Official 330 Express Cruiser / 340 Amberjack 1997-2003 Thread

Me likeyyyy... fridge looks very good. Nice install. As for your leds did u change just bulbs or the entire fixture?

Just the bulbs. Everything came from superbrightleds.com. I was able to match all of the interior and deck lights pretty easily.

--Mike
 
Ok well I went home to my parents house yesturday and got to relax on the hammock next to the pool with a cold beverage in my hand and my brain started "thinking" (scary thing sometimes) but I was thinking man wouldn't it be nice to have this hammock on the boat. So I started to think about how. Now here is what I came up with. I want to build some kind of stainless stanchions or "booms" if u will that u can put into the rod holders. Of coarse I will reinforce the area under the rod holders to support the weight maybe with 3/4 marine ply covered in some kind of waterproofing and heavy duty stainless through bolts and washers. I want these stanchions to extend over the back of the boat much like the ones that people use for lifting there dingy. Now these stanchions will have 3 purposes which justifies my hammock. Purpose one. A dingy lift , 2 it will hold my hammock when the dingy is off and 3 if I can make the bends right I would be able to flip the stanchions to face forward hang a white sheet or some kind of screen for a projector and have a dingy drive up movie theatre. Session far fetched but if u think about it it's really not. Just a couple pieces of metal bent up and adjusted. I will make everything collapsible so I can stow it when not in use. Can anybody picture this on there 330 ec or 340 aj? I always need to have a project and this is right up my alley so any thoughts comments ideas you have please share. Good and bad are welcome. But how nice would it be to have a hammock hanging off the back of your boat over the water to take a nice nap in!
 
You could try sailboat dinghy davits. They are crane like and swing in when not in use. Our transoms are more than strong enough to handle the weight of the dinghy or a person in a hammock. Would make bringing the dinghy in easier as well. 5316252.jpg
 
That is very close to what I'm looking to do.except I don't want to drill any holes or mount any new hardware. I'm going to make something that would slip into the rod holders.
 
That is very close to what I'm looking to do.except I don't want to drill any holes or mount any new hardware. I'm going to make something that would slip into the rod holders.

Don't think that will hold the weight. The ratcheting on the gunnel will break the glass there. I guess if you removed the rod holder and made it so the tube you are using went all the way to the deck and then slipped into a bracket, almost like a deck rail holder bracket, then you would have enough strength without damaging the gunnel. The rod holders themselves will not be enough in my opinion.

--Mike
 
Don't think that will hold the weight. The ratcheting on the gunnel will break the glass there. I guess if you removed the rod holder and made it so the tube you are using went all the way to the deck and then slipped into a bracket, almost like a deck rail holder bracket, then you would have enough strength without damaging the gunnel. The rod holders themselves will not be enough in my opinion.

--Mike

U calling me fat!:smt089 gotta try to figure out a way to reinforce the gunnels. Maybe add 2 "rodhlders" mounts that look like rod holders on the transom in a much stronger location.. that defeats my don't want to drill anymore holes idea tho.
 
U calling me fat!:smt089 gotta try to figure out a way to reinforce the gunnels. Maybe add 2 "rodhlders" mounts that look like rod holders on the transom in a much stronger location.. that defeats my don't want to drill anymore holes idea tho.

LOL. Try removing the plastic part of the rod holder and slipping a tube through that to the deck. The only drilling would be 4 screws for the end of the tube and those would be under the gunnel on the deck. Easy to hide later if needed. I think reinforcing the gunnel would be time consuming and might not work out because you still have the issue of the end of the tube ratcheting on the gunnel, something has to give. This is the part I think you should try attaching to the deck that would secure the end of the tube for the rig after it passes through the rod holder.

s-l1000.jpg
 
I do like the idea! Gotta get the graph paper pencil and tape measure out and start drawing up ideas! All this for a damn hammock lol
 
On my boat the drain in floor of the head is clogged, how do I get it unclogged. I don't see anyway to get the underneath the drain the take it off clean it out. Perhaps take the stairs out?

Has anyone else solved this problem?
 
On my boat the drain in floor of the head is clogged, how do I get it unclogged. I don't see anyway to get the underneath the drain the take it off clean it out. Perhaps take the stairs out?

Has anyone else solved this problem?

Happened to me a couple times. Step one mini plunger. Step 2 go into bildge. The sump pump should be dead center of boat under the step for the engine room hatch. Take the hose off that's labeled shower drain. Use shop vac to try and suck out any hair or whatever is in there. Step 3 make a hook end on a metal hanger and fish up the hose you removed then pull out whatever is in there. It may not be the hose thats cloged pull the cover off the sump pump box and clean the filter and move the float switch to make sure the pump is working and make sure the spiny thing on the bottom of the bilge pump inside the sump box has nothing wrapped around it
 
Last edited:
So I got it pretty much all on and it looks great. There are 2 problem areas. #1 The connection from the front bimini to the radar arch is extremely tight and it can't get one side zipped. There is almost 3" of space between the zippers and that is with it pulled real tight. It fits from the center of the arch out a few feet both ways, but when you get to the corners, that is where it doesn't mate up. #2 is the aforementioned rear aft curtain tail. It is about 3-4" too long. I am going to have a local canvas guy come out and fold the edge over and put a new seam in it.

