systems, comfort and enjoyment.
Good luck!

THis is all spot on!
 
I looked at many 2007-2010 before buying one and there are a few issues and things to look for.
- Cabinets (high gloss) on the 2007 and 2008 delaminating, was told by multiple sources it is due to the humidity when it was applied. So some boats have it and some don't. Very expensive to fix.
- Cabin doors fogging or becoming milky, again some have it and some don't (all years).
- Hoses with dry rot in engine room, especially head hoses. Very common on 2006 and 2007.
- Oil leak at crankshaft seal.
- Turbos's leaking exhaust at the wastegate damper linkage.
- Look around bell housing for rubber dampers dusting where engine and transmission meet. Saw it a few times and it's an expensive fix.
- Little stuff like fresh water pump will need upgrade, fridge door will be dented from opening too far and hitting control panel latch, cockpit cushion torn because owner stands on it to put up canvas and boats before 2008 with Sea Vision underwater lights will need upgrades.

All that being said after looking for awhile and the help from one of the CSR Sea Ray friends bought a 2008 with DTS Controls, newer style Smartcraft and it's the nicest boat I have ever owned. Had a 2007 44 before this boat and the 48 is a significant step up in systems, comfort and enjoyment.
Good luck!

I am leaning to the 06 more and more. I knew of the veneer issue but more so the plumbing issue seams like a large and costly repair. The doors on a few I have looked at were milky but that's and easy repair.

The engines do scare me as I'm not familiar with diesels nor do we have anyone in the state that is capable of working on them. The water pumps, fluids, filters etc I'm capable of doing. The heat exchanger and after cooler also don't seam like a very hard to do but for sure a learning experience.

what causes the coupler/damper issue?

crank seal- is that why several boats have had oil absorb mats under the engines? Is it the rear or front

What about injectors and turbos? Any trouble?

any good bad or ugly on the Genny. Boat I'm leaning towards has 2000+ hrs
 
The engines do scare me as I'm not familiar with diesels nor do we have anyone in the state that is capable of working on them. The water pumps, fluids, filters etc I'm capable of doing. The heat exchanger and after cooler also don't seam like a very hard to do but for sure a learning experience.
You'll need someone to do your valve lash adjustment somewhere around 1000 hours. Mine were done at about 850 and they were very close to spec. Good piece of mind. The after coolers are best left to a professional, but you can do them. The starboard side may kill you because of lack of access. Other than that don't be afraid of diesels. If you get a good one, and the QSC-540 is a good one, that is well maintained, they just go and go.


crank seal- is that why several boats have had oil absorb mats under the engines? Is it the rear or front
Perhaps, but mine will blow a tiny bit of oil by the dip stick. And if you don't have that dip stick click in all the way, it will blow right out and make a mess of your bilge.

What about injectors and turbos? Any trouble?
The injectors are reliable, IF your fuel is clean. That's a key essential to diesels. You have to tend to your fuel and filters. See Frank W's diesel fuel conditioning program.

any good bad or ugly on the Genny. Boat I'm leaning towards has 2000+ hrs
My Onan Genny is also close to 2000+ hours and it just runs and runs. It doesn't burn any oil and after an oil change, it takes a lot of hours to turn the oil black. You have to change oil, the impeller, the fuel filters, make sure the air intake hose is in good condition, the grounding strap is good, it has coolant, and it just runs without a hiccup.
 
Don't think twice about diesels - best option you could want on a boat. My opinion - anything over 35'/36' needs diesels (just can't get the power out of gassers) and if you cruise, you'll love the range/ economy. Personally, I'd stay with straight shaft boats over pods. Less maintenance, less electronics to go bad. Having had 2 pod boats (not SR's), I much prefer the straight shafts with a thruster. Good luck!
 
Going to sea trail and need some engine specs. Ie: engine temp, water psi, oil temp, oil psi, wot, fuel burn, speed etc. Would like to know the real numbers from those of you familiar with this boat and engine package. Also will do haul out for bottom inspection and want to verify the boat has the correct props. What size should they be?
 
Going to sea trail and need some engine specs. Ie: engine temp, water psi, oil temp, oil psi, wot, fuel burn, speed etc. Would like to know the real numbers from those of you familiar with this boat and engine package. Also will do haul out for bottom inspection and want to verify the boat has the correct props. What size should they be?


Props - look at RPM and speed. at 80% load, my boat is running at 2250-2300 RPM and going 23-24 knots and burning 21 GPH per engine. If you are hitting those numbers, your props are good.

WOT is 2600 RPM - NO TABS. 29-30 Knots You wont hit it with tabs down.

Water temp is 172-174 degrees at cruise, 160-168 at idle to no wake speeds.

Water PSI is not measured on this engine.
Oil PSI is 50-60 at idle, not sure at speed

That's all I've got.

There will be a 20-30 degree difference on your gear temp. That's normal.

Ask if the prior owner did oil analysis on oil changes.
 
I am waiting to get a copy from Cummins of what was completed. I was told Heat Exchangers, Aftercoolers, Impellers, Oils & Filters were all recommended service that were completed 2 hrs ago. What should I look for if there is oil analysis?

The boat looks and smells new, the engine room is super clean and there is no signs of neglect anywhere. Current owner purchased the boat new and has always had Cummins do services (even oil & filter changes).

I will keep you posted. Might have a few more questions.
 
I am waiting to get a copy from Cummins of what was completed. I was told Heat Exchangers, Aftercoolers, Impellers, Oils & Filters were all recommended service that were completed 2 hrs ago. What should I look for if there is oil analysis?

The boat looks and smells new, the engine room is super clean and there is no signs of neglect anywhere. Current owner purchased the boat new and has always had Cummins do services (even oil & filter changes).

I will keep you posted. Might have a few more questions.

The oil analysis will give expected ranges for all metals and other substances measured. You don't want to exceed the normal range for wear items like iron, aluminum, and copper. You don't want unusually high sodium which could indicate salt water intrusion. There should be no trace of antifreeze in the oil. There should not be diesel dilution of the oil. You can have an oil analysis done if it hasn't.
 

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