The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

rabyers1 said:
Kevin - Did you install the Lewmar 700 as Dennis did or a different windlass? Would love to see some pictures of your install.
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Yes the Lewmar v700. Its all stainless, looks great and fits well.
I will dig up the pictures and put together a posting.
The Lewmar package included everything: windlass, rocker switch, contactor/relay, and thermal breaker.

I purchased a different breaker since the one provided was a panel mount (rear terminal) and I thought it was easier to install a surface mount (front terminals). I also skipped installing a main solenoid as the factory would (based on time and cost) and I can turn of the system easily from the thermal breaker.

I would also budget for approx 90 feet of 6awg (2x45 red+black) some heavy crimp terminals and a nice crimp tool. If you want foot switches they will need to be wired from the contactor/relay to the front locker. Even if you don't want them now you should pre-wire anyway since the cost of the wiring is negligible versus the time to install later. Then if you want them its a simple job.
 
araxton said:
I just got home, raised the outdrive (yes, original Bravo III) and verified 24P. Now I am more puzzled. What you both say is what I have read on the topic as well. Theoretically, if I lower the pitch to 19, it would increase RPM by 1000 and put me in normal operating range. But why would my boat with same setup perform so differently?
Is my only option to purchase another prop, haul the boat, change the prop, launch and hope for better performance? Again, could there be something else going on here?
The conditions I have been running under are very low-load (half fuel, half water, two people, no other gear). I will see what the local prop-shop expert says, but it seems the prop I have is pretty standard for this setup. What other variables might cause such a difference?
Thanks so very much for your input, it is really helpful!
Al
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My props are stamped 20P and I when I got the boat last year I was having a hard time getting above 4500. I took the props for a tune-up this spring and had the cups removed and the props cleaned, balanced etc. I also had my bottom scrapped, sanded, primed and painted and now 4800 is an easy reach for my 5.0 MPI. The engine is less stressed and I have no problem getting up to the mid 30s. So that is a 300 RPM increase with no change in pitch.

If you are considering changing you pitch I would try to find a reputable mechanic or prob shop that will allow you to test different pitches and swap out based on the results. The Bravo III props are kind of expensive and if your props are in good shape some shops will offer you a trade in credit vs new/used ones.

Since you probably don't now what the results would be I would resist online shopping where you might get stuck with props and find a local shop that has them in stock.
 
Al, Assuming you did a visual inspection of your props and saw no damage and due to the fact that you said the boat is running smoothly at current WOT (no vibrations to indicate bent blades or anything on the props) - your problem does not sound like props to me at all. I don't think you can even get a set of Bravo 3 props pitched under 22 and you will find that buying a new set of these stainless steel props is going to be very expensive.
 
I highly doubt it's the throttle linkage. Yes, you can test your theory and rev the engine in neutral, but that won't be under load. You have the exact same set up as I do and should see the same results. I may be worth a trip to your dealer for service and/or analysis.

araxton said:
I just got home, raised the outdrive (yes, original Bravo III) and verified 24P. Now I am more puzzled. What you both say is what I have read on the topic as well. Theoretically, if I lower the pitch to 19, it would increase RPM by 1000 and put me in normal operating range. But why would my boat with same setup perform so differently?
Is my only option to purchase another prop, haul the boat, change the prop, launch and hope for better performance? Again, could there be something else going on here?
The conditions I have been running under are very low-load (half fuel, half water, two people, no other gear). I will see what the local prop-shop expert says, but it seems the prop I have is pretty standard for this setup. What other variables might cause such a difference?
Thanks so very much for your input, it is really helpful!
Al
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Thanks again everyone. I am going to start with full tuneup this weekend and see if any better results. I will discuss other options with the mechanic. Meantime, I agree, if Todd and others are running same setup with 24P, there has to be another reason for such a difference in performance. I assumed lack of fuel would show other obvious signs, but may be wrong.
If anyone has any other ideas, let me know. Otherwise, I will follow up with results as I take progressive steps - beginning with tune up.
Thanks all!
Al
 
Last fall (10/1) I posted about an apparent leak in the shower drain that the shop had found while winterizing. Based on responses to that post, I told the shop I'd deal with it later. Fast forward to this week when I was working on the toilet (ball, spring cartridge, shaft, bowl seals), and some water from the supply line leaked onto the floor, so I opened the stair lid and watched it leak onto the floor beside the sump box. I happened to have a mirror with me (changed the cap and rotor), so I looked under the bath wall, and I could not see why anything there should leak. There's no p-trap, nothing that can hold water and freeze. Went back into the head and checked the joint between the wall and floor. It didn't really look bad but I figured I had nothing to lose by re-caulking, so that's what did. After letting it sit for a day I poured some water on the floor and watched it all go into the sump box! I then dumped about a half gallon on the floor. the sump filled up, the pump kicked on and pumped it out, so now I know that's working as it should too. Gotta love those 3 buck fixes :)
 
