Official 280 Sundancer Thread

You can see it clearly from the helm if it's turning or not, should be a tool in the locker to tighten it up if that's your problem
 
Tighten the hex head on top of the gypsy. If you don't have the tool borrow a winch handle from a sailboater. They are the same size.
 
Like mentioned above, tightening the clutch is a very simple thing. It's just like tightening a nut. But what you're looking for is... the top cap of the winch (the spot you would put your hand on if you put your palm down onto it) should move at the same rate as the actual gypsy. This top piece is separate from the gypsy. When the "slipping" occurs, and if the clutch simply needs to be tightened, you'll see the top cap continue to move but the gypsy will not.
 
I just tried tightening the top fitting, since I have the Lofrans torx tool. Didn't budge. I'm having my wife record video (using my cell phone) while I pull up anchor at the end of the day. I'll take it home and watch it on the big screen to see exactly what's slipping. I still say it's the gypsy. The line doesn't slip much, but when it gets to the chain it gets worse. Wouldn't be fun if a storm was approaching and I needed to get the anchor up quickly.
 
I've been having the same problem for the past several seasons. I was told that it mightbe the rope and chain that need to be replaced. I picked up the 200' of 1/2" rope with the 20' of 1/4" chain from WestMarine, but I'm not sure it's the answer and I haven't installed it yet. The gypsy looks worn also.
i'm not sure the 200' of rope will work either, since the original equipment had 150' of rope.
any. Thoughts on this?
 
I took the video yesterday and went home and watched it in slow motion. Definitely slipping on the gypsy. I'll call IMTRA and pick their brain as to how to tell which of the three variations I need. How easy is it to remove? Simply undo the top torx fitting and lift it off? Sounds too easy!
 
Hello All,
I finally took purchase of my 05 280 with twin 4.3 MPI's w/Kohler 5k. I have a couple questions:

1. My Port engine voltage shows like 10 volts at idle and 13.7 at cruise speed, the Starboard one shows 13.7 at idle and 14.2 at cruise speed. Today I had to use the emergency switch to start the port engine. It is almost like the inverter is not charging that battery and the alternator is not charging at full capacity?? OOOOORRRR the battery is NFG??? The guy said he just replaced all 3 batteries but you know how that goes. I know the port engine also runs all the house stuff but it seems like there is a major drain on that battery that is not allowing the battery to charge?

2. While docking, the Starboard engine runs rough and has stalled many times while trying to dock. Also, while cruising, the Starboard engine seems to run "ruff," like it is running harder or making more noise than the port one??? I am thinking I need to just do a tune up but just seeing what everybody else thinks.

3. My last boat was a 23 foot open bow. It did not have trim tabs and I would trim out the motor in order to go faster at the same rpm. It seems when I try to trim out the motors on this boat, with trim tabs, I lose power and it just cavitates. Is this correct?

4. Is there a way to see how much the trim tabs are up or down?

5. The display on the RPM gages are not able to show different information?? Is there a way to show depth on one and voltage on the other???

I appreciate every bodies help and advice.

Frank
 
Hello All,
I finally took purchase of my 05 280 with twin 4.3 MPI's w/Kohler 5k. I have a couple questions:

1. My Port engine voltage shows like 10 volts at idle and 13.7 at cruise speed, the Starboard one shows 13.7 at idle and 14.2 at cruise speed. Today I had to use the emergency switch to start the port engine. It is almost like the inverter is not charging that battery and the alternator is not charging at full capacity?? OOOOORRRR the battery is NFG??? The guy said he just replaced all 3 batteries but you know how that goes. I know the port engine also runs all the house stuff but it seems like there is a major drain on that battery that is not allowing the battery to charge?

2. While docking, the Starboard engine runs rough and has stalled many times while trying to dock. Also, while cruising, the Starboard engine seems to run "ruff," like it is running harder or making more noise than the port one??? I am thinking I need to just do a tune up but just seeing what everybody else thinks.

3. My last boat was a 23 foot open bow. It did not have trim tabs and I would trim out the motor in order to go faster at the same rpm. It seems when I try to trim out the motors on this boat, with trim tabs, I lose power and it just cavitates. Is this correct?

4. Is there a way to see how much the trim tabs are up or down?

5. The display on the RPM gages are not able to show different information?? Is there a way to show depth on one and voltage on the other???

I appreciate every bodies help and advice.

Frank

Up on plane just tap the bow up just a touch nothing drastic or it will cavitate. I take off with tabs down then bring them up.
 
