Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Jposey66 said:
Just guessing here, also, but I'm thinking they were trying to get to the back of the boat with something. Drain lines, maybe, to fix the sump issues. I bet, when they pulled that plug out, they realized that this area was full of floatation and just sealed it back up. I have done some exploratory surgery, on my 240 when trying to figure out how to run hoses and ducts for permanent air, and discovered that the enclosed areas along each chine under the head and port cabinets are full of floatation foam. I'm guessing this area was full of it also and they just sealed it back up. Is there usually any water in your bilge?

For the sump issues, I swapped the foot switch to an electronic water sensor/switch. When it senses water, it comes on, and then continues to run until 30 seconds after it last senses water. The old foot switch would stick sometimes, as the water rose very slowly, like Mike mentioned, and run over. No more problems after swapping to the electronic sensor and that 30 second thing keeps the sump very dry. Before, the sump always had an inch or two of water in it. Here is the switch that I swapped to.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-S3-Digital-Bilge-Switch/14150756

Posey


Posey
Click to expand...

I agree with this line of thinking.
 
islandhopper00 said:
I'm being to sensitive but damn, I put alot of thought into my guess to not even be acknowledged by the op. I'm out!!!
Click to expand...


I sincerely apologize for the extended time before I can
reply,and thank you all for your help.
This adventure into being the only guy ever to buy a boat
with a cutout hole that leaks water is not over...
More info to come.



Happy Fathers Day to All
 
Anyone replace the plastic vent covers on the side of their boat? The part is 23 1788403 COVER, T/F 240DA-06 Deck Vent STB ARW. When I got my 2006, the port side was cracked, but intact. Last night while docking in current, the Admiral was a bit enthusiastic and a 5" chunk of plastic is now on the bottom. The part looks as though it is glued on and that it might be quite easy to replace. Any suggestions on the best way to procure a new part?

Thanks,
 
Dave in Wisconsin said:
Anyone replace the plastic vent covers on the side of their boat? The part is 23 1788403 COVER, T/F 240DA-06 Deck Vent STB ARW. When I got my 2006, the port side was cracked, but intact. Last night while docking in current, the Admiral was a bit enthusiastic and a 5" chunk of plastic is now on the bottom. The part looks as though it is glued on and that it might be quite easy to replace. Any suggestions on the best way to procure a new part?

Thanks,
Click to expand...
Your local dealer.
 
Looking to upgrade the stereo in my '06 240, Is there an amp already installed for the speakers or are they just direct wired to the head unit?

Looking at some 6.5 inch JBL 6200's 180w max
JBL marine amp
JBL Marine 10" sub

The Sub has its own built-in amp so don't need a separate one for that but didn't know if I was gonna need an amp for the new speakers.

Thanks!
 
my 96' 240 has 2 banks, 2 group 27's that are deep cycle. and # 2 bank has a group 31 starter(brand new from costco, mfg by johnson controls).

The group 31 marine starting battery cranks the the motor, but it seems like it is struggling. If i put it on bank 1, with the 2 group 27s from 2010 they crank it 2x as fast and it sounds normal, just like my old jeep cranking up. (edit, bought a new battery switch, just to make sure there was no voltage loss there)

its already hard enough to start cold and with this slow cranking its really annoying. i dont want to run bank 1 as my starter as a group 31 should have enough amps to crank a 5.7 motor i would think??

i also have a blue sea ACR to connect all banks while running. and i charged the battery today, just to make sure it wasnt a charging or alternator issue.

volt meter show 14.4 at battery, so charge is getting to it. (edit, just bought a amp tester, and the starter is drawing about 300 amps when cranking, not sure what that means. Also all the connections are good, the only thing i cannot get to is the ground to the motor, would need to take manifold thing off to fit a wrench there)

any suggestions? and how difficult is changing the starter, looks impossible to reach.
 
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This is for AllTideUp:

I installed JL 2x 6.5", 2x 7.7" and a 10" sub in the cockpit with a Memphis Audio amp(inside the cabin behind the light switches) wired to the existing Clarion radio. I left the Panasonic speakers in the cabin. Sounds amazing and you can get the speaker on Amazon. I tell you getting an amp for your speakers will really help. But you don't need a marine amp if you instill it in the cabin.
 
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So I got all my overheating issues figured out, new manifolds, risers and thermostat. Engine runs at a steady 156 degrees. Now I cant get the engine to run faster than 3000 ROM which means I am not getting on plane. Bottom has fresh paint and is clean. Any ideas to try before I can the mechanic?
 
ankrummg said:
So I got all my overheating issues figured out, new manifolds, risers and thermostat. Engine runs at a steady 156 degrees. Now I cant get the engine to run faster than 3000 ROM which means I am not getting on plane. Bottom has fresh paint and is clean. Any ideas to try before I can the mechanic?
Click to expand...

Sounds like one of the smartcraft sensors is overiding the throttle and not allowing you to achieve maximum rpm........See if a mercruiser dealer can plug in to the diagnostics.......
 
Starter Draw on a 5.7l should be 195 to 225 amps. I suspect armature winding breakdown causing higher than normal readings. Changing the starter out is not easy but is doable with some patience. 2 bolts come in from underneath the starter housing. stubby gear wrenches make the job easier; just remember to disconnect negative cables at batteries beforehand.
 
ankrummg said:
This is for AllTideUp:

I installed JL 2x 6.5", 2x 7.7" and a 10" sub in the cockpit with a Memphis Audio amp(inside the cabin behind the light switches) wired to the existing Clarion radio. I left the Panasonic speakers in the cabin. Sounds amazing and you can get the speaker on Amazon. I tell you getting an amp for your speakers will really help. But you don't need a marine amp if you instill it in the cabin.
Click to expand...

Sounds similar to what I was gonna set up. Where did you install the 7.7" speakers at? I wasn't looking at those.

Thanks
 
thanks,

i found that either my ground wire is bad or my ground on motor connection is bad. however, i cannot seem to get the bolt off.

so temporarily i have ran a 2nd ground from bank 2 to bank 1(since its ground is good). at 7$ a foot that 8ft run is expensive temp fix when only 2 ft is needed. oops



mako-6 said:
Starter Draw on a 5.7l should be 195 to 225 amps. I suspect armature winding breakdown causing higher than normal readings. Changing the starter out is not easy but is doable with some patience. 2 bolts come in from underneath the starter housing. stubby gear wrenches make the job easier; just remember to disconnect negative cables at batteries beforehand.
Click to expand...
 
Hi all. Just bought a 2003 240 sundancer. I was reading some of the posts regarding the windless anchoring system. They are a little more than I want to spend at the time. However, I'm having a heck of a time getting my anchor in and out of the water because I have to feed it between the bow and the rail. It's a danforth with about 12 ft of chain, but I'm always worried about hitting by boat or dragging the chain and causing damage. Would a bow roller arm make sense? My thinking is to get some extension out away from the boat. Sorry, I'm a rookie and just loll in for some guidance. Thanks.


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