All
Quick update on low RPM issue. I changed the fuel filter (no garbage, but cloudy fuel in old filter) and I changed the plugs and wires (one plug was bone dry with white corrosion). I didn't change the distributor or coil - hard to get to and afraid of screwing it up myself. Took the boat out and got 4100 RPM/35mph. Improvement of 5mph and about 3-4K RPM. I am having a merc cert mechanic change distributor and coil as well as run diagnostic. But, I think I am onto it and hope to get peak performance with minimal additional investment. Thanks again guys for your guidance. If not for you, I probably would have pulled the boat out and put a new lower pitch prop on it with a result of wasted time and money. It's humbling to be a novice, but I am enjoying every learning experience (have to look at it this way!).
Al
 
kilroy said:
Last fall (10/1) I posted about an apparent leak in the shower drain that the shop had found while winterizing. Based on responses to that post, I told the shop I'd deal with it later. Fast forward to this week when I was working on the toilet (ball, spring cartridge, shaft, bowl seals), and some water from the supply line leaked onto the floor, so I opened the stair lid and watched it leak onto the floor beside the sump box. I happened to have a mirror with me (changed the cap and rotor), so I looked under the bath wall, and I could not see why anything there should leak. There's no p-trap, nothing that can hold water and freeze. Went back into the head and checked the joint between the wall and floor. It didn't really look bad but I figured I had nothing to lose by re-caulking, so that's what did. After letting it sit for a day I poured some water on the floor and watched it all go into the sump box! I then dumped about a half gallon on the floor. the sump filled up, the pump kicked on and pumped it out, so now I know that's working as it should too. Gotta love those 3 buck fixes :)
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Those are, indeed, the best fixes!
 
araxton said:
All
Quick update on low RPM issue. I changed the fuel filter (no garbage, but cloudy fuel in old filter) and I changed the plugs and wires (one plug was bone dry with white corrosion). I didn't change the distributor or coil - hard to get to and afraid of screwing it up myself. Took the boat out and got 4100 RPM/35mph. Improvement of 5mph and about 3-4K RPM. I am having a merc cert mechanic change distributor and coil as well as run diagnostic. But, I think I am onto it and hope to get peak performance with minimal additional investment. Thanks again guys for your guidance. If not for you, I probably would have pulled the boat out and put a new lower pitch prop on it with a result of wasted time and money. It's humbling to be a novice, but I am enjoying every learning experience (have to look at it this way!).
Al
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The cloudy fuel in the filter came from the tank so you may have water in the fuel, especially if it wasn't put away properly or if an ethanol-fighting additive wasn't used. When you change the filter, you opened it up to allow some more fuel to get through. But chances are, it's going to clog again. I would dump the fuel on of this new filter and check again, or siphon some out of the tank, to be sure. I would also do this first, before changing any parts out.
 
Great advise Dennis. Ran a couple hours this weekend. I'll check the new filter. I'm at a quarter tank, so now's the time if I do need to remove the old fuel before gassing back up. I have the boat at a local yard now and think I can do this on-site. I'll look into it.
Thanks again for your responses - it is really very helpful.
Al
 
Can someone tell me which Marinco pigtail or just plain adapter to buy? I want to plug my boat into household current to charge the batteries.
 
beckee said:
Can someone tell me which Marinco pigtail or just plain adapter to buy? I want to plug my boat into household current to charge the batteries.
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Assuming nothing has been changed from the way it would have been from the factory, you have a 30-amp set-up on the boat. So you just need a 30-amp to 15-amp adapter. Any local marine retailer should either have this or be able to get it for you in a day or two. Did you thoroughly check throughout the boat to see if you maybe already have one?
 
Anyone have any luck removing the speakers from the panels in the v-berth? Are they attached from the inside?
 
kilroy said:
Anyone have any luck removing the speakers from the panels in the v-berth? Are they attached from the inside?
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The grilles are just press-fit into place - carefully pry them out - often you can just do this with your fingers. The speakers are then simply screwed in.
 
Update on my low RPM situation. Though new wires and plugs made a difference, seems now it was just a bandaid. I left the boat at marina for mechanic to look into further (corrected from WOT of 3600 RPM to 4100....still needed to find out cause of not reaching 4600-4800). I am told water in the cylinders (which I didn't note when changing plugs, though I had one plug with heavy carbon buildup - looked dry and rusted. They will begin tearing down the engine to determine anything from head gasket to crack in block. Any way I look at it....likely big bucks.
I just bought this boat a month ago and thought I was being very thorough and prudent. I looked at many boats, did a lot of research and finally decided on the 260 Sundancer. I took it out twice with the broker and thought it ran well (but didn't realize 3800 RPM was underperforming due to inexperience and naivety). I spent hours checking all systems on the boat and looking into every crevice. I had a mechanical survey done, but when I received his report I noted how shallow it was and that he had not even driven the boat or looked at the outdrive out of the water. I told the mechanic I had expected more and he told me not to pay him then....so I didn't. Still, the boat seemed in great shape and I bought it....
Trying now to have a good attitude about the engine and prepared for whatever it takes to make it right. Then I plan to keep it right and to enjoy every moment on it that I can.
Thanks again to all who offered advice along the way. I'll follow up again to let you all know how much my trust and inexperience ended up costing me.
Al
 
Al, Hate to hear about water in your block. The same thing happened to me when I bought my boat. Thought I was getting a really good deal as the price was way below market average. And thought I was very careful in inspecting the boat, but....In my case, it was exhaust manifolds that were on their last leg, which didn't show up in the mechanical survey. So just a couple of months into ownership, one rusted thru and my engine hydro-locked and that was all she wrote. Hopefully, your engine can be repaired and you won't have to replace like I did. I will tell you that the upside for me was that I got a brand new engine with 90 more hp and way more torque, which dramatically changed the performance of my boat. Most importantly, three years later I still look in my engine compartment with pride and every time I push on the throttle I have the satisfied feeling of knowing I have a powerplant that I can depend on completely. Overall, for me I ended up paying what I should have for the model and year of my boat. It seems that even with low hours, a 12 year old engine in a harsh marine environment, unless it has been especially pampered and cared for, is more often near the end of its useful life than not. I know none of this helps you in your current situation, but just wanted to say we have all been there at some point.
 
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Thanks Rab. Good to know I'm not the only one. Trying to keep a positive spin on it. I guess it's all in the price of boating.
Al
 
Does anyone know what size the riser extensions are on the 7.4l. Would like to order exhast manifold but won't be able to make it to the boat to measure.

Thanks
 
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