1. Not sure what you mean by inverter. You have a battery charger that runs off of shore power and an alternator. I would check what you at getting out of the alternator and also verify the condition of the batteries. My guess is the alternator.
2. Many possible causes for this. Start by changing the IAC muffler/filter. Its a $2 piece of foam that will take less than 10 minutes. If that doesn't work change out the IAC. Search IAC on this forum and you will get great information. From there start checking plugs, wires, etc.
3. Your boat is very sensitive to engine trim. You cannot get the same juice out of trimming that you did on the bow rider. 1-2 on the trim indicator is max before you start losing the angle.
4. Not unless you install after market trim tab indicators? Bennett has a forum on this site that has all you need to know about trim tabs
5. I don't remember all of the variables. Play with it.

Congrats on the boat.
 
1. Not sure what you mean by inverter. You have a battery charger that runs off of shore power and an alternator. I would check what you at getting out of the alternator and also verify the condition of the batteries. My guess is the alternator.
2. Many possible causes for this. Start by changing the IAC muffler/filter. Its a $2 piece of foam that will take less than 10 minutes. If that doesn't work change out the IAC. Search IAC on this forum and you will get great information. From there start checking plugs, wires, etc.
3. Your boat is very sensitive to engine trim. You cannot get the same juice out of trimming that you did on the bow rider. 1-2 on the trim indicator is max before you start losing the angle.
4. Not unless you install after market trim tab indicators? Bennett has a forum on this site that has all you need to know about trim tabs
5. I don't remember all of the variables. Play with it.

Congrats on the boat.

After looking at the charging system today, here is what I found. When the engine is running, the batteries show as charging at cruising speed, port is 13.7 and starboard is 14.2. When connected to shore power the port shows 10v and starboard shows 12 but they are not charging, they are draining, with the generator on, it is the same as being connected to shore power. It seems as if the battery charger is not working. It shows a red power on light and a green charging light (both on) but the amp meter shows 0. I am not sure there isn't something wrong with the alternator, but I just think the charger is not charging??
 
When I bought my boat (same as yours) my voltage gauges read 14.2 for both motors. A couple of years ago the port alternator went out and was repalced by MM with the exact same one. Now my port shows 13.7 max. Nobody can give me a clear answer but the motor starts fine and the battery never seems like it's dead. I think the new alternator puts out a little less voltage than the older one?
 
When I left the boat yesterday, I left the shore power plugged in with just the battery charger and fridge turned on for AC, I pulled the keys for both motors and shut off both battery switches. Today when I got to the boat, all three batteries were charged. I think that the battery charger only charges the batteries when the key switches are shut off, I think....
I still have the problem where the starboard engine seems to run rougher and stalls at low rpm in reverse. I checked the plugs, wires, caps and rotors and all seem new, that is good and bad, now what do I look for? I did look at the fuel filters, there seems to be two of them, one silver on the floor of the engine room, and then a white one that looks like a oil filter on the motor?? I am not sure what to look at next to stop the stalling of the starboard motor?? Someone said to check the IAC filter, I have tried looking for info on that and cant really find anything???
I am learning more about this boat everyday and I again appreciate all of your help. Thanks again.
Frank
 
Frank,
My onboard charger is charging anytime the boat is plugged in with the inverter switched in the on position. I am not certain if the 4.3 have idle air controllers if so I would start there. There should be an IAC filter in the throttle body, make sure it is clean. If no IAC it should have some sort of O2 sensor that is malfunctioning.
 
I still have the problem where the starboard engine seems to run rougher and stalls at low rpm in reverse. I checked the plugs, wires, caps and rotors and all seem new, that is good and bad, now what do I look for? I did look at the fuel filters, there seems to be two of them, one silver on the floor of the engine room, and then a white one that looks like a oil filter on the motor?? I am not sure what to look at next to stop the stalling of the starboard motor?? Someone said to check the IAC filter, I have tried looking for info on that and cant really find anything???
I am learning more about this boat everyday and I again appreciate all of your help. Thanks again.
Frank

Actually I misread... Probably your IAC... here's at least one thread regarding the IAC.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/36072-Impeller-IAC
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...lve-(IAC)/page2?highlight=idle+air+controller

Second option...
You may need to adjust your shifter on that engine if it is stalling just when you shift. Im betting that you have alpha outdrives, and those do not have a cone clutch like the Bravo I-III drives do. To avoid damage to the engine/drives when you go to shift into reverse there is a mechanism that slows the engine almost to the point of stalling as it "crashes" into gear. I think it's called retarding the timing or something like that. At any rate, there is an adjustment on the shift linkage at the engine, that sets that point and how drastically things are slowed down.
 
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I just want to report an update from my earlier posts. I bought a new windlass gypsy and it did the trick. I guess 11 years on a gypsy isn't too bad, so I can't complain. The replacement for the Lofrans Marlin (1/4" #7) was $184.00. No more slipping!
 
Is there any access points to the bilge from the aft? I have noticed a faint smell in the cabin on really hot days running the gen. It is not a poo smell and not an exhaust or gas smell. It seems to smell a lot like my bilge after running the engines.
 

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