Overall I'm very happy. It's not 100% but I didn't assume it would be and I saved ~$4k over a custom set done locally.
 
Hey everyone. I am talking with someone locally about trading him my 95 sea ray sundancer 250 for his 93 sea ray 330 EC. 1. Is that a smart option. 2. what would be some of the major things that i need to inspect on the vessel? 3. he just recently rebuilt one of the motors due to water in the motor, so he had the bad motor rebuilt and replaced the risers on the motor as well as the risers on the good motor and also replaced the ourdrive housing because of a leak. Just looking for a little bit of guidance here and some of the main issues with these boats. thanks
 
So I got it pretty much all on and it looks great. There are 2 problem areas. #1 The connection from the front bimini to the radar arch is extremely tight and it can't get one side zipped. There is almost 3" of space between the zippers and that is with it pulled real tight. It fits from the center of the arch out a few feet both ways, but when you get to the corners, that is where it doesn't mate up. #2 is the aforementioned rear aft curtain tail. It is about 3-4" too long. I am going to have a local canvas guy come out and fold the edge over and put a new seam in it.

Overall I'm very happy. It's not 100% but I didn't assume it would be and I saved ~$4k over a custom set done locally.

The front Bimini issue was not an issue for me but did u try to release the poles, zip up then try to reinstall the poles? As for the aft curtain that was the issue I was talking about. I just moved the snaps to under the rub rail. But glad everything worked out for the most part. Question. On the rear Bimini cover (top canvass from arch to pole) does that back horizontal rail support have a dip in the middle? I've always tried to figure out if mine was bent or suppose to be like that.
 
The front Bimini issue was not an issue for me but did u try to release the poles, zip up then try to reinstall the poles? As for the aft curtain that was the issue I was talking about. I just moved the snaps to under the rub rail. But glad everything worked out for the most part. Question. On the rear Bimini cover (top canvass from arch to pole) does that back horizontal rail support have a dip in the middle? I've always tried to figure out if mine was bent or suppose to be like that.

Yeah I tried all of that. It actually looks like the zipper was mis-sewed. You an can see that it is not in straight line. As for the rear bimini (aft shade), no, mine does not have a dip in it, it is straight across.

Public Service Announcment: We had a friend end up going to the ER and getting 9 stitches from getting cut on our boat. She was stepping down from the walk-around to down in the cockpit. When she stepped on the step and lifted her foot up to take the next step, her heel/achilles area got badly cut on the vertical edge above the step. I would highly recommend putting a rubber trim piece there. Does anyone know where I can get that rubber trim that is on the step? I would like to be able to match it.
 
Yeah I tried all of that. It actually looks like the zipper was mis-sewed. You an can see that it is not in straight line. As for the rear bimini (aft shade), no, mine does not have a dip in it, it is straight across.

Public Service Announcment: We had a friend end up going to the ER and getting 9 stitches from getting cut on our boat. She was stepping down from the walk-around to down in the cockpit. When she stepped on the step and lifted her foot up to take the next step, her heel/achilles area got badly cut on the vertical edge above the step. I would highly recommend putting a rubber trim piece there. Does anyone know where I can get that rubber trim that is on the step? I would like to be able to match it.

I did that before! Only my foor wedged in and didn't move so I went on my face bending my leg in ways it should not have bent! Back of heel injuries hurt veryvery much. also got my big toe stuck in the cabin sliding door track getting off the bed. Also went down on my face but that one gets even better. My gf was getting water out of the floor locker so I ended up in there and she proceeded to laugh at me and put the cover on.
 
First of all let me say this model has my attention. I've been thinking about moving up from my 94 300 Sundancer. I have twin 5.7 350/260 alpha Gen II I/O's and really want to go to inboards. I have to run the boat at 3700 to keep from squatting (even with larger tabs) Most of the models I see have 7.4's, but have stumbled on to a few with 8.1's. Would you guys mind sharing what you cruise at (RPM and speed) as well as GPH. I would think the 8.1's push the boat pretty good. Thanks in advance Chris
 
Yeah I tried all of that. It actually looks like the zipper was mis-sewed. You an can see that it is not in straight line. As for the rear bimini (aft shade), no, mine does not have a dip in it, it is straight across.

Public Service Announcment: We had a friend end up going to the ER and getting 9 stitches from getting cut on our boat. She was stepping down from the walk-around to down in the cockpit. When she stepped on the step and lifted her foot up to take the next step, her heel/achilles area got badly cut on the vertical edge above the step. I would highly recommend putting a rubber trim piece there. Does anyone know where I can get that rubber trim that is on the step? I would like to be able to match it.

My wife did the same thing. Easy fix and since I did it we have not had an issue and it looks good. I did all of the exposed edge in the cockpit. Use this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221429671296?item=221429671296&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

edging.jpg
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
113,095
Messages
1,425,837
Members
61,017
Latest member
IslandGirls1020
Back
Top