Helm remote help and anybody need a 6 cd changer FREE

Xplicitlnck

Well-Known Member
Jan 2, 2012
4,030
Long island ny
Boat Info
330ec
Engines
Twin 7.4 straight drive
I'm upgrading me stereo to clarion and need to run the new wire for the remote from head unit to helm. First off can I just tape the new wire to the old and pull it through slowly or is there another way. I tried to look for access and couldn't find anything. I know a couple people did it and I remember seeing the post but I can't find it. And is 25 feet of wire enough? Now second I pulled the old 6 cd changer out and don't need it so I figured for the help you guys have given me I would give it to somebody who needs it. Everything worked when I pulled it so if anybody intested lemme know. Thanks
 
The remote wire is wire tied onto the wire loom that contains the main wiring bundle so it will not be so easy as using the old wire to pull the new. In addition the remote wire has a fairly large plug on the end that needs to be cut off to make it easier to get the old wire out. It is not too difficult though. And no, 25 feet of wire will not be enough. There is an extension remote wire installed in your boat that connects to the primary remote wire on the forward starboard side wire chase. I have pictures of the path that are sort of okay that i will try to post later (some were taken with a cell phone). Once you figure out where all the hidden screws are located it is very easy to run wire on this boat.

John

John
 
SeaRay27024.jpg


Starting at the mounting board where the stereo was originally mounted.

SeaRay27023.jpg


This is the hanging closet forward on the port side next to the radio. The panel in the back is removed by two screws hidden in folds of vinyl. You can see a cleat on either side of the closet that it screwed into.

Boatstereo010.jpg


The vinyl covered bolsters to the left and right of the mirror where I have the TV mounted are accessed by two screws each that are hidden in the fold of the vinyl. The bolster on the starboard is not really visible in this picture and the one on the port side is only visible for about 10 inches of its length.

SeaRay27021.jpg


Once removed you will see a wire loom like in the above picture (this one happens to be the starboard one).

SeaRay27030.jpg

Looking to the port.
SeaRay27031.jpg

Looking to the starboard from in the anchor locker. The smaller wire leaving the loom is the horn wire.
Once the wire leaves the port side it enters into the anchor locker. Simply open the anchor hatch to access. Easy.

Now the wire comes back into the cabin of the boat behind the vinyl bolster on the starboard side. From here it goes behind the microwave.

SeaRay27025.jpg


This untidy mess of wires is behind the AC circuit panel above the cooktop. Don't worry I have since dressed all these wires. The remote wire now goes behind the head stall and exits under the gunwale on the starboard side at the helm.

SeaRay27045.jpg


On my boat I have a speaker to the starboard side of the helm seat seen above. When removed you can look forward into the cavity under the gunwale and see the below wire bundle. This is where the remote wire exits from behind the head stall.

SeaRay27026.jpg


Last is to open the access to the wires under the helm and you are looking at the back of the remote itself. You will have to cut a lot of wire ties to free up the old remote wire.

One tip is to leave pull cables (I use 1/16 inch pink nylon cord) behind all of these access panels that are at least twice the length of the distance they are covering. Coil up the excess on both ends and tie off in an easier accessible area. For instance, I have one from behind the radio to the anchor locker, another from the anchor locker to behind the AC access panel, and lastly from the AC access panel to under the helm. This way next time I have to run a wire I do not have to remove all the vinyl covered bolsters. Easy.

I know the pictures are not that great but hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Now second I pulled the old 6 cd changer out and don't need it so I figured for the help you guys have given me I would give it to somebody who needs it. Everything worked when I pulled it so if anybody intested lemme know. Thanks

If you're giving away the old changer I'd love to have it. When I bought my boat the CD magazine was missing. So aside from missing parts, I'm not sure mine works. I'll send you a PM to discuss over email.

James
 
Thank you very much for the info and a big thanks for the pics that helps aton I will let you know how I make out thanks again
 
And again thanks for the help got the wire in with not problems at all and only took me about 20 min
 
And again thanks for the help got the wire in with not problems at all and only took me about 20 min

glad the pictures helped and that you got the wire run. did you leave behind pull cables to make it easier next time you have to run wires?

John
 
Nope didn't leave any pull cables behind I should have but it was ready enough and I don't really plan on putting anything else in
 
Our model came with 2 6 disc changers, but only one works... If someone doesn't have one then give to them, but otherwise we could swap out our broken one and have 2 functioning players....?
 
