Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

cazimmy said:
Where is that located? I don't think I have fuel selector switches or at least I haven't found them yet.
Click to expand...

Mine is on the port side at rear in a cabinet. I do not believe the 2002 models have them.
 
This option is really found on many of the diesal models not common on gas DA's. Did notice on the picture that both switches were directing fuel only to the port side only. Should have one tank per engine. Just an obersvation?
 

Attachments

  • DSC00119q (WinCE).JPG
    DSC00119q (WinCE).JPG
    6.4 KB · Views: 390
cazimmy said:
Where is that located? I don't think I have fuel selector switches or at least I haven't found them yet.
Click to expand...

They're in a cabinet on the rear port side. Ya, they're both on the same tank.....not sure why. I bought the boat in October and haven't had it out on the water - been having a lot of work done to it and will be launching her in about a month.

Thanks for the replies.....
 
Next question:

Anyone with out boat recently had all new canvas and cockpit upholstery done? I ask because I'm going to have mine done and want to have a general idea on each other their individual costs so I don't get raped as a newbie.
 
That about right for this boat 2.5 to 3K full canvas. An important thing to watch out for is the type of material used, double stitch the seems and the use of good thread during manufacturing them to avoid re doing them in a years time. If you go ahead with a new canvas use canvas protectant / water proofing. I use West Marine brand about 45 bucks a gal. They also have smaller 16 or 20 oz bottles a little expensive but it does the job nicely plus it avoids material fading and drips through the seem in heavy pours. Vida.
 
ksimmons and Vida - thanks for the information.....it really helps.

I took everything from my deck that has upholstery in today, and was quoted $3300. To be honest, I was rather shocked as once everything was off the boat - there's really not that much there. I don't know anything about upholstery or canvas - there must be a heck of a lot of labor involved.

I also got a quote from the same place on the full camper canvas - windshield to stern. $5200 using the Seamark material, and $6300 using some material that also had a nice liner on the underside. Once again, I just about had a stroke.

I got a quote from Great Lakes, and it's a little over $3k for their full set-up, including new rails.

Have any of you gotten the full set-up from Great Lakes? Any pictures?

This company is where every place has recommended, and after a thorough search, they're pretty much the only company around the Denver area. I don't mind paying to play, but I don't want to get screwed in the process.

Thoughts, comments? Thanks.....
 
Just read your info. $5200 / $6300 is way to high even with the best material. I would understand these persons quoting are really not boat canvas manufactures and are just quoting to see and feel the market. Another option is for you to purchase the material, a lot of mark up go's into the materials this could lower some of the expense since the material can be track down picking the best price. Find someone that can estimate the total yards required and include the clear vinyl requirements. Go with manufactures that have done and understand boats and it's end use so they will fit correctly and last as long as possible for the buck. Just a few ideas.
 
Can someone give me some insight on how the bulkheads on either side of the engine compartment are constructed? Specificallly the port side. I have the engine exhaust system removed including the shelf which the muffler is attached to. When it is raining, I am getting a trickle of brown water out of the right side screw hole which the shelf bracket is attached to. The left side screw, approximately 5 inches to the back is completely dry. I have tapped on the bulk head and there is no sign of softness, and I have pushed a small allen wrench in which does not penetrate and does not indicate any softness in the hole. This screw is just about in alignment with the water heater and holding tank. The boat is shrink wrapped currently, and there are very few leaks in the wrap and the cockpit area is dry.

If I knew how the bulkhead was constructed, and if there were any ways to see in, I may be able to track down the leak. I have watched carefully the side of the hull above the holding tank and water heater and can't see any water leaking down.

If anyone has any ideas, that would be great!

Thanks!
 
Anyone know how deep our tanks are? I have a 99 310DA and I'm thinking they're less than 2 feet, and rectangular shape. Can anyone verify that?
 
cazimmy said:
We just replaced the old TV/VCR Combo unit with a Flat Panel TV with build in DVD Player. I thought I would post the pictures for anyone who is interested. We gained an entire cabinet!

