Official 330 Express Cruiser / 340 Amberjack 1997-2003 Thread

GrimmSpeed said:
Basically my running setup right now is eisinglass on, side curtain eisinglass on, rear arch side canvas curtains on. So basically everything up except for the rear aft curtain.

I'm amazed this era of boat doesn't have Co2 detectors. I purchased a Xintex yesterday and will need to run the wiring since there was no CO2 to begin with. Have any of you guys run wiring for a new Co2? If so, where did you place it and where did you pull power from?
Click to expand...

My boat has 2. One in the galley on the wall for the head. One in the V-Birth on the wall to the galley.
 
joeyleggz said:
thanks Jim, if you can do you have a pic of your set up or tell me where you plumbed them?
Click to expand...

I can get a pic for you, but I didn't install them - they were original equipment (or at least that's what I assumed). I'll take a closer look next time I'm at the boat.
 
Jimmy Buoy said:
I can get a pic for you, but I didn't install them - they were original equipment (or at least that's what I assumed). I'll take a closer look next time I'm at the boat.
Click to expand...

ok thanks Jim
 
It's alot easier and safer (in my opinion) to buy battery operated with a digital readout of ppm. Worst case scenario breaker trips battery dies no power going to panel and genny still running. Power supply to detectors is cut so they don't work. Your sleeping cabin fills with co and u have no warning. Battery powered just use double sided tape and walk away. Unless you're going to install a genny shut down function that's the route I would go and did go
 
GrimmSpeed said:
Two questions for you guys:

Where is the stereo amp located?

Has anyone replaced the v-berth port hole windows with ones that open? If so, where did you get them?
Click to expand...

The stereo amp is hidden behind the wall next to the stereo. You need to remove the stereo and the backpanel that holds it in place. Reach around to the left side and you will feel the amp screwed into the back of the wall. I haven't changed out the V-berth port holes and I do not think that is a good idea. If you run in any kind of seas it would not take much direct water pressure from a wave to force in moisture. I would leave them as they are, just my .02

--Mike
 
In regards to exhaust fumes. We came home yesterday in a downpour and left the aft curtain up for the ride but still were getting fumes. Because of the temp we could see the exhaust fumes coming in the cutouts in the transom where you run the dock lines. We stuffed some towels in there and it seemed to help.

On the 340 has anyone figured out how to make the backrest on the cabin table removable? With them in place only kids can really sleep there, about 5'3" to lay out when made into a bed.
 
Last edited:
Is the exhaust fume issue typical of the EC? I went out the other day on a 340 SD and we had no fumes problems even running with the wind.
 
majoma said:
Is the exhaust fume issue typical of the EC? I went out the other day on a 340 SD and we had no fumes problems even running with the wind.
Click to expand...

I have yet to have an issue with it. It may be do to how much canvas you leave on, how you are vented or even where in the country you live. We always run with the full front canvas, but have the vent window or "U" Eisenglass open, but even when we don't I do not have an issue. That being said, we have never run with the rear curtain up, even in the rain so maybe that is an issue. The only time I have ever smelled exhaust was when we were docking or departing and the wind was blowing into the cockpit area. Again, I might just be lucky.

--Mike

--Mike
 
Has anyone added a subwoofer to their EC/AJ? I swapped out the stock head unit for the Clarion M505 and also swapped out the stock amp for a JL 5 channel today. Next on the list is to install my JL 10" sub. I'm a bit perplexed as to where I should mount it in the cockpit. Any ideas?


As a status update, things I have done so far since I bought her a few weeks ago:
-Transmission flush
-Recirc engine water pumps
-Spark Plugs (original plugs still in!!)
-Spark Plug wire
-Distributot Cap and Rotor
-Removed vberth door gold t-hatch trim and replaced with chrome t-hatch
-Spent 4-5 cleaning bilge
-Fixed hot water heater hose, was leaking badly and causing water pump to cycle every 15 seconds
-Installed Dri-Dek under bow pads to reduce moisture. Noticed there were a few small blisters in gel coat from previous owner.
-Ordered black Canvas from Great Lakes Boat Top. They said they couldn't guarantee fit and couldn't warranty if bad fitment....so totally rolling the dice here.
-Added hydraulic fluid to steering wheel as it was stiff. Definitely helped.
-Take play out of gear/throttle shifters
-Installed 4" Tempurpedic pad on v-berth. Still need to make custom table that is bigger to fill in missing area that small stock table leaves when in bed mode.
-Replaced old ritchie compass with new Ritchie compass.
-Replaced old bow nav lights with Attwood 2 mile LED lights.
-Replaced masthead light with Attwood 3 mile LED light.

Still to do:
Cabinet face upgrade to wood
Cabinet pull/rosette upgrade to metal/silver
Sea water enginer pumps
Find a good deal on an older used radar system
Paint faded thru-holes chrome
V-berth hatch latch replacement
Cruisair A/C and Heat install
 
I added a 12' sub in the cockpit. It's dead center of the port side high seat. (Seat facing forward left of captains chair) I. Choose this spot fora few reasons. One the sound has area to bounce, it's not just sending sounds into dead air space it has alot of solid area to bounce off of, and two easy run for speaker wire and easy mounting. You can reach the back of the sub through the locker and run the wires right through the floor in the locker and over to the amp, I use that locker for jackets. The jackets help muffle the sound and last the only time u can see the sub is when you walking up out of the cabin. Sounds great and when u want that little extra kick of bass just crack the locker door and the difference is huge.
As for the canvas. Mine is also from gls. No is not a perfect fit but it works very well. The one major change I had to make was moving the male snaps. Originally there screwed into the glass just above the rub rail. I left the originals there and use all the originals up until the transom. I screwed all new male snaps to the underside of the rub rail in the same vertical line as the original snaps. This way the canvas hugs the rub rail and it pulls tight(Canvas was to long) doing it this was hides the extra set of snaps and puts the extra canvas to good use. Other than that my canvas fits prefect everywhere else.

Very curiouse to see what material u use and how much it will run you to relax in ate the cabin to wood..
 
GriimSpeed,
That's a long list of things that you did. I am surprised that you have hydraulic steering. The one I just looked it (a 1997) does not have it.
 
Mine has hydraulic steering as well. Did the boat u looked at have auto pilot? I think the hydraulic steering get is added when the auto pilot option is added. I had to rebuild my stearing pump attached to the back off the wheel within one month of owning the boat. (3 seasons ago) I was forming a puddle of hydro oil under the wheel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,471
Members
61,034
Latest member
Lukerney
Back
Top