Great pictures Loneranger. This type of post is what this place is all about. It helps us all save a ton of time
 
This is a great post, thanks for the pictures and all the information! I'm getting ready to install the MW1 remote in my '99 270 DA. The part I'm hoping for some more clarification on is the run from the AC panel, behind the head, and into the compartment under the steering wheel. My questions are;
1) how do you get the AC panel to fold down? I noticed the hinge on the bottom, but I didn't see any screws that looked like they would allow the panel to fold down on the hinge.
2) how do you run the wire behind the head, and more importantly...
3) how do you retrieve the wire once it’s near the opening to the compartment under the helm? I get the concept here, just not sure how to get a flimsy cable run behind the head and then be able to grab it blindly through the approximately 6” hold where the wire harness runs.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
what are cd's? :huh:
Yea, wats a CD?? All my music is broadcast MP3's, meaning - I broadcast to all the boats around so they can all tune in to the same music. Sandbar Radio - 107.9 FM
 
This is a great post, thanks for the pictures and all the information! I'm getting ready to install the MW1 remote in my '99 270 DA. The part I'm hoping for some more clarification on is the run from the AC panel, behind the head, and into the compartment under the steering wheel. My questions are;
1) how do you get the AC panel to fold down? I noticed the hinge on the bottom, but I didn't see any screws that looked like they would allow the panel to fold down on the hinge.
2) how do you run the wire behind the head, and more importantly...
3) how do you retrieve the wire once it’s near the opening to the compartment under the helm? I get the concept here, just not sure how to get a flimsy cable run behind the head and then be able to grab it blindly through the approximately 6” hold where the wire harness runs.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

LoanRanger will have to chime in. I installed the same unit for Seattleite on his 260DA, but I'm afraid the layouts are different.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...-wired-remote-that-fits)?highlight=Seattleite.
 
Depending on your head unit, Clarion offers a wireless remote control that is supposed to be waterproof and float. It is a nice alternative if you do not want to run the wire, or a nice compliment to the wired version.
 
This is a great post, thanks for the pictures and all the information! I'm getting ready to install the MW1 remote in my '99 270 DA. The part I'm hoping for some more clarification on is the run from the AC panel, behind the head, and into the compartment under the steering wheel. My questions are;
1) how do you get the AC panel to fold down? I noticed the hinge on the bottom, but I didn't see any screws that looked like they would allow the panel to fold down on the hinge.
There are 2 screws at the top of the panel, IIRC. I will be at the boat this weekend and can verify this if needed.
2) how do you run the wire behind the head, and more importantly...
3) how do you retrieve the wire once it’s near the opening to the compartment under the helm? I get the concept here, just not sure how to get a flimsy cable run behind the head and then be able to grab it blindly through the approximately 6” hold where the wire harness runs.
I used a fiberglass wire snake to go through an existing hole behind the helm running along the starboard side wall behind the head and into the electrical panel area.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Let me know if you need any other help.
 
This is a great post, thanks for the pictures and all the information! I'm getting ready to install the MW1 remote in my '99 270 DA. The part I'm hoping for some more clarification on is the run from the AC panel, behind the head, and into the compartment under the steering wheel. My questions are;
1) how do you get the AC panel to fold down? I noticed the hinge on the bottom, but I didn't see any screws that looked like they would allow the panel to fold down on the hinge.
2) how do you run the wire behind the head, and more importantly...
3) how do you retrieve the wire once it’s near the opening to the compartment under the helm? I get the concept here, just not sure how to get a flimsy cable run behind the head and then be able to grab it blindly through the approximately 6” hold where the wire harness runs.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

i do not get on the site much anymore but I am still subscribed to a bunch of threads so I get notified if anyone posts in them.

There are two small black Phillips screws in the top corners of the AC panel. Remove these and the AC panel folds down.

Use a wire snake. If you do not own one it is worth the purchase if you own a boat, car, house, pretty much anything with wiring. I use a flat metal tape. Some people use a fiberglass version. I like the metal because it has a bit of curve to it so I can direct it a bit up, down, or sideways if needed.

I removed the speaker on the starboard side next to my steering wheel. From there I put the snake into the cavity behind the speaker and pushed it behind the head. I had a helper looking for the other end of the fish tape in the AC panel area.

Do yourself a favor and leave nylon cords in all of the chases where you run wires. This way you can use the nylon cord to pull wires in the future and never have to fool with the fish tape for the inevitable next upgrade.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,170
Messages
1,427,765
Members
61,080
Latest member
Jfeg
Back
Top