kilroy
Member
Nice job!
The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread
- Thread starter Nehalennia
- Start date
Dennis...great job. The Sea Deck looks nice also. I have a windlass but dont have the foot switches. How hard is it to add those? I like the cleat you added too and may do the same. Right now I have to tie it off on the side cleats which works but not well. Thanks for sharing.Just finished this up yesterday. 6 gauge wires to the unit - pretty easy to run. The only think not "off the shelf" here is the abrasion guard between the windlass and the anchor roller. I decided to use a flush mount cleat, instead of a regular cleat. I had bought an abrasion guard about 3 years ago with the anticipation of doing the windlass. So instead, I just hand cut one out of 1/4" starboard and rounded-over the edges, along with countersinking the holes.
It's relatively easy to run. I drew power from the battery switch, which for me is in the compartment just inside the port-side walk-thru transom door. I dropped down into the bilge (I already have the starboard side wall of under-sink storage area removed - removing the aft wall takes about 2 minutes), added the main breaker for the windlass, then followed the steering cable and punched a fish tape through the silicone into the area behind the cubby that is near the driver's seat - it comes out by just removing a few screws. There's lot's of room back there. Next, I pushed a fish tape (I was using the expandable, fiberglass rod type) from the cabin, behind the head and into the "spacious" cubby area by the driver's feet. After that, it was as easy as removing the starboard side, v-berth "back rest" (3 screws). I ran the wires along the rest of the wires through to the anchor locker area with help by removing the speaker.
In my case, my project was MUCH more involved as I was also repairing rot on the underside of the anchor locker deck. But simply chasing wires is easy.
Thanks, Ron. I'm really pleased with how it came out. I used the Plasdeck stuff that I got from TT Marine. It feels like softly-sanded wood - really nice.
Foot switches are easy - they just get wired in parallel with your dash switch. I located my contactor (solenoid) in the area behind the cubby by the driver's seat. I'm not sure where the factory does it - probably either in the bilge or behind the MDP (check the wiring diagram in the manual to be sure, if you don't already know). Just Tee into the existing, small gauge Up/Down wires and the small gauge power wire. Double check your windlass wiring , but that's how it was spec'd for mine. I ended up just using a splitter-type spade connector directly off the solenoid - one to the dash switch, one to the foot switches.
I'm surprised you don't have a center bow cleat? I had one (not a pull up like I do now) and it was that way from the factory with an anchor roller and a hawse pipe.
Oh, I see. I wasn't paying attention well enough to what Ron wrote... you guys both HAVE windlasses already, but not a center cleat. It just makes sense (at least to me) to have a center cleat with a windlass - I'm surprised Sea Ray didn't install one. Maybe the factory windlass is dimensionally too large and doesn't allow enough room?
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Nice work Dennis. I like the flexidek idea.
KevinC
Well-Known Member
I added a windlass this spring and it was not too bad on my 2003 260. I documented fairly well with pictures. If anyone is interested I will put together a post showing it all. I just need to finish the foot switches, but I pre-wired for them.
I also learned that shopping the components is important as there was a wide variety in pricing for the same equipment.
Westie
Active Member
- Oct 16, 2008
- 1,109
- Boat Info
- 2001 260 Sundancer towed with the power of an IFORCE V8
- Engines
- 7.4 L Bravo III
Here's what the factor windlass looks like. I think there might be room to put a cleat up there to the left of the rub pad.
araxton
Member
New question from the new guy...
I bought the 2001 Sundancer 260 a few weeks back, brought it home and have run it quite a bit since. Runs great, find trimming easy (was originally concerned), and love the boat! Problem is, I am only getting max RPM of about 3300-3400 and max speed barely reaching 30mph. I'm not looking to go fast, but want to know engine and setup are running as efficiently as possible. Also, want to cruise long distance at 23-25mph and seems like this might be pushing it too hard with a WOT speed of only 29-30mph. Am I missing something obvious. Again, boat seems to run great otherwise.
Thanks for any feedback.
Al
I bought the 2001 Sundancer 260 a few weeks back, brought it home and have run it quite a bit since. Runs great, find trimming easy (was originally concerned), and love the boat! Problem is, I am only getting max RPM of about 3300-3400 and max speed barely reaching 30mph. I'm not looking to go fast, but want to know engine and setup are running as efficiently as possible. Also, want to cruise long distance at 23-25mph and seems like this might be pushing it too hard with a WOT speed of only 29-30mph. Am I missing something obvious. Again, boat seems to run great otherwise.
