Official 280 Sundancer Thread

susanandlance said:
I lube mine 1-2 times a year, and it gets mercruiser spline grease, not regular grease. You can get the merc spline grease at NAPA.
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I imagine it is important to use spline grease on the coupler but can this grease be used on the gimbal bearing, steering, etc. Practically speaking how important is it to use all the different specified greases and lubes. If you go by the book you need 3 different grease guns and 2 or 3 different lubes. Looking for real life advice.
 
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I only use spline grease for the eng. coupler, I use lubrimatic trailer wheel bearing grease for the other fittings as well as the trailer bearings. I've used it for many years and really like the way it protects. I even use it for the auto/truck, frontend fittings.
 
Would anyone have a picture of the discharge seacock location for the waste system? My boat didn't come with a macerator and i'm doing the install myself. I have all the parts but don't know the exact location that the factory placed the seacock. Sea Ray customer support has been helpful but the location is not clear. Any help would be appreciated.
 
JJ Chones said:
Would anyone have a picture of the discharge seacock location for the waste system? My boat didn't come with a macerator and i'm doing the install myself. I have all the parts but don't know the exact location that the factory placed the seacock. Sea Ray customer support has been helpful but the location is not clear. Any help would be appreciated.
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From the 2003 owners manual, Pages 14 & 19, http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/_23_618201091036AM.pdf
 
I'll have to look again. Thought there was just a shade that only works in the closed position.
 
The screen works just like the shade. I believe it pulls from the opposite side.

Russ
 
I brought a Extreme bilge heater.... How can I run the power cord from the engine bay to the 110 outlet at the helm. I don't want to hard wire it... I thought about drilling a hole and running the cord that way. I can't close the engine bay with the power cord running out of it!!!! Help!!! lol
 
russg said:
The screen works just like the shade. I believe it pulls from the opposite side.

Russ
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Careful with that screen/shade hatch contraption... Dont let either side go, it will fly back and the plastic latch may (llikely) smash. I saw a young one do that on a friends boat, by accident. They are EXPENSIVE to replace if that becomes necessary.
 
Fun_in_the_Sun said:
I brought a Extreme bilge heater.... How can I run the power cord from the engine bay to the 110 outlet at the helm. I don't want to hard wire it... I thought about drilling a hole and running the cord that way. I can't close the engine bay with the power cord running out of it!!!! Help!!! lol
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There is an easy way to run the wire.

Remove the lower aft starboard speaker. You will see a hole in the deck about 8" in diameter. This is a service access for the the top of the holding tank. You can now run a wire up through the access hole, over the top of the carpet covered plywood divider and down into the space under the wet bar. You can now leave the wet bar door open and run the cable around to the helm 110 plug when you want to use it. When you don't just coil up the end and leave it under the wet bar.

If you change your mind and want to hard wire it; pop the upper starboard speaker off. As you look forward you will see a fiberglass gusset. Depending on how your VHF was installed you may see a hole in the gusset with the VHF cable running through it. There should be enough space to fish the heater wire (without plug) through there. You may have to clean off caulking. If not you can drill a hole easily enough. Now pop off the 110 plug and remove the box from the cockpit side. Reach up and grab the heater wire. Now bring the wire into the box and wire it to the plug's hot, neutral and ground. The heater is on a thermostat so it won't go on unless the temperature requires it. Now when you put everything back, don't forget to goop where the wire goes through the gusset.

Henry
 
Henry you are the man... Thanks a bunch for the great advice this is exactly what I need to know! I will down at the marina this week.

Happy Holidays:thumbsup:
 
Anyone who winterizes their engines, have any low buck ideas, how to keep the condensation off the engines during the winter? That 300 watt bilge heater looks expensive to run
 
scootdogg said:
where do you have your bilge heater installed? i am ordering a large xtreme heater tomorrow....
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Mine is installed on a piece of Starboard on top of the stringers right between the engines. A good central mounting location is tough in this bilge. Trying to keep the heater in the low center without hindering "climb in" access to the bilge is the key.
 
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JimFromMD said:
Careful with that screen/shade hatch contraption... Dont let either side go, it will fly back and the plastic latch may (llikely) smash. I saw a young one do that on a friends boat, by accident. They are EXPENSIVE to replace if that becomes necessary.
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This happened to ours this past summer...actually a blanket caught it and broke it off. The good news is OceanAir sent me a couple handles / latches for free! Here is the contact info:

Oceanair Marine Limited (US)
91 Manchester Valley Road
PO Box 1727
Manchester Center
VT 05255
USA
Tel. +1 802 362 5258

A very nice young lady named Melissa helped me out.
 
My 110 AC outlets are both dead. Tryed resetting GFI in head, no dice. Any ideas on this one? Thanks
 
scoflaw said:
My 110 AC outlets are both dead. Tryed resetting GFI in head, no dice. Any ideas on this one? Thanks
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Your boat has 6 (six) 110 volt outlets, including two GFCI outlets that each feed two additional outlets.

One GFCI outlet is in the medicine cabinet in the head and one GFCI outleet is in the galley behind the slide below the cabinet above the counter top.

Do any of your 6 outlets work? Which GFCI did you reset?
 
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