310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

Hey Guys I'm joining the club with a new to me 2010 330DA. I'm going to have a lot of questions as I try to figure out the systems. The first one is easy I hope. Where is the SS leg for the salon table stored? Found the table under the forward berth but can't find the leg. Thanks in advance!

Hi JimT - congrats on the new boat :)

My table leg for downstairs was under the table plate in the forward berth. I think it is the same height as the outdoor one - so if PO lost a leg... once could have been relocated. But there are many places a table leg could hide. You could check behind the starboard backrest in the rear bed/couch - that actually pulls out from the TOP - and in mine some of the stereo stuff was in there (and not much else)
 
Hi JimT - congrats on the new boat :)

My table leg for downstairs was under the table plate in the forward berth. I think it is the same height as the outdoor one - so if PO lost a leg... once could have been relocated. But there are many places a table leg could hide. You could check behind the starboard backrest in the rear bed/couch - that actually pulls out from the TOP - and in mine some of the stereo stuff was in there (and not much else)

Thanks Kaz, you were right. It was behind the cushion in the aft berth along with the stereo amp. Not sure why Sea Ray would locate it there when it fits perfectly in the cutout under the table.
 
a3yraqy7.jpg
hows this? Now it does exist!
9a3e9a8e.jpg
 
Thanks very happy...
Anyone have any advice on the overhead LED lights not working?
I checked the connections on switch that operates the 2 foot lights at the entrance to cabin. I have not checked the switch by forward berth however. Have to check that next time I'm down.
Thanks
 
Checked connections at both switch panel's- cabin entrance and forward berth. No luck ... I guess next is to check the 2 switches to see if there working properly... Unless anyone else has a suggestion. ?

Now problem #2
Chiller draw fridge not working- the previous owner never used it
(Had original paperwork still inside)
Turned it on- DOA... Any suggestions ?
How is this removed ?
Thanks
 
Yes I do remember reading that... 12v only.
Anyone else have any suggestions on what to check ?
Fridge or led ceiling lights ? Thanks
 
My chiller fridge doesn't work either... Changed batteries to big 31s and still doesn't work... I just use it to store bottles of water..
 
Jim- good to see you on here. I own the 310 you looked at on Lanier. I started this thread a couple of years ago - very informative and good group of people to chat with.
 
anyone ever remove the crisper drawer fridge on 310 da? what is the best line of attack/diagnosis?
these couple little problems are eating me alive :smt021
1-drawer fridge
2-ceiling led lights
3-broken female pin on garmin vhf.... anyone have an electronics shop that can replace a pin?
thanks to all....
 
Jim- good to see you on here. I own the 310 you looked at on Lanier. I started this thread a couple of years ago - very informative and good group of people to chat with.


Hey Mike - I recognize the boat! Hope you find a buyer soon.
 
anyone ever remove the crisper drawer fridge on 310 da? what is the best line of attack/diagnosis?
these couple little problems are eating me alive :smt021
1-drawer fridge
2-ceiling led lights
3-broken female pin on garmin vhf.... anyone have an electronics shop that can replace a pin?
thanks to all....

We probably have the same setup.

The drawer fridge is counter-intuitive. It has a remote chiller (separate from the drawer). The chiller is actually behind the refrigerator in the kitchen which is easy to remove; I think it is just 4 screws if I remember right and it slides out.

These Isotherm CR36 drawers are notoriously sensitive to low voltage; they just stop working. LED lights also won't come on if there is low voltage, so that's my best guess as to your problem. Measure your voltage at the battery, then measure it again at the input to the drawer's chiller. If there is a significant difference, that's your problem.

Isotherm / Danforth makes a trouble-shooting guide for the chiller that may help, I got it from them when I was debugging my cabin low voltage problem. It is too big to attach to the forums, so PM me an email address if you'd like a copy. The most important thing in it is the blink codes:

Number of BlinksError
5Thermal cut-out of electronic unit
The system is overloaded or the ambient temperature is too high.
Temp overload set at 131° F (55° C)
4Minimum motor speed error
System is too heavily loaded. Motor cannot maintain minimum
speed of 1850 rpm
3Motor start error
The rotor is blocked or I pressure in the refrigeration system is too
high. More than 73 psi (5 bar)
2Fan over-current cut-out
Fan current exceeds 1A maximum at terminals F & +
1Battery Protection cut out activated
Supply voltage low – 10.6V (22.4 on 24V systems)

You'll probably see a 1-blink for low voltage, which you can check with a meter.

How do I know all this? My cabin voltage was low and it started with me trying to figure out why the drawer didn't work and the CO detector was beeping. If this is the problem you have to find the loose / corroded connection. The most likely place is the main DC buss behind the breaker panel. Unplug AC and turn off the battery mains before opening this panel. Here's my thread on the topic that shows you where to look:
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/45146-Low-cabin-DC-voltage

Snug up every connection in there while you have the breaker panel open, things shake loose.

Rich
 
Thanks for the reply and the link to the other thread.
This is exactly what I was looking for!
Someplace to start...
I will try and get to boat this weekend and report.
 
Went to boat today.... No dice on corrosion...
Everything behind main electric panel looks brand new..
Anyone else have suggestions?
 
Sell the boat buy a 40 Sedan bridge LOL
 
Har har.... But it's a sea ray..: )
Your the one that told me to support the site and members
Would help me with these problems.... So far I'm still holding
My breath....
 
Har har.... But it's a sea ray..: )
Your the one that told me to support the site and members
Would help me with these problems.... So far I'm still holding
My breath....

usually we can only help if we have seen or heard about the issue before. But I have not seen issues with the LED light. Then you have to do like the rest of us when we face a new problem - look it up in the SR manual - and trace the power on the electrical diagram. Then you might be able to see where the LED lights are failing. I don't know how SR wired up the LEDs - if they are in series or parallel. If they are in series - then just one cable break along the way can kill all the LED lights like an old Christmas tree light. Then once we have found a solution - we post about it here for future reference :)
 
Ok here should be an easier questions-
There are 2 switch panels- 1 at main entrance has 4 swithes
1 at foward berth. Has 2 switches
Can you tell me the position of all switches to get indirect- LED lights to
Illuminate?
This should help me trace my problem.
New to me boat- don't know which switch or position makes them work.
 

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