Thanks for any feedback.
Al
rabyers1
Member
Al - Welcome to CSR. Your numbers are way low and could be due to a variety or combination of reasons. I would say that those performance numbers should not have gotten by the surveyor / sea trial phase of your purchase a few weeks ago. You should be able to cruise at about 22-23 mph at 3300 rpm and you should be getting WOT RPM of closer to 4,600 to 4,800, with a max speed in the high 30's with your 5.7.
rabyers1
Member
Kevin - Did you install the Lewmar 700 as Dennis did or a different windlass? Would love to see some pictures of your install.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
I run and cruise at between 34-3500 RPM and 23 knots (~28 mph). My WOT is 4600 and I have 24P props. Verify you have good plugs and wires, water/fuel separator, clean bottom and no dings or issues with your props.
araxton
Member
Thanks for the quick feedback Todd and Rab! I knew I was coming up short, but didn't realize by how much. As mentioned, the engine sounds and runs great - no hesitation so don't believe water in the fuel or bad plugs (changed recently) and the bottom is clean - just put in two weeks ago. Also, compression was very good when tested. Also, no nicks on props - perfect condition.
I just called the mechanic from the yard where I bought the boat (have been working with him on a few other issues prior to the sale). He said it is almost 100% certain to be the prop pitch. I am pulling the boat this friday and will get the numbers on the prop. He said once I do this, he will contact the prop shop and explain what I have and how it is performing. I just can't believe that a few degrees in pitch will make a 1000 RPM difference. I also can't believe someone would put a prop on the boat which seems so mismatched for it's performance.
Does this make sense to you guys? Or is there something else I should be looking at too? Really appreciate your feedback. It's great to have found this site to turn to for experience with similar boat and mechanics...don't know where else I could get such meaningful response.
Al
I just called the mechanic from the yard where I bought the boat (have been working with him on a few other issues prior to the sale). He said it is almost 100% certain to be the prop pitch. I am pulling the boat this friday and will get the numbers on the prop. He said once I do this, he will contact the prop shop and explain what I have and how it is performing. I just can't believe that a few degrees in pitch will make a 1000 RPM difference. I also can't believe someone would put a prop on the boat which seems so mismatched for it's performance.
Does this make sense to you guys? Or is there something else I should be looking at too? Really appreciate your feedback. It's great to have found this site to turn to for experience with similar boat and mechanics...don't know where else I could get such meaningful response.
Al
rabyers1
Member
Al, do you have the Mercury Bravo 3 Duoprop outdrive on your boat? That is the standard unit that was installed on these boats at the factory. If so, your props should be 22 or 24 pitch stainless steel. The pitch is stamped on the props.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
1" pitch equals 200 RPMs roughly. If you increase the pitch you lower the RPMs and vice versa. You're set up is the same as mine, so yes, let us know what your prop is.
I verified mine is 24"P.
I verified mine is 24"P.
araxton
Member
I just got home, raised the outdrive (yes, original Bravo III) and verified 24P. Now I am more puzzled. What you both say is what I have read on the topic as well. Theoretically, if I lower the pitch to 19, it would increase RPM by 1000 and put me in normal operating range. But why would my boat with same setup perform so differently?
Is my only option to purchase another prop, haul the boat, change the prop, launch and hope for better performance? Again, could there be something else going on here?
The conditions I have been running under are very low-load (half fuel, half water, two people, no other gear). I will see what the local prop-shop expert says, but it seems the prop I have is pretty standard for this setup. What other variables might cause such a difference?
Thanks so very much for your input, it is really helpful!
Al
Is my only option to purchase another prop, haul the boat, change the prop, launch and hope for better performance? Again, could there be something else going on here?
The conditions I have been running under are very low-load (half fuel, half water, two people, no other gear). I will see what the local prop-shop expert says, but it seems the prop I have is pretty standard for this setup. What other variables might cause such a difference?
Thanks so very much for your input, it is really helpful!
Al
araxton
Member
PS - what about throttle linkage? Not sure how to even check with fuel injected engine, but maybe my throttle lever isn't actually opening the throttle all the way?? If I rev the engine all the way in neutral, and see that the RPMs still max out at 3500, would this indicate linkage problem? Conversely, if I rev to 4800 RPM in neutral, would it indicate for certain that it is a problem with the prop or something related to the load on the engine? Just trying to cover possibilities before I start spending money to resolve. Thanks again!