I ordered the door from Rocker Woodworking (www.rockler.com It's 18.75 x 19.75 - color = Summer Flame = $55). The bracket is made for RV's so it locks in place (OmniMount LCD Flat Panel Cntilever Mount - RV Locking TV - Found on ebay - brand new for $50 with shipping). The TV is 19" and with shipping an tax was about $160. Of course, the help from my father - priceless :)

View attachment 20050
View attachment 20049
Click to expand...
What hardware or brackets did you use for the door? Is it reinforced on the inside of cabinet.
Thx
 
Have a 98 with 5.7Mercs and V Drive, was out running at 3400rpm for about an hour, suddenly heard a pop sound from the starboard side, then the power on that side just dropped out. It will still go in gear and I can run about 2K without any trouble, Port side running fine. Any Ideas? Has this happened to anyone?
 
Dt0116 said:
Have a 98 with 5.7Mercs and V Drive, was out running at 3400rpm for about an hour, suddenly heard a pop sound from the starboard side, then the power on that side just dropped out. It will still go in gear and I can run about 2K without any trouble, Port side running fine. Any Ideas? Has this happened to anyone?
Click to expand...

How does the starboard engine sound? Have you done a visual inspection of the engine? Check to ensure that all plugs and wires are where they are supposed to be. Until you can have it checked out, I wouldn't run it - there's too much chance of doing more damage.
 
Has anyone had problems with water pressure in the sinks? The pump is pressurizing the water tank, then stops running until I call for water and then the pumps kicks on but there is not a lot of pressure. I checked for leaks and there aren't any. Has anyone had this problem before and does anyone know if there is a filter someplace that maybe I need to take out and clean?

Thanks.
 
cazimmy said:
Has anyone had problems with water pressure in the sinks? The pump is pressurizing the water tank, then stops running until I call for water and then the pumps kicks on but there is not a lot of pressure. I checked for leaks and there aren't any. Has anyone had this problem before and does anyone know if there is a filter someplace that maybe I need to take out and clean?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes, mine does that as well. I don't have any leaks either, so I feel as if it pumps the water to the spout and after you use it, gravity does its job and it works it's way back down to the tank some. When you open the spout it pumps it again through the lines back up. I don't think the pump keeps the water pumped in the lines the whole time - although I could be wrong. I believe mine is the original one, so maybe both ours are going bad? who knows..
 
Last edited:
jaywoodz said:
Yes, mine does that as well. I don't have any leaks either, so I feel as if it pumps the water to the spout and after you use it, gravity does its job and it works it's way back down to the tank some. When you open the spout it pumps it again through the lines back up. I don't think the pump keeps the water pumped in the lines the whole time - although I could be wrong. I believe mine is the original one, so maybe both ours is going bad? who knows..
Click to expand...

I asked our mechanic and he seems to feel that normally the pumps either work or they don't. Since it works, he thinks there must be a filter some place. Ours is the original one also.
 
The pump is supposed to "pump and hold pressure" - in other words, whatever pressure it is set to turn off at, it will either hold or pump more to re-pressurize. It could be that the pressure setting/sensor is off, and I don't know if they are adjustable (I have the impression that they might be, but I can't say for sure).

However, it is likely that the pump produces a higher flow rate while pumping than just system pressure alone will produce. For example, if you have a 3GPM pump, it will pump 3 gallons per minute, period, until it cuts off. However, if it is set to a 45 lbs PSI cutoff, then that 45 lbs PSI pressure in your system might not produce 3GPM of flow. So you get a lower starting flow rate when you open the faucet, but then the pump kicks in and increases the flow rate to the pump's maximum output.

Flow rate and pressure are not the same thing.
 
Hello all,
I'm new to this so I have many questions. I have had many boats over the years including a 1971 22ft. searay "one of my favorite"now my family has grown and I need a bigger boat. 3kids says searay 310 money says 2000-2002 I say 454 with I/O.

I looked at one and loved it, great layout, but the motor head in me is leary of 12-14 year old rwc motors. Finding FWC I/O is proving to be quite difficult, am I being to anal?

I'm on the south shore of long island and found 2 fwc 350 I/o in Virginia ,kinda far, a rwc 350 I/o in new jersey with all new running
gear, and a rwc 454 in boston there all around $50000. Any body have any insight?

I'm also worried about the corrosion problem on the bravo 3 and I,m trying to stay away from anything with more than 500hrs.

Any help would be greatly appreiciated also any 310's you know about.

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,117
Messages
1,426,410
Members
61,029
Latest member
Curious
Back
Top